Detailed Dash Layout - 71 FJ40 (1 Viewer)

[FJCamo]

Before I go to the trouble of building it from scratch, wondering if anyone has a digitized (or analog, I guess?) layout of a 71 FJ40 dash.

Looking to remove/cover some old wood veneer with leather and would be way easier if I had the detailed, measured layout of all the existing buttons/switches.

Have tried already to mock it up using paper and scrap leather,, but seems I'm off by a millimeter here or there every time and would like to get it dialed in tight.

Thanks!

Here's the original layout, sans dimensions.

 

[pjohnson]

detailed, measured layout of all the existing buttons/switches.

Never seen this.

Why not strip the dash and return it to normal rather than recover it? Seems like it would be easier.

 

[FJCamo]

Never seen this.

Why not strip the dash and return it to normal rather than recover it? Seems like it would be easier.

Also a possibility... but that veneer is seriously ON there!

Plus, I make leather stuff for a living and I gotta think it'd look pretty cool with the upgrade.

P.S. This beast is already so far from stock, there's no need to even pretend it's headed back in that direction.

 

[thatcabledude]

Pic of what you’re working with?

 

[pjohnson]

I bet a hot blow-dryer and a putty knife would do the trick. Goo-gone or something like it to remove the adhesive residue.

 

[FJCamo]

I bet a hot blow-dryer and a putty knife would do the trick. Goo-gone or something like it to remove the adhesive residue.

Dammit... why didn't I think of a heat gun already. All over that!

Oh, and that 3m adhesive remover... that stuff is a miracle!

 

[EWheeler]

Before I go to the trouble of building it from scratch, wondering if anyone has a digitized (or analog, I guess?) layout of a 71 FJ40 dash.

Looking to remove/cover some old wood veneer with leather and would be way easier if I had the detailed, measured layout of all the existing buttons/switches.

Have tried already to mock it up using paper and scrap leather,, but seems I'm off by a millimeter here or there every time and would like to get it dialed in tight.

Thanks!

Here's the original layout, sans dimensions.

View attachment 2875949

FYI, this graphic does not match the dash layout of my '71. Here is a '71 un drilled/cut dash. I do not have any dimensions to share/help.

 

[FJCamo]

I bet a hot blow-dryer and a putty knife would do the trick. Goo-gone or something like it to remove the adhesive residue.

Tried a heat gun... technique needs work, but it worked to remove the veneer. Unfortunately took some of the original paint with it!

 

[FJCamo]

Pic of what you’re working with?

 

[FJCamo]

View attachment 2879189

 

[pjohnson]

Damn, I didn't realize it was actually wood.

A little paint loss can be turned into patina.

 

[FJCamo]

Damn, I didn't realize it was actually wood.

A little paint loss can be turned into patina.

The wood would actually look pretty cool if it weren't so ragged. But this all brings me back to another topic, for which I just started another thread... how to verify OG paint color and secure a small amount to test.

Patina is cool and all, but this thing is all over the place in terms of paint. Seriously, have you seen this beast?

 

[EWheeler]

The wood would actually look pretty cool if it weren't so ragged. But this all brings me back to another topic, for which I just started another thread... how to verify OG paint color and secure a small amount to test.

Patina is cool and all, but this thing is all over the place in terms of paint. Seriously, have you seen this beast? View attachment 2879205

I saw a post by @whitey45, oven cleaner could possibly remove the greens and brown. Is the background color factory paint? Or was it a base applied before they ruined that truck with camo? If its not factory, that beige may come off with the oven cleaner too....

I has success removing black spraypaint from my engine firewall With lots of laquer thinner and elbow grease. I couldnt imagine trying to clean/strip a whole truck with this method.

 

[Mtntopper]

For that wood to have stayed that flat, it's very likely epoxied on. If it was mine, I would pull all the knobs and bezels and sand that back to raw metal for a repaint.

 

[FJCamo]

I saw a post by @whitey45, oven cleaner could possibly remove the greens and brown. Is the background color factory paint? Or was it a base applied before they ruined that truck with camo? If its not factory, that beige may come off with the oven cleaner too....

I has success removing black spraypaint from my engine firewall With lots of laquer thinner and elbow grease. I couldnt imagine trying to clean/strip a whole truck with this method.

Funny you say they ruined the fj wirh Camo. I love it exactly for that feature.

And when I say funny, I mean rude.

 

[FJCamo]

For that wood to have stayed that flat, it's very likely epoxied on. If it was mine, I would pull all the knobs and bezels and sand that back to raw metal for a repaint.

Yeah, could go that way for sure. More than a few extra holes in there too, so no small task!

 

[DSRTRDR]

Before I go to the trouble of building it from scratch, wondering if anyone has a digitized (or analog, I guess?) layout of a 71 FJ40 dash.

Looking to remove/cover some old wood veneer with leather and would be way easier if I had the detailed, measured layout of all the existing buttons/switches.

Have tried already to mock it up using paper and scrap leather,, but seems I'm off by a millimeter here or there every time and would like to get it dialed in tight.

Thanks!

Here's the original layout, sans dimensions.

View attachment 2875949

this is not for a '71 - it's for '73 and later

EWheeler has the pic of a correct dash layout for '71

 

[FJCamo]

this is not for a '71 - it's for '73 and later

Could be. It clearly doesn’t match my dash.

Still, the point is that I’m looking for a detailed/digitized layout. Got one for a 71?

 

[DSRTRDR]

your own dash has all the holes in the correct positions

no, I never measured mine (built in very late '71, titled in '72)

 

[73FJ40]

@FJCamo

The original holes for most of your switches likely have reinforcing/indexing washers welded on the backside of the dash. There is a nib on each switch at the 6 o'clock position that fits into the indexing slot, to keep the switch from rotating when you tighten the retaining nut.

If you have the indexing washers, it will be indicative of where the switches were originally located.

Additionally, since (at least) the wiper switch needs a ground, I added a separate ground wire to the wiper switch so I wouldn't have to scrape off the paint on the back of the dash to get a ground: