Builds DINGO- 60FZJ-UTE LS3 EROD (PROVEN CA SMOG) (2 Viewers)

[TonyP]

Have you seen Line-X Ultra in person? It isn't a cheap looking coating like a platidip'd subprime-loaned Nissan Altima. It looks quite good and is literally bulletproof. Why spend five figures on a paint job that WILL get pinstriped when you can have a good looking coating that has a warranty?

 

[White Stripe]

Have you seen Line-X Ultra in person? It isn't a cheap looking coating like a platidip'd subprime-loaned Nissan Altima. It looks quite good and is literally bulletproof. Why spend five figures on a paint job that WILL get pinstriped when you can have a good looking coating that has a warranty?

Mainly its the rust problem that can occur underneath the bedliner, as well as if a area is damaged its difficult to repair with bedliner on it. You can't as easily hammer a panel straight and then bondo and paint/blend. But that does look nice.

 

[TonyP]

Epoxy primer followed by linex, no rust issues.

 

[Willard]

Epoxy primer followed by linex, no rust issues.

Have you seen Line-X Ultra in person? It isn't a cheap looking coating like a platidip'd subprime-loaned Nissan Altima. It looks quite good and is literally bulletproof. Why spend five figures on a paint job that WILL get pinstriped when you can have a good looking coating that has a warranty?

I have seen it in person many times, there are a number of people that have this. Yes it is tough, but figuring that this build will be over 60K when done, (do not kid yourself, 20k+ could go into the box alone) why not get a proper paint job. Call it was you like, it looks more professional. Want tough go with CARC paint and call it a day, at least if you ever try to repaint it is a lot easier to remove.
Ask the Line-X guys how to remove the paint.

 

[Willard]

So Jason.
Thinking about the rear box. What are the plans? Doors roll up are super cool, are you doing solar or any power, shower system? sleeping platform or?????

 

[White Stripe]

Epoxy primer followed by linex, no rust issues.

From what I understand is that epoxy primer seals the metal from oxygen and moisture getting to it. However older toyotas used spot weld joints that are poorly sealed and that by now have some rust between the spot welds. The primer likely wont go in between the spot welds. Moisture can work it's way up through the inside of the panel on the opposite side of the spot weld seam and allow the spot weld joint to continue to rust. It then can creep under the bedliner and rust. It will not be noticeable for some time because the bedliner is thick and doesn't lift easily like paint until a large area is rusted. If u keep it in the garage in a dry environment likely it will be fine for many years. But drive it more often where damp corrosives from the road mist up into the spotwelds then I think rust will accelerate.

 

[TonyP]

I have seen it in person many times, there are a number of people that have this. Yes it is tough, but figuring that this build will be over 60K when done, (do not kid yourself, 20k+ could go into the box alone) why not get a proper paint job. Call it was you like, it looks more professional. Want tough go with CARC paint and call it a day, at least if you ever try to repaint it is a lot easier to remove.
Ask the Line-X guys how to remove the paint.

They generally bake the parts to remove the coating. You can blast or grind it as well.
Either way, different strokes for different folks. But I wouldn't know anything about a high(ish) dollar Land Cruiser build

From what I understand is that epoxy primer seals the metal from oxygen and moisture getting to it. However older toyotas used spot weld joints that are poorly sealed and that by now have some rust between the spot welds. The primer likely wont go in between the spot welds. Moisture can work it's way up through the inside of the panel on the opposite side of the spot weld seam and allow the spot weld joint to continue to rust. It then can creep under the bedliner and rust. It will not be noticeable for some time because the bedliner is thick and doesn't lift easily like paint until a large area is rusted. If u keep it in the garage in a dry environment likely it will be fine for many years. But drive it more often where damp corrosives from the road mist up into the spotwelds then I think rust will accelerate.

Steel rusts in the presence of water and oxygen. Assuming the body is blasted and coated properly,(as I'm doing as well in the Troopy), having a proper base of epoxy SHOULD eliminate any chance of rust forming.

All this said, I'm certainly not an expert. Just did a bit of research for my personal, current, build.

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

@TonyP exactly!

I prefer the textured/industrial look over paint. I plan to use this rig and spending 2K on a cheap paint or 15K on a nice paint job is asinine and a waste of money, IMO.

As far as rust... The entire rig will be soda blasted inside and out, neutralized, 3 coats of BASF epoxy inside and out, underbelly LineX and top coated with Noxudol (cavity wax- inside of frame as well) Inside floor will Lizard skinned, 80 Mil Dynamat (or similar) and then a layer of Thermozite. If the damn thing rusts after that.... It was meant to be and for the cost these guys around here are wanting for a decent paint job I can buy another rust free complete CA 60 and start over and still be money ahead.

As far as repairs to LineX; on this rig especially.... Buy a new panel and shoot it with LineX.. After the chop the only portion of the body that is not easily replaced it to roof and back of cab. Everything else bolts on. If either of those are damged to the extent of repair the rig would more than likely be rolled and totaled anyway..... Great thing about LineX is there is NO tiger striping potential and blending/matching is not an issue to make it look original after a repair.

To each their own, my rig, my call... if you don't like it ... too bad.... and quit watching this build...

Cheers

J

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

I've used roll on liners on a few rigs now and while a decent product it is no where near the product that LineX or Rhino are. A couple years back I saw this Raptor at SEMA and loved it. Couldn't believe a liner material could look that good. But once again.. to each their own.

Funny thing is that 3 of the 4 people that were potential buyers before I pulled it off the table wanted a LineX finish.

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

So Jason.
Thinking about the rear box. What are the plans? Doors roll up are super cool, are you doing solar or any power, shower system? sleeping platform or?????

