Difficulty Starting Engine (1 Viewer)

[Splangy]

Just saw the photos. Definitely not an OEM carb.

That “gas filter” vacuum fitting in front of your carb has all three ports broken off and is probably a major vacuum leak, too

 

[hobbes]

If you can find it, I’d recommend using “pure gas” while you're getting to know your new FJ40. Once you settle in, you can try switching to the new ethanol based fuels.

Just be be clear what people are saying, the gas filter isn’t a “fuel filter for liquid gasoline”. It’s a vacuum port on top of your intake right in front of your carb. You can seal it up with a bit of JB Weld for now. I believe part 90345-51005 is a permanent factory plug that can be had for about $3. The replacement gas filter would either be 90917-11004 or 90917-11012, but those are no longer available (NLA) and since you aren't using it I’d just plug it. See links below.

TOYOTA LAND CRUISER 40 55FJ40L-KJA - TOOL-ENGINE-FUEL - MANIFOLD | Japan Parts EU

TOYOTA LAND CRUISER 40 55FJ40L-KJA , MANIFOLD

www.japan-parts.eu

TOYOTA LAND CRUISER 40 55FJ40L-KJA - TOOL-ENGINE-FUEL - VACUUM PIPING | Japan Parts EU

TOYOTA LAND CRUISER 40 55FJ40L-KJA , VACUUM PIPING

www.japan-parts.eu

90345-51005 Genuine Toyota Plug

ToyotaPartsDeal.com offers the great deal for genuine Toyota parts 90345-51005 (9034551005) Plug for $3.81. All parts are backed by the Toyota's warranty.

www.toyotapartsdeal.com

Also, it looks like you are missing a grounding strap from your starter to the frame. I can see the remnants of it, I think. While not affecting your starting now, it could have electrical grounding ramifications down the road.

Switch to the newer style starter when your current starter wears out.

 

[MOC]

Carburetor doesn't look stock.

To better understand how and why some of these things work.... Take the air cleaner off and have someone sit inside the truck and push down on the gas pedal, and look what happens inside the carb (with the engine off). You should see a small amount of gas squirted into the barrel of the carburetor by the accelerator pump, and you should be able to find where the throttle linkage hooks into the plunger that pumps that fuel into the barrel.

This squirt of fuel is adding gas to help it start. Too much can prevent it from properly vaporizing, I guess, somehow (never really understood that part myself, just know through experience it can happen).

Have them pull on the choke cable. You should see a plate inside the throat of the carburetor close, restricting the flow of air through the carburetor. This forces the air to speed up and be more turbulent as it goes though the barrel of the carburetor, and thus evaporator more fuel into the air. Because you don't have a stock carburetor, check if there is a choke on it, and that it's closing when the cable is pulled. (I don't have a stock carb, and don't have the choke cable connected, and it just doesn't start under 35, ever, but without the top, it's too cold for me too).

I don't see the coil in any of your pictures. I do see the starter, with a black/yellow wire going to the starter and a brown one hanging loose near it....

Do a search for "ignition coil ballast resistor" on google.... Apparently, with points, to make them last longer, they limited the voltage going through them? (I upgraded to electronic ignition pretty immediately after buying my FJ40 and have little interest in this issue personally). To help starting, there would be an additional wire from the starter (really, from the ignition switch to the starter and then to the coil) to provide full 12v to the coil (i.e. bypassing the resistor, more voltage to the coil, more spark).

The coil is an aftermarket Accel as you can see in the picture. I'll definitely check to make sure the accelerator pump is working and that the choke is restricting airflow into the barrel. I may not be getting full power to the starter which, as Mark Jennings pointed out, would prevent sufficient airflow through the carb to vaporize the fuel. Assuming the carb is working OK, I'll focus on sufficient power to the starter and coil and maybe a lighter weight oil to allow the starter to turn faster and increase airflow through the carb.
I really appreciate your thoughtful response.

 

[MOC]

Just saw the photos. Definitely not an OEM carb.

That “gas filter” vacuum fitting in front of your carb has all three ports broken off and is probably a major vacuum leak, too

This weekend I'll check those ports to see if there's a leak. What should those ports look like? Should I be looking for a gas filter vacuum fitting to replace what I've got or am I better off replacing the entire carb?

 

[OhioFJ]

This weekend I'll check those ports to see if there's a leak. What should those ports look like? Should I be looking for a gas filter vacuum fitting to replace what I've got or am I better off replacing the entire carb?

Looks like this:

It's not on the carb itself, but on the engine manifold. Maybe just plug it with something while you are sorting the issues out as others have said.

 

[MOC]

Not starting after the engine is at operating temp and sitting is a heat soak condition. Ethanol laced gas is a big cause of that...has a lower boiling point (higher vapor pressure). Mid 70’s had a fan to cool it down...lots of Mud articles on that subject. However, this isn’t usually an issue in cold weather....but you never know. And winter fuel blends are of a higher volatility...for better cold starts.

Do you have an electric or mechanical fuel pump? If electric, just wait a few seconds with the ignition on before starting...if mechanical (OEM)...it’ll crank for a bit.....to refill the float bowl.

Basically...heat soak isn’t a flooding issue but one of no fuel...unless the the float bowl vents to the carb...then gas can boil over into the carburetor and flood it out. Generally, 10% ethanol fuel needs to operate at higher pressures to keep it from boiling off. Your carburetor is an atmospheric device.

I’m sure after you live with a 40 for a few decades....you’ll figure out its quirks...say a prayer, run it’s dash....tell it it’s a good Cruiser....and drive it off into the sunset

....Merry Christmas

I'm definitely using 10% ethanol gas since that's all I can find in the Chicago suburbs. Not sure about the fuel pump but will check and try turning the ignition on for a second before turning over. If the accelerator pump is working, wouldn't that mean the problem isn't heat soak (unless the float bowl vents to the carb) ? I think what you're saying in your other comments about oil weight is that a heavier oil prevents the starter from turning as easily which then reduces airflow through the carb and reduces vaporization of the fuel. I don't know what weight the PO put in but I'll change it with a 15w oil to see if that helps. Thanks, Mark. I'm constantly amazed at the knowledge of this group and am learning a lot.

 

[MOC]

Looks like this:
View attachment 2513939

It's not on the carb itself, but on the engine manifold. Maybe just plug it with something while you are sorting the issues out as others have said.

You're absolutely right! My ports look nothing like that picture and are probably a significant vacuum loss. That vacuum loss would reduce airflow through the carb barrel, right? Thank you.

 

[hobbes]

If your starter is turning slow and your battery is good, that’s probably a grounding issue as I mentioned above. You should have a ground strap running from your starter bolt to the frame where I circled in red. You could just use a cheap negative battery cable from a parts store to get by.

 

[Mark Jennings]

Looks like I got your cruisers older brother....and I also run an aftermarket carburetor....my old F runs a Rochester B series. That old single barrel keeps it running like a champ. I’ve owned this truck since 1992 and that carburetor came with it. We did a frame off in 2017 through 2019. When I rebuilt the engine....I just rebuilt the carb with it...that’s what I bought it with, that’s what I’ll keep.

Bee good and enjoy the quirks of LC ownership.