Ok I finally got sick of the flashing lights on the dash I know that the FR and RR Diff Locks are working but the dash indicators would just stay flashing.
Pulled the rear indicator switch out and blasted it with Contact Cleaner and tested it. Ohmmeter read high >500 Ohms when the switch was operated but at least there was a defintite change when the switch was operated. Hooked up a 12 volt source and connected a 20 watt lamp in series with the switch and operated the switch. After a couple of operations the switch was working much better and the lamp was glowing brightly. Measured the resistance of the switch after this and it was much lower <10 ohms.
The problem with these switches appears to be that they get diff oil in them AND because they are only inputs to a control module they never switch much current. Therefore they do not have any kind of self cleaning effect AND of course they are used so seldomly that they just get dirty.
The front switch was gunked up with a mixture of diff oil and CV Grease from another life. The contact cleaner routine was duly applied to this switch as well but it was not successful at all. Neccessity is the mother of invention they say and the problem is that it is very hard to get the contact cleaner into the switch where it will do the most good. So I drilled a 2mm hole in the threaded barrel part of the switch 4mm down from the hex shoulder and then using a thin plastic hose on the contact cleaner sprayer I blasted contact cleaner into the interior of the switch. Instant success!!
The hole I drilled was in just the right place more by good luck than good management so now I have diff lock engagement and indicator lights on solid.
I did some checking and found that the switch only has to be operated by 0.8mm to close the contacts.
Cheers
Hedley
Pulled the rear indicator switch out and blasted it with Contact Cleaner and tested it. Ohmmeter read high >500 Ohms when the switch was operated but at least there was a defintite change when the switch was operated. Hooked up a 12 volt source and connected a 20 watt lamp in series with the switch and operated the switch. After a couple of operations the switch was working much better and the lamp was glowing brightly. Measured the resistance of the switch after this and it was much lower <10 ohms.
The problem with these switches appears to be that they get diff oil in them AND because they are only inputs to a control module they never switch much current. Therefore they do not have any kind of self cleaning effect AND of course they are used so seldomly that they just get dirty.
The front switch was gunked up with a mixture of diff oil and CV Grease from another life. The contact cleaner routine was duly applied to this switch as well but it was not successful at all. Neccessity is the mother of invention they say and the problem is that it is very hard to get the contact cleaner into the switch where it will do the most good. So I drilled a 2mm hole in the threaded barrel part of the switch 4mm down from the hex shoulder and then using a thin plastic hose on the contact cleaner sprayer I blasted contact cleaner into the interior of the switch. Instant success!!
The hole I drilled was in just the right place more by good luck than good management so now I have diff lock engagement and indicator lights on solid.
I did some checking and found that the switch only has to be operated by 0.8mm to close the contacts.
Cheers
Hedley
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