I've done the same thing. I have also used a big flathead screwdriver and hit the edge of the cone washers at an angle and it dislodges them.
Diff Drain Issue & Other Knuckle Drama (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Cass007
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- #22
Had to hit the sides with the hammer to dislodge the cone washers. Not what I wanted, but they finally came out. Even had to tap a small flathead in a few to get them over the threads.
Making sure this grove is supposed to be on the back side of the drive plate?
Inner ring and dust cover off now.
Back plate removed and ABS sensor off. Dropped the steering arm mount too. One of the bolts was just finger tight. The other 3 were fine. Hope it isn't too challenging to get the bottom back on correctly. Trying to cheat and not remove the end links.
Should it have more grease than this? This was the side that wasn't leaking. Just expected to see more grease.
Making sure this grove is supposed to be on the back side of the drive plate?
Inner ring and dust cover off now.
Back plate removed and ABS sensor off. Dropped the steering arm mount too. One of the bolts was just finger tight. The other 3 were fine. Hope it isn't too challenging to get the bottom back on correctly. Trying to cheat and not remove the end links.
Should it have more grease than this? This was the side that wasn't leaking. Just expected to see more grease.
From the pics, the bushing face looks normal, if it's dirty.
You're going to wish you had pulled those links while it was all together. Very difficult if not impossible to get the lower arm lined up with the links on in my experience.
The birf cavity should be 1/2 to 3/4 full of grease when you're done.
You're going to wish you had pulled those links while it was all together. Very difficult if not impossible to get the lower arm lined up with the links on in my experience.
The birf cavity should be 1/2 to 3/4 full of grease when you're done.
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That is dry!
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- #25
How many tubes (not 1lb tubs) should I expect to use per side? Using Valvoline Palladium as per Onur's instruction.
Spike - I'm trying to follow the thread in the FAQ section and it said I could leave the tie rods. I even bought the tool to disassemble them, so maybe I can still do that. It does seem like getting that lower piece to line up is going to be difficult.
I stopped there for the day. Need to grab a 5 gallon pickle bucket from work to fill with gas to degrease the birfs. Do I just spray things down with brake cleaner then after cleaning them up? Should I not wash anything with water and simple green? Asking several stupid noob questions, but wanted to clean and paint things before reassembly if possible.
Spike - I'm trying to follow the thread in the FAQ section and it said I could leave the tie rods. I even bought the tool to disassemble them, so maybe I can still do that. It does seem like getting that lower piece to line up is going to be difficult.
I stopped there for the day. Need to grab a 5 gallon pickle bucket from work to fill with gas to degrease the birfs. Do I just spray things down with brake cleaner then after cleaning them up? Should I not wash anything with water and simple green? Asking several stupid noob questions, but wanted to clean and paint things before reassembly if possible.
I think it's 1.5-2 tubes per side, but don't hold me to that.
YMMV with the lower arm, you can always try it now that it's already disassembled. I never will again.
I avoid water whenever possible, as it risks some surface rust. The brake cleaner will get everything very clean.
I paint it all after it's assembled, hoping it might help seal stuff, like the grease cap. Paint doesn't go places it shouldn't, either. Personal preference.
I know I'm stupid and don't pay attention, but that Irwin Tools Impact Bolt Grip 53917 is something I've never seen before. Just the kind of thing I know I'll get pissed for not having the ONE time I need it in life. Looks like there are better prices than Amazon if you shop around.
I'm in the other school. I've used these on my Cruisers for years and love them. When I get a new cruiser, I change the TC and diff oils and put these in. But that's me.
- Thread starter
- #30
More progress ... more issues. Knuckle was super dry, hub was the same. This is right after I pulled the birf out. Didn't even clean it yet.
Is this normal or a huge problem? Should that be beveled like that?
Knuckle shows some rust up top too.
The top and back side of the hub has a rust coating. Seems to come off with wire brush and maybe a ton of scrubbing with a scotch pad. Ok to give that a shot?
Is this normal or a huge problem? Should that be beveled like that?
Knuckle shows some rust up top too.
The top and back side of the hub has a rust coating. Seems to come off with wire brush and maybe a ton of scrubbing with a scotch pad. Ok to give that a shot?
- Thread starter
- #31
Using the Wit's End Reference guide to figure out where the gaskets go. Pretty sure I have the proper order on those. Missing a flange gasket, will need to source local sine Onur is travelling. All of the gaskets have bonded to the metal surfaces. Very time consuming to scrape them off. Is there a better method?
One more stupid question today. Does anyone know what Koyo bearing part numbers translate to OEM bearing numbers. Size should dictate, but just making sure I have the right things. The trunion bearings look very different from the Koyo bearings. They are sealed it seems. Does it matter which direction is up when installing the Koyo bearings? This is what I have ....
The big round rubber gasket at the bottom left. I only have 1 of those and don't see it on my reference. Anyone know dafuq that is for?
One more stupid question today. Does anyone know what Koyo bearing part numbers translate to OEM bearing numbers. Size should dictate, but just making sure I have the right things. The trunion bearings look very different from the Koyo bearings. They are sealed it seems. Does it matter which direction is up when installing the Koyo bearings? This is what I have ....
The big round rubber gasket at the bottom left. I only have 1 of those and don't see it on my reference. Anyone know dafuq that is for?
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That is one of the reasons that greasy balls are good, dry balls are bad. I would sand it and paint that area, the official Cruiser color, Krylon satin black.
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Not a knuckle part? Looks like a distributor cap dust seal?
Where did you get your "kit"?
You can go to cruiseroutfitters website and cross check part numbers for what you need. I don't see everything needed in that picture.
@cruiseroutfit
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- #35
I missed getting a pic of the other stuff. The knuckle kit is Trail Tailor.
Is part of the bearing still in the hub? Should there be metal where the slots are in the sides?
Is part of the bearing still in the hub? Should there be metal where the slots are in the sides?
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Those are the races, knock them out, should be new ones with the bearings. Pay attention, don't install them upside down!
Amen. I hate dry balls.
