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Diesel throttle help

Discussion in 'Diesel Tech / 24 volts' started by shameless, Dec 15, 2003.

  1. shameless

    shameless

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    So I finally got my BJ40 back from the body shop. Drove her home, parked, then got back in her to go to the gym.

    Got out of the gym about an hour later, hopped in and cranked. Cranking cranking cranking, no catching. Then I noticed no exhaust during the cranking either, a definite new development.

    Looked under the hood and saw that the cable working the throttle had some slack in it. Got my girl to crank while I moved the throttle myself and voila! Vroooom.

    Drove home normally but when I tried to start again, same problem - slack in that cable.

    Do you think the cable/housing needs to be lubed (if so with what), any other ideas for what could have happened? She has pretty much been sitting for 5 months, I don't think anything was done to the throttle by the body shop.

    Observations? Experiences?
     
  2. Perfect Obsession

    Perfect Obsession

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    How is the idle when running? Too low?
     
  3. shameless

    shameless

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    Idle and driving performance is fine - only seems to happen when trying to start her.

    If I lube the cable what should I use?
     
  4. Perfect Obsession

    Perfect Obsession

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    From what I know, the cable do not adjust the idle speed. It's a screw locked in place by a nut, the idle adjusting screw.

    I don't know what kind of work you've done lately but you could have losted this screw ?!?!?!?
     
  5. IironSika

    IironSika

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  6. shameless

    shameless

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    Yeah right - no way my european B engine (one of Toyota's oldest) has anything electronic anywhere near it ;)

    Again, this is not an idling problem, and when I pull the lever myself (the one attached to the cable in question) while the engine is cranking she starts right up.
     
  7. cruiser_guy

    cruiser_guy

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    I wouldn't be too quick to discount the suggestion put out by IironSika! You've either got a fuel cut solinoid or an EDIC motor and my bets are on the EDIC motor.
    Take a look at the drivers side of the block and you should see a rod from the injection pump going back to a small motor (looks kind of like a window wiper motor). That motor positions the injection pump in three potential positions, 1) overinjection to start, 2) normal for regular driving and 3) off.
    If you start by playing wth the throttle it's kind of like over injection.
    You can easily check this be having your girl friend crank and start it while you watch the EDIC motor positions. It should pull right back in the start position, move to a mid position when it's running and be pushed forward when you shut down.
    If you've got the "B" series engine manual have a look at page ST-26/27 and you'll see what I mean.
     
  8. Perfect Obsession

    Perfect Obsession

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  9. shameless

    shameless

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    OK, OK - I'll check into that :)

    Naturally she started up no problem when I tried last night. What a tempermental girl.
     
  10. Perfect Obsession

    Perfect Obsession

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    [quote author=shameless link=board=1;threadid=8799;start=msg76406#msg76406 date=1071586304]
    Naturally she started up no problem when I tried last night. What a tempermental girl.
    [/quote]

    Is she suffering of PMS? ??? Sorry, you are suffering! :eek:
     
  11. shameless

    shameless

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    I really need an electrical expert to give her a good going-over. The tail lights, fuel and temperature gauges are on the blink too.

    Yeah its cruiser ownership - and 24 volt at that! ;)
     
  12. shameless

    shameless

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    OK, if this is the EDIC, and I need someone to watch while I try to start, dammit - what do I do about it? If it isn't going to the "overinject" position?

    Help.
     
  13. cruiser_guy

    cruiser_guy

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    It may be as simple as just adjusting the linkage between the EDIC motor and the injection pump. Worst case is an EDIC motor. Then I pity you :'( because, while I may have an extra one, it's 12v not 24v (only BJ40/42 and HJ60 were 24v over here, BJ60's were 12v fortunately).
    If you find that it is the EDIC motor and you want another one PM me and I can give you some possible contacts for that stuff. It is possible, as moT will attest, that you can work around it but you loose the safety of auto shutdown on a loss of oil pressure. Also you need to manually move the pump to over injection, drive or off as required through a pull in the cab that you need to rig up.
    Do you have the OEM engine manual? It's available on the web as an Adobe document if you don't have it.
     
  14. arutgers

    arutgers

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    I am pretty sure my 1978 BJ40 (B-engine) does not have an EDIC. When I pull out the key the engine keeps running. To stop the engine I have to pull a knob at the dashboard that operates a lever at the injection pump. Perhaps Shameless hasn't got an EDIC either. Maybe a stupid remark, but do you press the throttle full during starting? You should.

    Ton
     
  15. shameless

    shameless

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    I do have the EDIC. Got her started finally, and the motor does shift to the various positions, though I can't say yet whether they match spec.

    I'm sure I'll be messing around more tomorrow.

    Yes I do give full throttle at start - when this falt occurs there is no smoke while cranking, a sure sign that she ain't getting the right amount of fuel.

    Thanks for the advice so far guys :)
     
  16. Perfect Obsession

    Perfect Obsession

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    http://home.hccnet.nl/ton.rutgers/ip_1.jpg
    On this image, coming from Ton, the EDIC is supposed to be connected via a connecting rod instead of a wire.

    When stopping, to underinject fuel, the EDIC, and the rod, pull onto the pivot (to the left on the picture), as per Ton's wire should do.
    When starting, to overinject fuel, the EDIC, and the rod, push onto the pivot (to the right on the picture), going farther than the running position.
    When running, to normaly inject fuel, the EDIC place the pivot at a "central" position.

    Just get a look to EDIC motion when someone else is starting.
     
  17. shameless

    shameless

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    Yup, that is what I'm gonna do, with the diagram at hand. Mine has the connecting rod and everything seems attached fine.

    Thanks :)
     
  18. 70seriesaddict

    70seriesaddict

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    Hey Shameless,
    My '86 BJ70 had EDIC problems, it started with it momentarily shutting off while in the middle of driving it and at first only when certain other electrical things were on like lights or when it was raining. Then, after time it would not only do the above whenever with no warnign, it started to not start and not shut off. Didn't know where the short was, pulled the push rod out, drove it forever with a string hanging out the grille to pull to shut it off. After tearing into wiring looking for a short checked the EDIC motor and found the little metal contacts inside had lost their spring and would stick at times causing the motor to not know what position it was supposed to be in. Got a spare EDIC motor when I bought my '87 BJ70, put it in, and voila, it starts, runs, and shuts off as it should. Open up the EDIC and have a look see inside.