Delta VS Radius Arms (3 Viewers)

[Dusten]

Sa

Sorry mate, I only know SAS as Solid Axle Swap lol

Sas is also solid axle summit

 

[Delta VS]

Since I get asked on a daily basis, finally made the time to put together a comprehensive document to help make the radius arm choice easier.

edit: typo

 

[shellb]

@Cruisers and Co how good are these?

Believe the comment was I’m only interested in installing these going forward?

Kidding aside…they’re that good.

 

[OGBeno]

@Cruisers and Co how good are these?

Believe the comment was I’m only interested in installing these going forward?

Kidding aside…they’re that good.

We don’t use anything but correction arms from
@Delta VS or Slee. Bushing/brackets to adjust etc are just band aid systems.

For correction you either cut and turn the axles (buku labor) or you buy arms to make the correction.

 

[Broski]

We don’t use anything but correction arms from
@Delta VS or Slee. Bushing/brackets to adjust etc are just band aid systems.

For correction you either cut and turn the axles (buku labor) or you buy arms to make the correction.

So before arms were available ( I know you were rocking a 80 ) you only did cut and turn or did you use plates.

I do think the arms are the best way to go.

But some plates (LandTank) you have to redrllill holes over the existing holes and weld the plates on. And some like me had already done that and then added plates to the frame side mount and redrill to move the axle forward before Dalta Vs arms were available.

At that point it’s just not practical to go back and redo all that work.

Then there the issue of control arm brackets ripping off the axle, Delta and Solvefunction have teamed up and are making plates to weld to the side of the axle brackets to help solve this issue. They’re very similar to Castor correction plates.
Castor plates are already doing that.
So in MO it pretty harsh to call Castro plates just a Band-Aid

For some the custom arms just aren’t in the budget.

If you’re just starting a build and budget isn’t an issue for sure the custom arms are the way to go.

 

[baldilocks]

So before arms were available ( I know you were rocking a 80 ) you only did cut and turn or did you use plates.

I do think the arms are the best way to go.

But some plates (LandTank) you have to redrllill holes over the existing holes and weld the plates on. And some like me had already done that and then added plates to the frame side mount and redrill to move the axle forward before Dalta Vs arms were available.

At that point it’s just not practical to go back and redo all that work.

Then there the issue of control arm brackets ripping off the axle, Delta and Solvefunction have teamed up and are making plates to weld to the side of the axle brackets to help solve this issue. They’re very similar to Castor correction plates.
Castor plates are already doing that.
So in MO it pretty harsh to call Castro plates just a Band-Aid

For some the custom arms just aren’t in the budget.

If you’re just starting a build and budget isn’t an issue for sure the custom arms are the way to go.

I just have one question. What’s a “budget”?

 

[Broski]

I just have one question. What’s a “budget”?

There’s never been one on my build, but if you really need to know Google is you friend

 

[Augustiron]

That's what you say when a bolt is frozen stuck

"I can't budget"

 

[80t0ylc]

I just have one question. What’s a “budget”?

It's something the spouse thinks is a good idea until you don't stick to it. AKA guidelines so you can make car payment, house payment and put food on the table, but rarely adhered to when shopping for parts, upgrades & mods (reality). Don't we know it!

That's what you say when a bolt is frozen stuck

"I can't budget"

BTDT...lol

 

[Delta VS]

EVERY build is a budget build, just with different budgets

 

[Bludozer]

Poly correction bushings just turn to cracked mush pretty quickly with even moderate wheeling and plates just seem ****ing janky. I have one of the original sets of delta arms on my truck and they've been perfect since day one.

 

[Broski]

Poly correction bushings just turn to cracked mush pretty quickly with even moderate wheeling and plates just seem ****ing janky. I have one of the original sets of delta arms on my truck and they've been perfect since day one.

I have had the landtank plates on my rig sense 2015 and they work great they do the same job as the custom arms.
I don’t thing there’s anything ****ing janky about them.
Do I think the custom arms are better probably.
But there also 3 to 4 times the cost, was that the issue for me no.
They were not available when I welded the plate to my brackets.
Now that there available there a excellent option for those with ample budget

 

[spensert5]

I am looking for real world advice on which variant to order before clicking the button. I just lifted my truck with OME 851 + 30mm spring packer (860’s out back). This netted a ~23” hub to fender measurement with bumper, winch, etc., so 2.5”-3” lift. Below was my alignment printout after the lift (factory tire and wheel 97 lx450).

At -1.5* per side, math says I need the 2” arms for an additional 5.3* to net a +3.8* and be perfectly in spec. BUT I have aspirations of one day maybe moving to 37” (2-3 years as my 315s are 90%) and potentially a Slinky or Dobs LT spring. Would I be too far in the positive with the 3” arms at my current setup? Delta spec +7.2* for 3 arms which should net a +5.7* final caster spec on my truck. Is that too far in the + for a solid ride?

I am also looking for opinions on installing DC shaft or not at these lift/caster numbers.

Enough math for Friday night

 

[77mustard40]

I am looking for real world advice on which variant to order before clicking the button. I just lifted my truck with OME 851 + 30mm spring packer (860’s out back). This netted a ~23” hub to fender measurement with bumper, winch, etc., so 2.5”-3” lift. Below was my alignment printout after the lift (factory tire and wheel 97 lx450).

At -1.5* per side, math says I need the 2” arms for an additional 5.3* to net a +3.8* and be perfectly in spec. BUT I have aspirations of one day maybe moving to 37” (2-3 years as my 315s are 90%) and potentially a Slinky or Dobs LT spring. Would I be too far in the positive with the 3” arms at my current setup? Delta spec +7.2* for 3 arms which should net a +5.7* final caster spec on my truck. Is that too far in the + for a solid ride?

I am also looking for opinions on installing DC shaft or not at these lift/caster numbers.

Enough math for Saturday night

My vote is 3” arms if you think you might go taller. DC will be dictated by the pinion angle, if the arms are going line up the pinion with the TC output flange (+ or - 1 degree) then you will be a good DC candidate if you’ve got vibes or “the growl”

 

[baldilocks]

I am looking for real world advice on which variant to order before clicking the button. I just lifted my truck with OME 851 + 30mm spring packer (860’s out back). This netted a ~23” hub to fender measurement with bumper, winch, etc., so 2.5”-3” lift. Below was my alignment printout after the lift (factory tire and wheel 97 lx450).

View attachment 3605760

At -1.5* per side, math says I need the 2” arms for an additional 5.3* to net a +3.8* and be perfectly in spec. BUT I have aspirations of one day maybe moving to 37” (2-3 years as my 315s are 90%) and potentially a Slinky or Dobs LT spring. Would I be too far in the positive with the 3” arms at my current setup? Delta spec +7.2* for 3 arms which should net a +5.7* final caster spec on my truck. Is that too far in the + for a solid ride?

I am also looking for opinions on installing DC shaft or not at these lift/caster numbers.

Enough math for Saturday night

We are more than happy to irrigate you with our opinions but Dave at Delta is the guy to ask about arm choice. He can tell you about how he likes to run 7 plus deg of positive castor. I run their 6” arms with about 4.75” of front lift and liked the 5.6* of castor. Bigger tires like bigger castor and I run 37’s.

Perhaps for now you might run castor correction plates until you settle on what your “permanent” set up will be. I say this bc many members who run 37’s with 3” lift springs run the Delta 3L arms and you don’t really need the Long arms now. I can tell you that a 4” lift will make running 37’s easier especially if you actually plan to exercise the suspension in extreme manner.

All that said, I’d favor fat positive castor now if I was forced to make a choice right now and I were you.

Call Dave S. at Delta.

If you want to run a DC shaft at highway speed smoothly you do need to stay in that 2-3* positive castor range. Following my advice and going with more castor now will locate the front pinion too low for a DC shaft which need 0+\- 1* from a 90* angle formed between the pinion flange and the driveline tube to operate smoothly and smoothly is why we install a DC shaft in the first place.

 

[JoeCova]

I am looking for real world advice on which variant to order before clicking the button. I just lifted my truck with OME 851 + 30mm spring packer (860’s out back). This netted a ~23” hub to fender measurement with bumper, winch, etc., so 2.5”-3” lift. Below was my alignment printout after the lift (factory tire and wheel 97 lx450).

View attachment 3605760

At -1.5* per side, math says I need the 2” arms for an additional 5.3* to net a +3.8* and be perfectly in spec. BUT I have aspirations of one day maybe moving to 37” (2-3 years as my 315s are 90%) and potentially a Slinky or Dobs LT spring. Would I be too far in the positive with the 3” arms at my current setup? Delta spec +7.2* for 3 arms which should net a +5.7* final caster spec on my truck. Is that too far in the + for a solid ride?

I am also looking for opinions on installing DC shaft or not at these lift/caster numbers.

Enough math for Saturday night

I'm running the J Coils which netted me the same amount of lift and with caster correction bushings I had the exact same caster at about -1.7*. Are you running caster correction bushings? If so then you would be about -3.7* uncorrected negative caster.

I went with the 3L from Delta which added about 6.3* and put me back at around +2.6* and I have room to grow to 37s if I choose.

With that lift and caster you shouldnt need a DC shaft, I'm not running one and zero issues at any speed or articulation.

 

[rhc404]

I am looking for real world advice on which variant to order before clicking the button. I just lifted my truck with OME 851 + 30mm spring packer (860’s out back). This netted a ~23” hub to fender measurement with bumper, winch, etc., so 2.5”-3” lift. Below was my alignment printout after the lift (factory tire and wheel 97 lx450).

With ~2.0" measured front lift, the 2" Delta arms netted me 2.2 deg caster. My vote in your case would be for the 3" arms.