Builds Diff Kraken's Got Beef: Project Luna - 2008 URJ200 (1 Viewer)

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There are some threads on windshield leaks, which are probably more comprehensive than I can describe here, but I think it comes down to a few things:
  • Make sure the cowl seals are tight to prevent water from coming in via the cabin filter
    • water may leak onto the passenger's side but you won't notice it because the carpet padding will soak it up until it's really bad
  • Look for windshield leaks
    • after a heavy rain or car wash pull the plastic covers in the front footwells between the seat/floormat and the door and look for water
    • Check for water or signs of corrosion (green discoloration) in the terminals of various wiring harnesses
  • Clear your sunroof drains
    • I think this may look similar to a windshield leak so just because you see water above doesn't mean its a bad windshield seal
 
There are some threads on windshield leaks, which are probably more comprehensive than I can describe here, but I think it comes down to a few things:
  • Make sure the cowl seals are tight to prevent water from coming in via the cabin filter
    • water may leak onto the passenger's side but you won't notice it because the carpet padding will soak it up until it's really bad
  • Look for windshield leaks
    • after a heavy rain or car wash pull the plastic covers in the front footwells between the seat/floormat and the door and look for water
    • Check for water or signs of corrosion (green discoloration) in the terminals of various wiring harnesses
  • Clear your sunroof drains
    • I think this may look similar to a windshield leak so just because you see water above doesn't mean its a bad windshield seal
Thank you much! I’ll check out the seals, paying special attention to the cowl seals, and post up some pics and dig around some of the other threads to see some examples.

Thanks for the reminder on the sunroof drains. I’ll put that on my to do now list.
 
I posted this as a wanted ad in MUD classifieds, but didn’t get any hits.

Does anyone have a gray center headrest for the third row that I can purchase?

It would be very much appreciated.


Update: En route from a kind MUD member. Thank you @kevinfoutch ! This will be used often and was the only thing missing from the truck.
 
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New OEM shift knob, OEM mats, and lift kit ready for install. 🥰

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1 - 2701 Front OME Coils (Pair)
2 - 91005 Front OME Nitrocharger Sport Struts
1 - 2722 Rear OME Coils (Pair)
2 - 61029 Rear OME Nitrocharger Sport Shocks
OEM Toyota 200 Series Upper Strut Mounts part 48609-60070
 
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Read up on loosening KDSS valves before you lift.
3 turns with a 5mm allenkey. PB blaster going on tonight, and tomorrow and the next day and the next day. Ill make sure it’s moving before diving in on the install.

@OTRAMM has got it figured out here.

 
Alright, here’s what we’re working with. Just sprayed the bolts but didn’t hit them with a wire brush or try them with an allen key yet. They don’t look too bad. I’m cautiously optimistic.

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Yeah I’d expect them to turn

When you’re all done, slather then with marine grease
 
Yeah I’d expect them to turn

When you’re all done, slather then with marine grease
They turn!! They turn!!! :)


Removed and tossed the rando truck sidesteps... looking much better. Now I need rock sliders...

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The older sister below is my neighbor’s 62 that she bought new in California and won’t ever let go. Her husband drives an Audi and doesn’t seem too interested in the truck. Trivia fact- this 62 was in a Doug Demuro video sometime last year. If you’re into that sort of thing:

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Looks like it's time to a tech day
 
Looks like it's time to a tech day
Yup- In addition to lift, sliders, winch, skids install, I need to check out all the front end components. Planning to this weekend. I’m sure I’ll need something. 175k miles. There’s a bit of play up front. Maybe eventually LCAs, tie rods, wheel bearings? Steering rack? Should be fun. Lol. Hopefully it just needs new tires.

I’ll also double check the Toyota service history and export a list of what has been done over the years to see the age of various components.
 
Connecting iPhone SE for calls and music:

I managed to connect iPhone SE to the factory bluetooth. The menu was slightly different than in this write up below, but it wasn’t difficult to get working for calls.


It didn’t seem to want to transfer my contacts, but that’s ok. Ill use the phone interface itself to make calls. I’ll be using a lightning plug to auxiliary 3.5mm jack for music as the 2008 model year Bluetooth can only be used for calls but not for music.

I’ll have the phone mounted up near the driver’s side airvent above the radio using this mount (it is on back order and ProClip will have one made for you when you order). I hope I’ll still be able to use the master HVAC temperature control buttons under the vent after install:

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For charging the phone, I’m using a single port usb in cigarette lighter adapter:

SCOSCHE USBC121M ReVolt Universal Mobile Single Port Car Charger, Black

Amazon product ASIN B00JRVN2F8

After playing around with a few different connector setups- to have charging, auxiliary music, phone calls and Google map audible directions simultaneously- I have settled on this lightning adapter that has both USB for charging and a 3.5mm audio jack in one cable that plugs into the Cruiser's Aux input port. It's working great. I'm also really impressed and very happy with the sound in this truck. The sub does an impressive job and the highs and mids are there too: :)

Amazon product ASIN B08CY4CFLG
 
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Removed aftermarket tint from driver side and passenger side front windows, as well as the windshield's "shade band". Looks much better and is now more compliant with local tint laws.

One thing that appeals to me about the 2008 model year is that it came from the factory with no tint. I plan to remove all of the tint once I move out of DC and back to Virginia later in the year. But for now it provides privacy and security for backseat passengers and the cargo area while parked and driving here in the city.

The tint film itself pulled off in one piece pretty easily and residue easily removed with Goo Gone adhesive remover. The film is thick and strong enough that I think if one of the rear windows is ever cracked or shattered all of the glass will stay in place. So that’s an additional safety and security advantage of the aftermarket tint.
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In these photos, you can also see that the Fluid Film I applied to the bull bar earlier this week has faded noticeably already. There isn't any residue on the surface, so it hasn't proven to be messy when wiped on with a cloth as I did. I will recoat once more in Fluid film and polish with a cloth and see if another coat brightens them for more than a few days, if not, then I will try some other products, as well as purchase replacement ARB rubber "buffers" and new foglight housing.

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I can feel your enthusiasm, it's exciting. looking forward to seeing it with the lift. I also like the 08's without tint throughout, it reminds me of overseas 200s.
 
An alternative option to messing with all of those products is to remove the bumpers and have them re-powder coated. My father did the same on a Tacoma and it turned out great for $250.
 
I don't know much about substrate prep for powdercoat, but I'd be nervous to try to paint them after covering them in a oil based rust preventative product. The tiniest amount of oil will result in things like fisheyes and other imperfections.
 
I don't know much about substrate prep for powdercoat, but I'd be nervous to try to paint them after covering them in a oil based rust preventative product. The tiniest amount of oil will result in things like fisheyes and other imperfections.
They would definitely need to be sandblasted down at that point I think

I lightly sanded my front bumper which had some rust forming, then painted with POR15 and applied their “chassis black” top coat afterwards. It’s been about 9 months and still looks like it did when I did it last fall. It’s not a perfect powder coat smooth but that’s largely my fault as the prep with that method is very important and I’m too impatient. That said it looks pretty good and I think could be made to look as good as a smooth PC, for <$100
 
Thanks for the thoughts. I'll likely take care of the rest of my to do list before I worry too much about making the bumpers prettier- which is why Fluid Film makes sense for now just to stop any of the surface rust that has formed in a couple spots. Basically a temporary assist on these bumpers until I have time to do a proper treatment and respray.
 
SEIZED… CAM… BOLTS!!!

My tire guy referred to this current situation as “Common Toyota Manufacturing Defect”… o_O

Blasphemy!!

New LCAs imminent prior to lift install.

Stand by.
 

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