Diesel Running Temperatures (1 Viewer)

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60%(destilled) water 40% coolant( with diesel wetter)...sorry for my English is a little rusty
 
there is apparently a winter and summer t-stat..... page 235, 3b toyota manual.
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Is it possible that Toyota's one of the best built trucks overheats everytime it hits the hills? Those trucks were used in Australia, Africa and other hot climate and some alpine countries.
This sounds like an engineering flaw. There seems something not right.

Can anyone explain?

BTW I had the overheating problem or quite close to it, when driving back from NC and over 10 minutes on 5% grade hill. The temp gauge, stock, climbed up almost to the red line. Luckily we were over the hill by then. My RPM was at 2800, speed at 50-60 mph, ambient temp was around 85 F. Can't fix the "problem" now since I can't simulate the hills. It's flat where I am in Southern Ontario.
 
When I see my water temp go over 200 start think on that .. and 210 it's to much for me .. most of cases I found me downshifting to keep my engine cool, with at much 1100ºF ..

In a flat surface I can go easy over 15 PSI and 1200 - 1300 ºF but my water temp start rising fast .. ( yes I have the factory fan and shroud and my fan clutch it's perfect ) but aren't the real issue ..

The fun par come when I stop .. need to rev up the engine and pop the hood to allow my engine calm down ..
 
Is it possible that Toyota's one of the best built trucks overheats everytime it hits the hills? Those trucks were used in Australia, Africa and other hot climate and some alpine countries.
This sounds like an engineering flaw. There seems something not right.

Can anyone explain?
Invariably caused by too much fuel, too little air or incomplete combustion. If the fuel has not been tampered with, usually caused by worn injectors.

A turbo compensates for this weakness, so does larger/more numerous valves.

Except in low speed or stationary applications diesels are definitely at their best with a turbocharger, broadens the power band and allows the engine to breathe better over a wider speed range like are typically encountered on the road.

But that's just my opinion.
 
To overcome high egts you need a turbo that produces more cfm at certain psi...more condesed air(intercooler) and volume. This way the turbo will supply the oxygen needed to burn the extra fuel...is not just higher psi in th turbo to lower egts
 
If you are using the stock temp gauge you are fooling yourself as to your temps!!! My bj62 loaded with 17 boston whaler in tow hits 240 going up Kelly Mountain in Cape Breton. At that temp the factory gauge is not in the red!! The factory temp gauge SUCKS.... I have a mechanical gauge and you can actually watch the thermostat cycle. I just installed a new 4 core rad and the temps here are 0 to -12c and the old girl is having a hard time getting to 190f normal op temp...makes me happy!! This summer should be alot easier towing the boat( temp wise anyways...gotta get that turbo on! )

Put in a mechanical gauge if you really want to see what is happening.

One other note...the mechanical gauge really helped me dignose the cracked head prob a few years ago...driving along with normal temp and the temp gauge would jump 20-30 degrees for a few seconds and then drop to normal and would do this every so often. The factory gauge is so slow it would not even show the slighest movement!!

Daryl
 
To overcome high egts you need a turbo that produces more cfm at certain psi...more condesed air(intercooler) and volume.

Thanks Spallet ... good shot there .. could be important in a DIY turbo setup know pretty well the performance island and turbo map for your turbo and know if it's recomended mfor your aplication and the performance that you expect ..
 

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