Deferred Maintenance Advice For a Rookie Hundy Owner... (1 Viewer)

[suprarx7nut]

@suprarx7nut - regarding the valve cover gasket - I tightened as many of the bolts as I could reach (based on a quick hack I read elsewhere on mud) and the smell is basically gone. Only occasionally do I catch a small draft. At least half were so loose I'm surprised they hadn't fallen out completely.

Good tip, thanks! Next time I have a job in the engine bay I'll try to remember to do that.

 

[Riviera]

If you have a valve cover gasket leak, change the pcv valve also. If the system isn't venting as designed, it will vent at the weakest gasket. It's one of the most overlooked maintenance items.

 

[Gnarwgn]

If you have a valve cover gasket leak, change the pcv valve also. If the system isn't venting as designed, it will vent at the weakest gasket. It's one of the most overlooked maintenance items.

Thanks @Riviera - I've seen that advice scattered across the various VCG strings. Local LC specialist shop recc'd waiting on the job until timing belt replacement is due. Given that the hack of tightening the VCG bolts worked, I'm now willing to wait. I think the issue is the rubber gasket under the head of the bolt deteriorates over time and eventually collapses the bolt. Given that they are spec'd at only 14 lbft (I think, I know its really low) and the heat kicking out of the 4.7L, these things are doomed to fail at some point. I'll make sure to add PCV valve to the list!

 

[Gnarwgn]

DO NOT use a/c stop leak, it will clog your condenser.

You probably have the classic corroded rear a/c line that is guaranteed to happen on these trucks, get the cheapest refrigerant you can becaus eif the rear line does have a hole in it it's all going to leak out anyway until you fix the leak.

Do yourself a favor and buy a a/c recharge hose kit, then you can buy the cans of refridgerent which are super cheap, I buy them when they go one clearence in the fall for like $5 a can. The hose kit lasts forever.

A/C PRO GBM-4 R-134a Air Conditioning Pro Heavy Duty Charging Hose and Gauge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004QQ8SEY/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_tai_P0sBAb7ZAP4Z0

3 Cans R-134a DuPont Suva A/C Automotive Refrigerant/Freon R134a (12oz Cans) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WXBYYR4/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_tai_M1sBAb4ZX9Y65

Thanks again @Spike555 - clarifying question - are you suggesting this as the temporary band aid fix, or rather the ongoing solution? Pumping $5 worth of Freon into the system every so often is a pretty cheap fix. At what point to you suggest going full throttle and fixing the leak? Or are you saying its not really worth the effort?

 

[Spike555]

Thanks again @Spike555 - clarifying question - are you suggesting this as the temporary band aid fix, or rather the ongoing solution? Pumping $5 worth of Freon into the system every so often is a pretty cheap fix. At what point to you suggest going full throttle and fixing the leak? Or are you saying its not really worth the effort?

Throw the cheap stuff in and fill the system, if it lasts you all summer great, life goes on.
If it lasts a week, you're only out a few bucks.
You will need to decide how much your time is worth. I fixed my leak, I spliced the line, added a coupler and refilled the system using the a/c recharge kit from Autozone tool rental, that included the vaccum pump and manifold kit to properly fill the system, but I refilled with cheap R-134a first, no sense spending good money if it's all going to leak out.

For the average over time the freon leaks out because the cars old but theres no actual leak kinda a/c recharge...definetly use the cheap cans.
If all you have to do is add a can or two once a year, no biggy, go that route.

But it's all going to depend on how big the leak is, where it's leaking and how much to fix it. Only you can determine your price point on the repair.

 

[Gnarwgn]

Throw the cheap stuff in and fill the system, if it lasts you all summer great, life goes on.
If it lasts a week, you're only out a few bucks.
You will need to decide how much your time is worth. I fixed my leak, I spliced the line, added a coupler and refilled the system using the a/c recharge kit from Autozone tool rental, that included the vaccum pump and manifold kit to properly fill the system, but I refilled with cheap R-134a first, no sense spending good money if it's all going to leak out.

For the average over time the freon leaks out because the cars old but theres no actual leak kinda a/c recharge...definetly use the cheap cans.
If all you have to do is add a can or two once a year, no biggy, go that route.

But it's all going to depend on how big the leak is, where it's leaking and how much to fix it. Only you can determine your price point on the repair.

Thanks @Spike555 -

Finally got around to doing this (2 months ago), $25, 30 minutes of effort, and 2 months later, blowing ice cold. Great tip!

 

[Spike555]

Thanks @Spike555 -

Finally got around to doing this (2 months ago), $25, 30 minutes of effort, and 2 months later, blowing ice cold. Great tip!

You're welcome, thank you for reporting back.

 

[Gnarwgn]

I’m going to disagree. I own 2 of these trucks and replacing heater t’s can be a real bitch. And, if you get stuck, the truck is dead in the water. My .02.

thanks @tacoduck and @Dwight S for the good debate on the topic of heater T replaement -

To your point @tacoduck - having the truck dead in the water is not an option, my wife drives it daily and I'm a deadman if things go wrong. So reasonably high level of risk there.

That being said to the point being made by @Dwight S - I found this on youtube and it does not look like a very hard job. Again I'm not God's gift to the mechanical world, but to date I've done the following on my own successfully (to give a flavor of my current level), and feel like heater T's are within reach 1) replaced radiator 2) replaced a/c condenser unit 3) recharged a/c 4) retrofitted headlights 5) changed brake pads.

That being said, given the above and after watching the below, I'm looking for a confidence test on if you guys (and others) think I can pull this off in my garage? I'm also 6'4", so the issue of reaching into the correct area to do the work is not an issue in my case:

 

[Dwight S]

I’m 5’-11” and 240 (fat-boy) and I completed it in about an hour, taking my time. I threw some old moving blankets over the intake and using a 3-step ladder, worked around and on top of the engine. As I suggested, replace the tees and hoses. Cut out the old tees so you don’t risk one breaking off and crumbling into your coolant passage. You can replace the clamps too if you want, I reused mine. My limited mechanical experience is similar to yours.

 

[tacoduck]

thanks @tacoduck and @Dwight S for the good debate on the topic of heater T replaement -

To your point @tacoduck - having the truck dead in the water is not an option, my wife drives it daily and I'm a deadman if things go wrong. So reasonably high level of risk there.

That being said to the point being made by @Dwight S - I found this on youtube and it does not look like a very hard job. Again I'm not God's gift to the mechanical world, but to date I've done the following on my own successfully (to give a flavor of my current level), and feel like heater T's are within reach 1) replaced radiator 2) replaced a/c condenser unit 3) recharged a/c 4) retrofitted headlights 5) changed brake pads.

That being said, given the above and after watching the below, I'm looking for a confidence test on if you guys (and others) think I can pull this off in my garage? I'm also 6'4", so the issue of reaching into the correct area to do the work is not an issue in my case:

If you are so inclined, give it a shot. Get a couple of vice grips, and also some belt clamps. Autoparts stores carry them. I reused the hoses on both, and so far, no leaks. Take the engine cover off for easy access. Also, a nice stepping stool really helps. Good Luck!

 

[Colorado kid]

You can do it! Im a hack; I pinched fingers, lost some crumbles into the system, ripped the hose said crumbles fell into, and replaced ripped hose with some generic coolant hose then drove it to Albuquerque and back in one day the next week. It runs great! I believe you’re being humble

 

[BudgetLC]

I would suggest getting some flexible hose clamp pliers (I bought the OTC 4525). Not the cheapest tool but made the job relatively easy.

 

[Gnarwgn]

Guys thanks for all the great advice - one final question here - do I just go for replacing the 2 plastic heater t's and leave the hose in place, or do I go ahead and replace the 2 heater t's and 6 connecting hoses at the same time?

I'd prefer to do the 'full solution' but also trend towards overkill. I think replacing the hoses makes the job alot more difficult, but I'm willing to go the extra mile if its worth the time? But I also need somebody to tell me when I'm being an idiot...

Thanks!

 

[Riviera]

Personally, I was more comfortable doing all of the hoses at the same time. Hoses ARE maintenance item and I had about 180K miles and felt I'd rather replace them now, then on the side of the road.

 

[tacoduck]

Guys thanks for all the great advice - one final question here - do I just go for replacing the 2 plastic heater t's and leave the hose in place, or do I go ahead and replace the 2 heater t's and 6 connecting hoses at the same time?

I'd prefer to do the 'full solution' but also trend towards overkill. I think replacing the hoses makes the job alot more difficult, but I'm willing to go the extra mile if its worth the time? But I also need somebody to tell me when I'm being an idiot...

Thanks!

I didn't do the hoses... mine looked fine. My truck has 290k miles on it.

 

[2001LC]

If hoses look swollen, then replace. Use caution not to put undue strain on the hot water pipe coming from engine on DS.

 

[Gnarwgn]

Good news -

Successfully replaced last night, and just in time. One of two heater t's had started to disintegrate.

Used a pair of long reach needle nose pliers, and started by spraying the t's/hoses down with windex, which helped loosen up the hose clamps.

Opted to not replace all 6 hoses as I'm only at 150k and see no visible hose issues. Also seems like that would have made the job much more time consuming and just wasn't feeling it.

Thanks for all the great advice, finally checked this critical item off my list!

 

[collk22]

I'm in a similar boat with respect to doing my own maintenance; two kids under 3, little time, blah blah blah. My advice is to outsource the most important items and make a plan to slowly chip away at the less important / small ticket items that you can do yourself. Outsourcing is more expensive, but if time is of the essence and you don't have multiple days for the truck to be down while you learn as you go, then paying an expert to get it done quickly and correctly is money well spent.

 

[Gnarwgn]

@collk22 glad somebody else is in this parenthood+land cruiser boat as well, haha -

Next question - take the LC into the local yota stealership for oil changes, because its 1 mile away from the house and I like their diagnostic/evaluation. I also expect the upsell every time, and on cue today they called me mid service and informed that rear rotors/pads are ready for replacement. Pads at 2mm (I think its mm) and rotors beyond machining. They wanted $450 and I punted.

I can't punt for long as I have upcoming road trips, brakes an essential component of road trip success. I also don't want to do this work myself. Pads are one thing, rotors pushes me out of the comfort zone. And then there is that ongoing issue with time...

Anyway - looking for best thoughts on how to go about get this done. Calipers are apparently fine. @2001LC I see you have some pretty good feedback elsewhere in the blog regarding brake work specific to DIY, let me know if you have any golden nuggets for outsourcing

 

[TorchRedTulsan]

@collk22 glad somebody else is in this parenthood+land cruiser boat as well, haha -

Next question - take the LC into the local yota stealership for oil changes, because its 1 mile away from the house and I like their diagnostic/evaluation. I also expect the upsell every time, and on cue today they called me mid service and informed that rear rotors/pads are ready for replacement. Pads at 2mm (I think its mm) and rotors beyond machining. They wanted $450 and I punted.

I can't punt for long as I have upcoming road trips, brakes an essential component of road trip success. I also don't want to do this work myself. Pads are one thing, rotors pushes me out of the comfort zone. And then there is that ongoing issue with time...

Anyway - looking for best thoughts on how to go about get this done. Calipers are apparently fine. @2001LC I see you have some pretty good feedback elsewhere in the blog regarding brake work specific to DIY, let me know if you have any golden nuggets for outsourcing

I just joined, don't have my LC yet (Scheduled to pick it up next week, fingers crossed), but I'm on the east side in Kirkland. I know your time is limited, but I'd be more than happy to have you come over and we can tackle those brakes together.