They keep morphing.. Once I get closer I'll be bringing in my resident electrical engineer @indycole to set up the entire electrical system for the box and the accessories (blender in the back seat and cooler box) not to mention a plethora of lights and other items. Looks like I may need to use 3 or 4 of my 8 bank SwitchPro modules to run all the goodies. Good thing I bought 10 of those... HA!

I'm looking at building my own aluminum RTT similar to an AluCab or Eezi-Awn Stealth. Then my TT 270 batwing with walls and floors and a 2M straight awning.

J

 

[White Stripe]

They generally bake the parts to remove the coating. You can blast or grind it as well.
Either way, different strokes for different folks. But I wouldn't know anything about a high(ish) dollar Land Cruiser build



Steel rusts in the presence of water and oxygen. Assuming the body is blasted and coated properly,(as I'm doing as well in the Troopy), having a proper base of epoxy SHOULD eliminate any chance of rust forming.

All this said, I'm certainly not an expert. Just did a bit of research for my personal, current, build.

While blasting will remove external rust, the rust between spot welds can't be removed by blasting. You have to drill out the spot welds, separate the panels, remove the rust, then weld back together. I'm not a expert at body work either. And I'm not trying to bash the build here, just have a productive technical discussion, which i assume is why the OP has a build thread. But if he just wants people to shut up and watch then I can do that. I have seen a lot of older cruisers rust pretty bad underneath bedliner. So it makes me sceptical. A pillars seams, and the roof drip rail seams on a 60 love to rust out. Chopping half the truck off does get rid of some typical areas of rust.

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

While blasting will remove external rust, the rust between spot welds can't be removed by blasting. You have to drill out the spot welds, separate the panels, remove the rust, then weld back together. I'm not a expert at body work either. And I'm not trying to bash the build here, just have a productive technical discussion, which i assume is why the OP has a build thread. But if he just wants people to shut up and watch then I can do that. I have seen a lot of older cruisers rust pretty bad underneath bedliner. So it makes me sceptical. A pillars seams, and the roof drip rail seams on a 60 love to rust out. Chopping half the truck off does get rid of some typical areas of rust.

Rust is a bitch no matter what you do. I've cut out more rust and repaired/replaced more panels than most. I'm not worried about the rust if it ever develops, anymore it's "typical maintenance" for a 60 for me. If it does occur... I'll deal with it just like if it were painted. Same process, just a tad more laborious if its in a non-removable panel. Otherwise it's 10X faster and much cheaper to buy a replacement door or fender and LineX it again. Not to mention to not have to deal with oxidation and matching paint.

 

[Willard]

They keep morphing.. Once I get closer I'll be bringing in my resident electrical engineer @indycole to set up the entire electrical system for the box and the accessories (blender in the back seat and cooler box) not to mention a plethora of lights and other items. Looks like I may need to use 3 or 4 of my 8 bank SwitchPro modules to run all the goodies. Good thing I bought 10 of those... HA!

I'm looking at building my own aluminum RTT similar to an AluCab or Eezi-Awn Stealth. Then my TT 270 batwing with walls and floors and a 2M straight awning.

J

Nice! Hard top RTT has advantages as you can mount solar panels to them and thus you would not need to have a portable unit.
Do not rule out the Bundutop or Maggiolina popup style either like the Extreme. I like the crank style better but electric would be nice (one more thing to break though). Having that rear window has it's advantages for airflow etc, although having the height that the Stealth or AluCab as is nice.

I am interested to see how the box plays out. I am sure you have a laundry list of things just for it.

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

Another good morning on Dingo... Got the cab capped off.

J

 

[gbogh]

Looks good J! I forget, were you going to use glass from a donor or were you going to do something custom?

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

Looks good J! I forget, were you going to use glass from a donor or were you going to do something custom?

Custom glass for the back.

J

 

[cruisermatt]

Sorry if I missed it but what is the thinkness steel you used for that? What the technique for getting a thick edge for the window gasket? Do you add some sort of OEM style ribbing on the inside ?

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

Matt,

I used 16 gauge. It's a bit thicker than the stock panels, but I concentrate the heat on the 16 gauge and wash the weld into the thinner. Hope that makes sense.

I'm using a locking gasket from TrimLok and then urethane seal it all as well. 3m 08693

https://d1y6jrbzotnyjg.cloudfront.net/V3MSA/88f8f10c961e42838b4704c53b83d291/V1/6a305a3a10e6474bbe11e815cb35ab0b/ShortForm-Generic-480p-16-9-1409173089793-rpcbe5.mp4?Expires=1561864679&Signature=JmKDUyjr-bngt8IsVHFvf0UNL1HZtDGd5EJiAIQ~7KOchtmpO8woPTWaDt26JRsx-4dzbQ7pOz4NJ4lzZdK2~LkD51FUElxbOOUJLaYEv6jr6H8M8ECfoilZgEJCgdusKvkq5l8BmM-sWCYD-TJ~pkOVEQAGYm1Eje4sKY54tKI_&Key-Pair-Id=APKAJ62XWKZ35EOVO4XA

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

Since I've had such great luck with the RoadVision LEDs on my bumpers lights, I decided to use them for this build.

Tail, brake and back ups

Marker Lamps

Also ordered Deutsch waterproof solid pin connectors for all items in the box and any exterior component on the rig overall. Flex weave loom TESA friction tape.

All aux. and driving LEDs will be TruckLite (military spec headlights) and Baja Designs bars, spots and floods.

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

Got the bed base material cut and laid out. It's upside down by the way...

J