Did I overpay for my 80? (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Nov 25, 2019
Threads
10
Messages
54
Location
Phoenix, AZ
Hi all,

Please forgive me if this is the wrong place to post a subject like this. New to the forum and also a new FZJ80 owner. I figured this was "technical" and would require some knowledge to answer.

My brother recently purchased a '93 Land Cruiser, threw a 4 inch lift and crammed 37s on. I got pretty jealous as I have been driving IFS 4Runners for years and always annoyed that I couldn't go above a 33 without MAJOR modifications. I had been using a 2006 4Runner for overlanding for a while, and was thinking about looking into different rigs with better aftermarket parts support (4th Gen 4Runners for some reason were cursed with very little aftermarket support). He kept saying I should buy a FZJ80, so I started browsing Craigslist. WOW I couldn't believe how much these high-mileage beasts were going for. This is not my first rodeo for buying used cars, and I knew the basics of what to look for in an 80 (at this point I had not discovered Mud yet). After searching for 2 or 3 months, I finally came across a 1997 LX 450 that seemed clean. I felt like I had a good sense for what a good price was, as most triple-locked 80's with 250k+ miles were going for over $11k.

I picked it up in Bend Oregon for $10,900 (I was in the area for hunting) and drove it down to Phoenix Arizona immediately. The Land Cruiser market in Phoenix is very limited, with most rigs listed in pretty rough shape and very overpriced, so I broadened my horizons and looked at most major west coast cities Craigslist ads.

Here's what was done to it before I bought it:

- 202k miles
- 2” OME standard in front then added 1” puck
- 2” OME med load in rear
- Front & rear Yukon 4.88 gears (it is pretty over-geared with now with 35s, I need some 37s!)
- New carrier & pinion bearings F&R
- New inner & outer wheel bearings F&R
- Front Marlin crawler Eco seal inner axle seals
- New inner axle seals in rear
- New birfield felt seal kit
- New front trunion bearings top & bottom
- Rear Yukon Grizzly locker
- Front locking hubs
- Slee part time t- case kit
- 3:1 t-case gearing
- 7th pin mod
- New water pump
- New thermostat
- Complete coolant flush
- Belt tensioner & belts
- Intake tube
- EGR vacuum solenoid (under intake)
- Cats removed built o2 cheater
- Trans fluid change (@approx 180k)
- Nice Wheels & 35" tires. Wheels are Eagle Alloys and tires are BFG KM2s with lots of tread left.
- New brake rotors & pads front and rear
- Rear gear oil changed after 1k break in.
- Driveline UJoints greased every 5k
- Pioneer touchscreen head unit & door
- Speakers. (Factory amp disconnected)
- Trailer brake controller & large 7 pin plug installed. + pin is hot when engine is running.
- Power port at tailgate, hot w/ acc on.

Additional details:
- Interior was in good shape minus the drivers bottom seat which had been crudely replaced with some janky pleather.
- Hood and roof paint is pretty bad. But everywhere else is good.
- All windows worked no problem
- fender and window black trim pieces in poor shape
- rear door locks broken
- Very clean underneath - almost zero rust.
- Oil EVERYWHERE on the sides and oil pan of the engine. Looked like it was the valve cover.
- Engine purred like a kitten. Drove great on the test drive. Transmission shifted firmly.
- Came with the Cats chopped off, previous owner lived in an area with no emissions.

Things I did as soon as I drove it home:
- Installed 2 in-line Cats to pass emissions
- Clean engine compartment and spray everything down with brake clean
- Valve cover gasket and spark plug tube seals
- Pesky heater hose
- I bought the Wits-End oil pump cover gasket and front main kit, but after fixing the valve cover gasket there doesn't appear to be any more new oil leaks coming from anywhere (besides a drop or two on the pavement from the rear main). Drove it 2000+ miles since doing valve cover.
- Replaced the rear door lock actuators with some $35 ebay ones, they actually work now
- Slee dual battery kit on the way
- Marlin Crawler steering upgrade kit in the garage ready to install

Additional plans:
- 4" lift
- 37s (it is pretty overgeared right now, I need these babys now!)
- Sliders
- Rear bumper with swing outs
- Front bumper with winch

What do you guys think? Did I overpay? Good deal? Fair deal? Do you think I am going to regret going with a Yukon Grizzly locked rig instead of triple-locked?

20191110081401_IMG_7519.jpg


Immediately after the valve cover and PHH job, drove it up to Lake Powell for a camping trip! So much more room inside than the 4Runner for overlanding.
 
Sounds like both parties got what they wanted. 👍
Good lookin Lexi.
 
You're enjoying it, right? So no.

:cheers:
 
Seems like a good value at that price though a few thousand one way or another won't matter much in the long run anyway. It would cost more to build that rig from a beater 80 so as long as it was built in direction that you want to take it I think you did well.

Congrats!
 
Nah...you got a decent deal if the rig was well cared for. When I look at the picture you posted of Lake Powell I have no idea why you might be having buyers remorse. All I can say is Congratulations and keep posting pics of your future trips.
 
Looks like you got a good deal and it came from an enthusiast.

You'll get guys in here saying they bought their triple locked 97 with 50k miles on it for 4,000 dollars. It happens but its rare. I think you got a lot of truck for that price.

Also keep in mind you've invested in something that will most likely appreciate in value if taken care of.
 
Last edited:
Nah...you got a decent deal if the rig was well cared for. When I look at the picture you posted of Lake Powell I have no idea why you might be having buyers remorse. All I can say is Congratulations and keep posting pics of your future trips.

Thanks! I definitely don't have buyers remorse (unless the head gasket or something goes out on me within a year). But after browsing this forum for a while I was just curious if I got a decent deal or not.
 
That’s a long build/parts list with some quality stuff. Sounds like a good deal, enjoy it. I wouldn’t jump right into a 4” lift and 37s yet. Enjoy and drive it for a while and make sure the PM stuff is up to date. These trucks are very cable with a 2-3” lift, 35s and a rear locker.
 
Like everyone else said, if you're happy, who cares!? I used to worry about getting a good deal on things but really in the long run I'd rather overpay for a solid rig than fight over pennies (rather a handful of Benjis) and get something less than great.
 
Seems like a decent deal.

I would absolutely wait on the lift and tires. Enjoy the truck for a few months as it is.
 
You did OK.

Now go outside and play.
 
Seems like a good value at that price though a few thousand one way or another won't matter much in the long run anyway. It would cost more to build that rig from a beater 80 so as long as it was built in direction that you want to take it I think you did well.

Congrats!
^^This^^

I waited for the LC was that was built in the direction that I wanted to go. Well worth it in the long run, IMO.
 
Hi all,

Please forgive me if this is the wrong place to post a subject like this. New to the forum and also a new FZJ80 owner. I figured this was "technical" and would require some knowledge to answer.

My brother recently purchased a '93 Land Cruiser, threw a 4 inch lift and crammed 37s on. I got pretty jealous as I have been driving IFS 4Runners for years and always annoyed that I couldn't go above a 33 without MAJOR modifications. I had been using a 2006 4Runner for overlanding for a while, and was thinking about looking into different rigs with better aftermarket parts support (4th Gen 4Runners for some reason were cursed with very little aftermarket support). He kept saying I should buy a FZJ80, so I started browsing Craigslist. WOW I couldn't believe how much these high-mileage beasts were going for. This is not my first rodeo for buying used cars, and I knew the basics of what to look for in an 80 (at this point I had not discovered Mud yet). After searching for 2 or 3 months, I finally came across a 1997 LX 450 that seemed clean. I felt like I had a good sense for what a good price was, as most triple-locked 80's with 250k+ miles were going for over $11k.

I picked it up in Bend Oregon for $10,900 (I was in the area for hunting) and drove it down to Phoenix Arizona immediately. The Land Cruiser market in Phoenix is very limited, with most rigs listed in pretty rough shape and very overpriced, so I broadened my horizons and looked at most major west coast cities Craigslist ads.

