DEPO Lights with a Slee Harness (2 Viewers)

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thedoughboy

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Recently picked up a pair of DEPO lights off of ebay from the known seller identified all over Mud. I have to say, for the cost, the build quality is legit. Best of all, I can now adjust my headlights. My OE headlights did not adjust any longer as the gears were shot.

Background Info:
I have read countless threads about these lights. I know the best option is HID with retrofitted projectors. I (most likely) will do this but that is later. I cannot justify the $ right now. Most guys here hook the 9006 (low) to the H4 and the 9005 (high) to the H1. This does NOT take advantage of the dual filament the H4 has to offer. In addition, I have read that the H1 is essentially an auxiliary driving light built into the headlight. From my experiments with the H1 last night it does appear to be more of a spot driving light. It sounds like in Europe cars fitted with this set-up have the option to activate the H1 when the high beams (H4 high beam filament) are on. I guess this could be beneficial (to turn off the H1) in raining/snowing conditions. I am not worried about that function.

Question:
I have the Slee 9005/9006 upgrade harness. This harness has a hook up for auxiliary driving lights wired to the highs. If I connect this to the H1 bulbs I then have the 9006 and 9005 plugs going to the H4 lamp. How do I modify this so it works properly? I am assuming I will need some sort of relay. I know I can buy an aftermarket harness from Innovative Wiring or Susquehanna MotorSports. However, like most of us on here...I would like to figure it out if possible :D. Besides, I have the Slee harness already installed.

What I want:
  • When the low beams are on (9006) the low beam filament of the H4 is lit.
  • When the high beams are on (9005) the low beam filament of the H4 is off and the H4 high beam filament is lit. (In addition, the H1 bulb is lit. I believe the auxiliary hook-up will take care of this.)
  • I don't want this to turn into running an HID without projectors debate. I'd like the above situation to be addressed.
  • Oh, yeah...NO politics ;)

As ALWAYS - Thanks for your time and suggestions.
 
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I think Slee sells a kit to plug into the main harness. Relay is included but you need to provide the switch.
 
Yep - the slee or fabbing your own works ..... for sure the H1's expescially with a 100 watt bulb are long range.....
 
H1 is a high beam generally. a relay and a couple wires would give you the high on the H4 + the H1. The slee harness is plug & play tho.
 
H1 is a high beam generally. a relay and a couple wires would give you the high on the H4 + the H1. The slee harness is plug & play tho.

I already have the Slee 9005/9006 upgrade harness which comes with auxiliary light plugs. It is not plug and play for the H4 dual filament. Unless, I am missing something. If you reference my original post I'd like to have this:

  • When the low beams are on (9006) the low beam filament of the H4 is lit.
  • When the high beams are on (9005) the low beam filament of the H4 is off and the H4 high beam filament is lit. (In addition, the H1 bulb is lit. I believe the auxiliary hook-up will take care of this.)
What type of relay would I use? I have searched high and low (no pun intended) and cannot find an answer.
 
Since you don't know what you are doing with the wiring get the aux harness from Slee. It comes with pigtails that you can solder onto whatever connectors come with the bulbs you want to activate. It will have directions on how to wire them so they come on automatically with your other beams like you want.
 
Are there 4 wires coming off the H4 bulbs?
 
For what you want get the aux harness and wire the H4 bulb with the 9005/9006 harness. Wire the H1 with aux harness.
 
For what you want get the aux harness and wire the H4 bulb with the 9005/9006 harness. Wire the H1 with aux harness.

I really appreciate your help but wiring as you describe above will cause both filaments of the H4 bulb to be lit when the high beams are on. Remember, our 80's have the low beams (9006) on when the high beams (9005) is activated. The design of the H4 bulb is for the low beam filament to be off when the high beam is on. Thus, my original question. How can I wire it as you described but have the low beam filament (connected to the 9006) turn off when the high beam is activated?
 
Just FYI I had bought a slee harness to use with some after market headlights that didn't end up well, no fault of the slee harness but rather how the eagle eye headlights were wired.

