Department of Oddities (1 Viewer)

[86aggie]

Yesterday afternoon, I went to start my '62. Turned the key, and it barely turned over a couple of times, then nothing. Key off and back on, nothing. Started to panic, as I had a meeting to get to. Key on, and motor started turning over very slowly, picking up speed with each 'revolution', finally turning over at 'regular speed". It didn't sound like it was getting fuel at that point, so I gave it some gas and it roared to life. Drove fine. Gauge showed the usual 13.8v as I drove. No issue restarting after meeting or other stops. Started fine this morning. The clock and radio reset, so it appears there was a complete interruption of power. I am trying to understand the cranking process of 'picking up speed' and starting after being 'dead'.

Anyone ever see something similar?

 

[Willard]

Starter going?
Dirty Battery posts?
Bad ground somewhere?
Bad cable (battery -> starter or elsewhere)?

Some basic troubleshooting for you.

 

[g-man]

Weird. Check the state of your starter solenoid. I think its mounted on top of the starter. When you turn your key a small ignition wire sends current to it...which activates the solenoid switch which is a coil and spring which depresses and makes contact allowing big voltage through big wire to go to the starter motor. Once the key is released the current off, the spring releases so your not constantly running the starter motor. Possibly the spring is sticking? This is usually a sealed unit so no way to take it apart. But it can be bench tested to see if the spring is reacting quickly like it should. I guess it's possible too that the ignition switch and wiring is chaffed somewhere and not sending enough voltage to the solenoid? Maybe do some research on that a put a multi-meter on it to see if it's getting the right amount of current.

 

[g-man]

I guess a sticking starter solenoid wouldn't explain the reset clock and radio. Maybe a faulty fusible link? Just a guess. You referenced the volt meter 13.8 but that's current from the alternator and not an indication of battery strength.

 

[vipergrhd]

Have your battery load tested and check for any draw.

 

[php74]

Bet it’s a ground. If battery it wouldn’t get stronger the more times you try to start it, if starter it wouldn’t reset clock.

 

[SteveH]

Clean your battery terminals and cable ends, at a minimum.

 

[86aggie]

Last fall, I replaced my + cable, cut off the old end of the - cable that connects to the fender adjacent to the neg post on the battery. I also cleaned the bare wire before putting a new terminal on the end of the wire. Frankly, I have thought that my marker, dash and roof courtesy lights were brighter after doing that. I built a circuit breaker panel to replace the fusible links that were barely hanging on. Not to say something isn't loose. The thing that I can't figure out is the gradually increasing cranking speed. Lets say it is a bad ground. It was 'out of position' when I first tried to crank it. Then, the last time, its 'in position', but whats the explanation for the changing turnover speed? Can a ground get 'stronger'?

 

[86aggie]

About 20 mins after I wrote that last post, I tried to start it to go home from the office. Sort of turned over and stopped. Nothing. I didnt release the key from the start position, and waited. Same drill, slowly starting to crank over, gradually picking up speed until it got to full cranking speed. I did not give it any gas, and it started on its own. Clock reset but radio did not(kept it settings).It was raining, so I turned on the lights and drove away. I realized in a couple of blocks that my marker lights were not on. Headlights and dash lights worked fine. Got to pizza place to pick up dinner and double checked marker lights. Nada. Came out with dinner, started it up, turned on lights and marker lights came on, full strength.

 

[89BIGBLUE]

This IS odd.
I’d start looking for corroded electrical connections under the dash...

 

[g-man]

I suspect a partially burned ground wire. It has very litte conductivity while cold. As you crank it heats up which increases the conductivity. Just a guess. I'd look at the wires on the ignition switch. You'll need to remove the clam shell on the column and possibly the steering wheel. Also look at the ground wires (white with black stripe) coming off the ignition relay. It's cylindrical and mounted under the drivers side dash. You may have to follow this ground wire into the harness where it ties into many others then follow the largest diameter ground coming off that junction to the ground screw on the metal lower dash just above the fuse panel. Did you ever hook anything up wrong and have it smoke or smell burning wires?

 

[klinetime574]

I would be looking towards what you replaced the fusible links with. I have not had any experience with them, but from my understanding can be very temperamental. Can you post a photo of that for us to look at?

 

[Rusto]

i had similar issues with my 60 earlier this year. Randomly wouldn't turn over at all, then on the 10th attempt to start, the electrical connections would connect and it would fire right up. The radio and clock would be reset. I thought it was the electrical component of the ignition switch (not the tumbler) but before I changed that out, I cleaned all the connections to the battery and starter and such.

I haven't had ANY trouble since (knock on wood).