Differential Pinion Shaft Lock Bolt Extractor Kit for Toyota (1 Viewer)

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Hi all:

Do they make an "extractor kit" for Toyota? When attempting to pull the rear axle, my pin that locks the pinion gear shaft into spider gear housing broke. It looks like there are still a couple of threads remaining. I found a kit for exactly such a problem at http://www.etoolcart.com/fabbri-differential-pinion-shaft-lock-bolt-extractor-kit.aspx . But I was looking for one that is designed for Toyota vehicles as I wanted to make sure that the "drill guides" would be threaded for my application. Thanks for any help.

Matthew
P1040839.JPG
 
No, there is no Toyota tool for this to my knowledge.
 
Can you drill a hole in the middle and then use a counter drill, it should be not that tight:

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There have been a few threads over the years of people who have simply beat the pin out, knocking out a small section of the carrier. it is nerve-wracking to say the least, but I have never seen a carrier destroyed beyond safe re-use from it.

Now, if you break off an easy-out trying to draw out what's left of a pin that never should have broken in the first place, then all bets are off on what the easy-out would do to the carrier.

Best

Mark A.

www.marksoffroad.net
 
Hi mb,

If it was me doing it I think I would buy the long ⅛ drill or get one from an industrial tool supplier.
Make a bush drill guide from a grade 4 Toyota bolt and drill ⅛ hole through the length of the bolt. A 10mm bolt length would be fine, the thread is 8mmx1.25 pretty standard on a LC. Use your drilled bolt as guide to drill a ⅛ hole in the remains of the pin. At least ½ inch of depth.
Then take ⅛ piece of drill rod about 6 or so inches long( you could use the other end of you long drill bit( non business end))
Clean it good and use some 638 locktite and glue the ⅛ rod into the broken pin. Be very care not to use too much 638. It only sets in the absence of air so any spillage does really matter too much.
You will have removed you drilling guide bolt before putting the drill rod in the hole with the 638.
That stuff is very strong and you may be able to turn the broken part out by turning the drill rod.
If the pin is bent in the hole then it is a different story. Did the head of the come out easily or did you torque on it and it broke? If it came out easily then the remains of the pin is probably loose and the 638 trick will likely work. In other words the the pin was broken or near broken before you touched it.

Hope this helps.

Thanks jb
 
I use a 3 inch piece of 7018 welding rod to stick to the remains. Zap it for about half a second and twirl it out. If it breaks off zap it longer. Be sure to ground at the carrier so you don't leave an arc trace on the bearing rollers.
 
I use a 3 inch piece of 7018 welding rod to stick to the remains. Zap it for about half a second and twirl it out. If it breaks off zap it longer. Be sure to ground at the carrier so you don't leave an arc trace on the bearing rollers.

this was how i got mine out.
 
I used the broken bolt top as my drill guide. Drilled with drill press. Then used angle drill head attachment with either drill bit and ez- out on one, reverse drill bit on another.
I have had two broken ones. Both on 74 axles.
Kept the broken top for future use.
 
I got mine out with an easy out.. drilled a small hole, carefully put the easy out in and it came right out...
 
You would be shocked how many broken bolts come right out using a left handed drill bit.
 
Tapped with a hammer over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over until this came out:

IMG_1340.JPG

Well, the cup came out as a different part of the procedure but the pin...eventually it all dropped out of the hole.
 
2x on the left-handed drill bits. Always my first go-to in such cases. A little Kroil wouldn't hurt either.
 
Wow I don't know if I have ever seen (4) pieces come out. 2 or 3 at most. You might have set a record. Congrats!
 

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