I HIGHLY suggest you hook everything up FIRST laying the harness out in the open to make sure things are good before you tuck everything away.
 
I already have the Slee 9005/9006 upgrade harness which comes with auxiliary light plugs. It is not plug and play for the H4 dual filament. Unless, I am missing something. If you reference my original post I'd like to have this:

  • When the low beams are on (9006) the low beam filament of the H4 is lit.
  • When the high beams are on (9005) the low beam filament of the H4 is off and the H4 high beam filament is lit. (In addition, the H1 bulb is lit. I believe the auxiliary hook-up will take care of this.)
What type of relay would I use? I have searched high and low (no pun intended) and cannot find an answer.

For what you want get the aux harness and wire the H4 bulb with the 9005/9006 harness. Wire the H1 with aux harness.

What the browncoat said.

I apologize. I wasn't even thinking about 9006 and 9005 bulbs. Or the slee aux plugs.

I recently built my own relay harness to upgrade my '84 Jetta Coupe from 4 sealed beams to H4/H1 conversion housings. I bought a pile of common as dirt "bosch style" 30A 12v SPDT relays and matching sockets. Plugged crimp terminals into the original sockets for triggers. Both H4 low beams off of one relay, each set of high beams (60w H4 + 100w H1) on another, and fog lights with a 4th relay. these are all tucked between the DS headlights and the battery. It was way easy but increased the "unholy mess of wires and tubes" look of the engine compartment.

The ubiquitous "bosch style" general purpose automotive relay is so cheap and plentiful that it sort of annoys me when i start thinking about circuits that would be fine with a tiny 1A relay except that the wee relay is actually more expensive than a 30A relay of questionable quality that will never be stressed and probably work just fine.
 
I really appreciate your help but wiring as you describe above will cause both filaments of the H4 bulb to be lit when the high beams are on. Remember, our 80's have the low beams (9006) on when the high beams (9005) is activated. The design of the H4 bulb is for the low beam filament to be off when the high beam is on. Thus, my original question. How can I wire it as you described but have the low beam filament (connected to the 9006) turn off when the high beam is activated?

this is an excellent application for the relays I've been talking about.

Not the exact relays i'm using. Probably the same sockets though:

http://www.amazon.com/Pack-Relay-Ha...7SW0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1415767209&sr=8-1

These are SPDT or "single pole double throw" relays. That means that the relay can close in two positions.

When the coil is not powered, there is a 40A circuit closed between terminal 30 and terminal 87a.

When the coil is powered, there is a 30A circuit closed between terminal 30 and terminal 87.

Terminal 30 goes to the low beam positive wire.

The low-beam on the H4 goes to terminal 87a.

Terminal 86 goes to ground, terminal 85 goes to the high beam positive wire.

Thus, when terminal 85 is low - when high beams are not on - the coil is not active and there is a closed circuit across the relay to the low beams, which are powered or not powered as per usual.

When terminal 85 is high - when you switch on the high beams - H4 power is switched over to terminal 87, which is the high beam filament in the H4.

RelayWiringGuide.jpg


I've found it's surprisingly hard to find the actual Bosch article - Mouser carries it but I'm uncertain of the exact part number and there are a grundle of variations. Tyco or other legit manufacturer should be just as high quality. Most of the no-name relays should be fine too so long as you don't try to get too close to the actual 30 amp rating.
 
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Was out of town over Thanksgiving. The relays are arriving this Friday. I hope to wire it up this weekend. I am planning on taking pics and posting my results. I'm really curious how the high H4 and (high) H1 work together. Will update when done.
 
Thanks for posting this question, it's exactly what I'm going attempt in the near future.
 
Was out of town over Thanksgiving. The relays are arriving this Friday. I hope to wire it up this weekend. I am planning on taking pics and posting my results. I'm really curious how the high H4 and (high) H1 work together. Will update when done.

That combination is plenty bright on my '84 Jetta TD. I think you'll like it.
 

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