Here's what was done to it before I bought it:

- 202k miles
- 2” OME standard in front then added 1” puck
- 2” OME med load in rear
- Front & rear Yukon 4.88 gears (it is pretty over-geared with now with 35s, I need some 37s!)
- New carrier & pinion bearings F&R
- New inner & outer wheel bearings F&R
- Front Marlin crawler Eco seal inner axle seals
- New inner axle seals in rear
- New birfield felt seal kit
- New front trunion bearings top & bottom
- Rear Yukon Grizzly locker
- Front locking hubs
- Slee part time t- case kit
- 3:1 t-case gearing
- 7th pin mod
- New water pump
- New thermostat
- Complete coolant flush
- Belt tensioner & belts
- Intake tube
- EGR vacuum solenoid (under intake)
- Cats removed built o2 cheater
- Trans fluid change (@approx 180k)
- Nice Wheels & 35" tires. Wheels are Eagle Alloys and tires are BFG KM2s with lots of tread left.
- New brake rotors & pads front and rear
- Rear gear oil changed after 1k break in.
- Driveline UJoints greased every 5k
- Pioneer touchscreen head unit & door
- Speakers. (Factory amp disconnected)
- Trailer brake controller & large 7 pin plug installed. + pin is hot when engine is running.
- Power port at tailgate, hot w/ acc on.

Additional details:
- Interior was in good shape minus the drivers bottom seat which had been crudely replaced with some janky pleather.
- Hood and roof paint is pretty bad. But everywhere else is good.
- All windows worked no problem
- fender and window black trim pieces in poor shape
- rear door locks broken
- Very clean underneath - almost zero rust.
- Oil EVERYWHERE on the sides and oil pan of the engine. Looked like it was the valve cover.
- Engine purred like a kitten. Drove great on the test drive. Transmission shifted firmly.
- Came with the Cats chopped off, previous owner lived in an area with no emissions.

Things I did as soon as I drove it home:
- Installed 2 in-line Cats to pass emissions
- Clean engine compartment and spray everything down with brake clean
- Valve cover gasket and spark plug tube seals
- Pesky heater hose
- I bought the Wits-End oil pump cover gasket and front main kit, but after fixing the valve cover gasket there doesn't appear to be any more new oil leaks coming from anywhere (besides a drop or two on the pavement from the rear main). Drove it 2000+ miles since doing valve cover.
- Replaced the rear door lock actuators with some $35 ebay ones, they actually work now
- Slee dual battery kit on the way
- Marlin Crawler steering upgrade kit in the garage ready to install

Additional plans:
- 4" lift
- 37s (it is pretty overgeared right now, I need these babys now!)
- Sliders
- Rear bumper with swing outs
- Front bumper with winch

What do you guys think? Did I overpay? Good deal? Fair deal? Do you think I am going to regret going with a Yukon Grizzly locked rig instead of triple-locked?

View attachment 2149528

Immediately after the valve cover and PHH job, drove it up to Lake Powell for a camping trip! So much more room inside than the 4Runner for overlanding.
Where is this camp site?!?
 
You way overpaid. Truck is at most a 4k truck. Its high mileage, doesn't have original equipment. (i.e. belts are new, so is axle seal) Trucks are always worth more with factory original parts. Rear door lock is a major repair needed and it looks like your missing the 3rd row seats which i see listed on craigs list for $750 to $1000 all the time.( listed not sold). Plus a bunch of who knows what kind of sketchy aftermarket parts were used. ( OME, Marlin, Grizzly).

Now if you want a nice one i have a 93 with 320k miles that only needs a couple of minor fixes ( rusted out frame and quarters, missing rear window, rear brake lines rusted out and won't currently start) that i would let go for $9600 which is great price if you know anything about these trucks and their life span.

Wait, I might should have stared a new post with that second paragraph.

Seriously, You will almost never find a consensus on a proper price on here and whats most important is that your happy. The amount you pay is just the tip of the iceberg when it comes to what the total price will end at.

Good luck and happy purchase
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom