Did the coolant flush - no sludge, radiator looks new on top. Also changed out big hoses on tstat side - those clamps are a PITA. Skipped the PHH as I did not see any signs of bulging or leaking. Put in a new tstat/gasket, re-filled, started up - no leaks. Drove around block and parked in driveway - leaking. It appears to be coming from the opposite end (DS) of the bottom bolt - not directly below the tstat housing. After checking in the FSM I did not align the jiggle valve properly - could this cause the leak? What is behind the tstat housing (toward the DS)? Thanks, Nelson
Did coolant flush and new tstat - leaking behind .. (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter drnls
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Take it back apart again,
position of the giggler valve is important, it purges air so that the T-stat is sitting in 100% coolant for accurate quick opening and closing, if air gets trapped there T-stat reaction could be sluggish (air does not conduct heat well), you could overheat, witch could lead to head gasket failure, but that is kind of like a butterfly's wing beat in Africa could start a hurricane that hits Florida
Well besides it is leaking and needs to be fixed, did you use a Toyota T-stat and gasket? Did you seat the T-stat fully into the slit on the inner surface of the gasket so the gasket could seal both sides of the T-stat?
Behind the T-stat is a chamber where a lot of coolant paths meet, cant tell you more than that I still have not figured out how Toyota got a T-stat to work on the intake side of the engine completely backward of the rest of the automotive world, but it works
position of the giggler valve is important, it purges air so that the T-stat is sitting in 100% coolant for accurate quick opening and closing, if air gets trapped there T-stat reaction could be sluggish (air does not conduct heat well), you could overheat, witch could lead to head gasket failure, but that is kind of like a butterfly's wing beat in Africa could start a hurricane that hits Florida
Well besides it is leaking and needs to be fixed, did you use a Toyota T-stat and gasket? Did you seat the T-stat fully into the slit on the inner surface of the gasket so the gasket could seal both sides of the T-stat?
Behind the T-stat is a chamber where a lot of coolant paths meet, cant tell you more than that I still have not figured out how Toyota got a T-stat to work on the intake side of the engine completely backward of the rest of the automotive world, but it works
drnls said:
Can you maybe be a little clearer on where the leak is. I've read this 10 times and have no clue where you are referring to.
- Thread starter
- #4
Raven - yes all Toyota parts, going to retry this morning.
Landtank - if you look at the tstat housing, then look at the bottom stud/nut, follow that under the tstat housing toward the DS. There is a box behnind it and the water pump. Nelson
Landtank - if you look at the tstat housing, then look at the bottom stud/nut, follow that under the tstat housing toward the DS. There is a box behnind it and the water pump. Nelson
Sorry Nelson but these road map desciptions of where the leak is are killing me. If a pic is possible that would help out greatly. Best of luck with it this morning.
- Thread starter
- #6
landtank - I appreciate your interest, sorry for not being able to describe better. I removed the tstat, installed the gasket on the tstat (that took a while) and then re-installed and re-filled. Running for 20 minutes and no leaking. Thanks for everyone's help. Nelson
What position does this jiggler valve have to be in? I just replaced a tstat in a 92 Landcruiser and paid no attention to where that thing aligned. NO leaks, thank goodness, but now I'm concerned that I did not do this correctly. Any advice? Thanks,
Pat...
Pat...
I don't know that the valve placement is critical if you burp the air out of the system, but it sure does help the process. In fact, I would think it is more critical on the 3FE to have the valve in place as the t-stat is high on the engine and will more likely have air bubbles behind it. I just don't see air bubbles collecting at the bottom of the engine on a FZE. It is less critical on a 3FE only because a 3FE has a cast head on a a cast block and will suffer the affects of over-heating to a lesser degree.
It does make sense that the valve must be above the centerline of the t-stat. otherwise, it does very little. Any little bit helps when you are dealing with a aluminum head on a cast block. It is far better to be safe, than sorry.
Either way, i would make sure to run the engine with the cap off until the coolant circulates well to be sure that all the trapped air is out of the engine. With the jiggle valve, i find much less air burps out than without.
It does make sense that the valve must be above the centerline of the t-stat. otherwise, it does very little. Any little bit helps when you are dealing with a aluminum head on a cast block. It is far better to be safe, than sorry.
Either way, i would make sure to run the engine with the cap off until the coolant circulates well to be sure that all the trapped air is out of the engine. With the jiggle valve, i find much less air burps out than without.
RavenTai said:
I bet if you asked a few of the fella's who live down there they would tell you this is quite possibly true. :whoops:
>> What position does this jiggler valve have to be in? <<
Pat,
The '97 FSM specifies the jiggler valve should be in the 12 o'clock position. No leaks does NOT mean the valve is in the proper position.
-B-
Pat,
The '97 FSM specifies the jiggler valve should be in the 12 o'clock position. No leaks does NOT mean the valve is in the proper position.
-B-
