DENVER: OE Roof Rack Delete and Repair (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Feb 7, 2018
Threads
20
Messages
184
Location
Denver
There are several threads on removing the factory roof rack and filling the holes, which I did awhile back with rubber washers, silicone, and SS screws - but rust is mighty persistent. This quarantine, like most of you, has me checking off boxes on the cruiser that I've always wanted to get around to; the latest of which is taking care of this roof once and for all. That said, I am looking for recommendations in the Denver area for a body shop or repair shop that I can trust this work with. It's come to the point of wanting it done right - drop the headliner, weld in the holes, sand, paint.

Anyone done this locally? I called the body shop I typically take my cars to for jobs like this and they want around 3k (remove the sunroof, front windshield, etc, etc.), which seems excessive. Any help is appreciated!
 
There are several threads on removing the factory roof rack and filling the holes, which I did awhile back with rubber washers, silicone, and SS screws - but rust is mighty persistent. This quarantine, like most of you, has me checking off boxes on the cruiser that I've always wanted to get around to; the latest of which is taking care of this roof once and for all. That said, I am looking for recommendations in the Denver area for a body shop or repair shop that I can trust this work with. It's come to the point of wanting it done right - drop the headliner, weld in the holes, sand, paint.

Anyone done this locally? I called the body shop I typically take my cars to for jobs like this and they want around 3k (remove the sunroof, front windshield, etc, etc.), which seems excessive. Any help is appreciated!
I did what SummitCruisers Junior did, Remove old rack, drill the nutsurts out, sand, dent the holes, Jbweld steel stick, sand, prime, paint, seal!
 
I used SS screws and faucet washers. I remove them once in a while and check for damage or rust, but haven't ever found any. They could probably stand to be replaced, but then again, I've got no rust.

Assuming you want to keep your truck, you have to get it taken care of. I don't see why the windshield would need to come out to fill and do what is mentioned above. Honestly, $2-3k doesn't sound that steep if its going to need painting. Just be aware of how specific a job it is to install a windshield in an 80 series before you agree to have just anyone do it.
 
I got a quote for similar and it was around $2000. A lot of it is labor to remove the headliner and interior, so if you do that yourself you could probably save a ton of money. It's at least $1000 though probably in any case.
 
I did what SummitCruisers Junior did, Remove old rack, drill the nutsurts out, sand, dent the holes, Jbweld steel stick, sand, prime, paint, seal!

How does it look with JB Weld? Do you have any cracking or dimpling? I'd like to do it correctly and have the holes actually welded shut, but the cost might prevent it. The problem I have right now is that I had it at a shop to do this work not too long ago, and instead of finding a permanent solution like they said they did, they bondo'd the holes and painted over them, which, in the contant sun and changing weather in Denver, has already started to crack. I'm afraid of leaks at this point.
 
jb weld, bondo, sand and paint... looks good and does its job, please excuse all the sanding dust!
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Well...for anyone still wondering, I bit the bullet and had the body shop the truck has been at pull the headliner and fill the roof rack holes the right way - weld, grind, seal, paint. I ultimately wanted this thing to look like it came from the factory without a rack, and I think it's going to turn out amazing. Funny enough, when they pulled the headliner and insulation, there was already some water damage from the previous at-home attempt. Lucky we got to it when we did to keep it from getting worse.

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Are you going to add some extra soundproofing while the headliner is off?
 
Are you going to add some extra soundproofing while the headliner is off?
Yep. The old insulation is dated and cant be reused anyway. I purchased two types of insulation and sound proofing to put up in its place - an 80mil butyl adhesive (same type of material as dynamat - will also ensure no water ever gets inside again), as well as a 150mil closed cell foam to go over that. Should provide plenty of noise reduction, as well as hot/cold insulation.
 
Nice! Estimated cost? Where did you have it done?
 
Nice! Estimated cost? Where did you have it done?
All said and done, they quoted me $1800. But I won't have the final bill until sometime this week or next from what I'm told. I've been working with Champa Auto Body. Paul has been incredible to work with over there and they do great work (typically an insurance claims body shop, but they took my project on).
 

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