Different Hi-lift jacks (1 Viewer)

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canyoneer

canyoneer

Joined
Sep 19, 2005
Threads
17
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83
Location
Nor Cal
What's the difference -- performance-wise -- between the red Hi-lift jacks that are solid cast iron and the black ones that used some pressed steel? Also, is a 48" model high enough to lift my 80-sries? I have a jack pad.
 
I've seen the 48" used on a lifted cruiser, seemed to work just fine. I myself ended up going with the 60" version just to over due it and have extra lifting space.
 
red is the stronger of the High Lifts, on a stock 80 the 48" will work, with much of a lift go for the 60"
 
Now, here's a real newbie question: Where's the jacking points on an 80? Are you suppoosed to lift on the bumpers? that would make the 60" more attractive. Everything else is covered by the running boards (yep -- still have 'em), and I doubt that those are built for it.
 
canyoneer said:
Now, here's a real newbie question: Where's the jacking points on an 80? Are you suppoosed to lift on the bumpers? that would make the 60" more attractive. Everything else is covered by the running boards (yep -- still have 'em), and I doubt that those are built for it.
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With a Hilift and no sliders or aftermarket bumpers the only jacking point you have is at the rear at the tow hitch. Again this is with no sliders and no after market bumpers.
 
Hi Lift claims they are the same strength.
I got the red 60. Extra length great for winching too. I used mine more around the yard than on trails (I don't get stuck...! :D )
 
Biff said:
With a Hilift and no sliders or aftermarket bumpers the only jacking point you have is at the rear at the tow hitch. Again this is with no sliders and no after market bumpers.
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Interesting. I just took my factory reciever-hitch assembly off because it's so %#%$# heavy and I don't need it. Or thought I didn't. Couldn't I bolt a heavy piece of angle-iron onto those four holes in the center of the stock rear bumper? Maybe not -- it would need a lip on its lower surface to keep the jack from sliding off it.
 
canyoneer said:
Interesting. I just took my factory reciever-hitch assembly off because it's so %#%$# heavy and I don't need it. Or thought I didn't. Couldn't I bolt a heavy piece of angle-iron onto those four holes in the center of the stock rear bumper? Maybe not -- it would need a lip on its lower surface to keep the jack from sliding off it.
Click to expand...

Not worth the risk, I would just get a pair of sliders if you plan to use the hi lift if not I wouldn't even bother with a hi lift.
 
canyoneer said:
Interesting. I just took my factory reciever-hitch assembly off because it's so %#%$# heavy and I don't need it. Or thought I didn't. Couldn't I bolt a heavy piece of angle-iron onto those four holes in the center of the stock rear bumper? Maybe not -- it would need a lip on its lower surface to keep the jack from sliding off it.
Click to expand...


I use my reciever as a handy type of protection/slider for the rear to save my stock bumper from abuse, it reduces the departur angle some, but it skids nicely! :D
 
will keep my rceiver hitch on until I have a serious rear bumper.
It does protect things nicely.
 
I have a 48" black (now red) and a 60" red (now crusty, soon red again). Have used both without any hitches (but with a LOT of care, I hate these necessary evil jacks), but the 60" is a lot more practical, if a bit unwieldy to carry and store. My wagon is SOA so the 60" is the only way to go.

Just recently used it to handwinch the whole FJ62 (blown engine) onto a 20' trailer, it was a BITCH but worked out in the end.
 
Here is my airbag jack. It weighs less than 12lbs and everything (bag, pipe, patch kit, gloves) fits in a included duffle bag. This one is a 8 ton (8000 kg) unit. Sorry for the bad picture. I'll try to get another picture in the daylight if there is any interest.
attachment.php
 
Get the 60. I tried using a 48" hi-lift on my 80 with only 2.5 lift -- no go -- I maxed out the lift and the tire was not off the ground :mad:

I don't know that you'll find too many point to jack from on a stock 80. You could replace the running board with sliders -- what a great excluse to get a set of sliders ;)

if you have a stock rig with no good jack points for the hi-lift, why not use the bottle jack supplied by Toyota?
 
IMHO it's a little safer to wrap a chain or ratchet strap around the axle and then the frame above it before jacking up the truck with a Hi-lift to change a tire. That way it only takes a couple clicks of the jack to lift the tire off the ground. Otherwise you can't lift high enough or just about the time you do get it high enough it gets REAL dipsy or does tip off the jack. BTDT... :rolleyes:

Best way I have found is to Hi-lift from the side on a stout set of sliders with a chain or strap on the axle. Gets the tire up quickly and is much more stable than lifting from the front or rear. YRMV of course...

Oh, and stay OUT of the arc of the handle. It hits HARD if you get in the way. BTDT too... :doh: Know of a guy in Maine that lost his eye right there and then after gettin hit in the side of his head with the jack handle...not how I'd like to remember my day of wheelin'...

Nick
 
97 FZJ80 said:
Here is my airbag jack. It weighs less than 12lbs and everything (bag, pipe, patch kit, gloves) fits in a included duffle bag. This one is a 8 ton (8000 kg) unit. Sorry for the bad picture. I'll try to get another picture in the daylight if there is any interest.
attachment.php
Click to expand...

would love one of these for sand play, but they are darn expensive it seems. The ones I've seen that were 8 tons or so were close to $1000... :eek:
and can't imagine you can use these on rocks...
 
zebrabeefj40 said:
IMHO it's a little safer to wrap a chain or ratchet strap around the axle and then the frame above it before jacking up the truck with a Hi-lift to change a tire. That way it only takes a couple clicks of the jack to lift the tire off the ground. Otherwise you can't lift high enough or just about the time you do get it high enough it gets REAL dipsy or does tip off the jack. BTDT... :rolleyes:

Best way I have found is to Hi-lift from the side on a stout set of sliders with a chain or strap on the axle. Gets the tire up quickly and is much more stable than lifting from the front or rear. YRMV of course...

Oh, and stay OUT of the arc of the handle. It hits HARD if you get in the way. BTDT too... :doh: Know of a guy in Maine that lost his eye right there and then after gettin hit in the side of his head with the jack handle...not how I'd like to remember my day of wheelin'...

Nick
Click to expand...

the chain bit is a great idea!
 
e9999 said:
would love one of these for sand play, but they are darn expensive it seems. The ones I've seen that were 8 tons or so were close to $1000... :eek:
and can't imagine you can use these on rocks...
Click to expand...

$1000 :confused:

These are available in Asia, Australia, and Europe for much less than that. Here is a link

http://www.seton.co.uk/perl/product.pl?productid=6345

The 8 ton unit I have is a little larger and inflats higher.
 
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