- Thread starter
- #21
I did not, I’m very lucky as I only live an hour or so from OTRAMM, one day I’ll get it up there and have him look. It’s not horrible or even bad, so I haven’t messed with it. Has not gotten worse.
Deep Humming Sound (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Hokie99
- Start date
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Hey all - I am having the same issue. This humming occurred after the suspension lift. Front diff drop has been done and OEM shafts. Started with replacing wheel bearings, had national showed some wear, not very loose compared to most I see. Replaced with Timken. Small aftermarket cv’s replaced with Cardone HD. Noise changed but still there. That’s the only point it really changed. Vibration went away just a hum 50-65. Lowered loft and seemed to reduce noise but still there. Replaced cv with oem. No change, dropped front drive shaft, no change, removed drive flanges, no change, did an x tire rotation , no change front flanges and shaft installed removed rear drive shaft no change. Changed tires 30-35psi. Maybe slight change but splitting hairs. Have shifted transmission and transfercase to N at 60 ish no change
Looked at fluids in both diffs and transfer case, diffs show wear but no smoking gun and isolated with drive shaft removal.
Next steps are alignment check and tire/wheel change to assess noise change. Any help or thoughts would be appreciated.
Looked at fluids in both diffs and transfer case, diffs show wear but no smoking gun and isolated with drive shaft removal.
Next steps are alignment check and tire/wheel change to assess noise change. Any help or thoughts would be appreciated.
2001LC
SILVER Star
Alignment does change a bit, even with diff drop.
Swapping on a set of soft tires, of known sound. May help isolate. It's a sure way to eliminate, tire sound as culprit.
Should not have any play, whatsoever!
What was condition of needle bearings. Best clue is where the needle bearings ride on outer axle of FDS (AKA: cv)
This FDS axle had less than 2K miles on it. Needle bearing scored axle, unevenly. Notice the different and narrow bands of color variation. Replacing needle bearing illmated, the unusual rotational sounds.
GoPro attached to FL, help me islote sound.
This would reduce angle on FDS. If hub flange snap ring gap to wide, it may result in slight change where needle bearing, knuckle & FDS outer seal butt/rub and contact with brass bushing.
I'd then, for sure swap on some quit tires.
May want to try, after tire swap and inspecting FDS axle. Switching gear lubes one gear box at a time. Maybe even add some gear lube additive.
Very good next step. I keep a set of soft tires on wheels, that ride very quiet. They work great as a tool, to rule out tires.
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I finally solved my noise by replacing needle bearings and bushings in the knuckles and giving it a good hand full of grease everywhere. Also did all the steps you mentioned above, but a knuckle rebuild was the solution.
Interesting! I did a full rebuild of every bearing and seal on the both front axles and it made no different in hum/vibration for me.
Must be wheel/tire in my case
This is kind of surprising? @GerLC100 , I see you are following the other mega thread about what sounds like a very similar issue. (If not the same issue?)
Curious the status of your driveshafts and/or tires? Also curious if you think your issue is similar to what is being talked about in that other thread?
I have a very similar issue that is also perplexing me right around 50-55mph. If this is really part of the solution this makes me nervous as I just had my hubs off and didn't change these out.
(Although I did clean out the grease well and put in new synthetic grease)I'm personally leaning towards a new drive shaft(s) the next time they do the 25% off sale.
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What wheel, tire, lift combo are you running? I’m on OME 2” lift and 33” tires. I’ve got a low “wah wah wah” between 20 and 30mph. New front wheel bearings, but I think it’s the front needle bearings and brass bushings that may be causing my irritating noises. 220k miles on my rig. Almost every part new up-front except needle bearings and diff bearings.
As someone who's also chasing noise/vibration - if possible, try (safely) getting your vehicle up in the air, and running it up to speed. Even better, take a driveshaft out and lock the center diff so you're only spinning one set of wheels.
That's what finally let me figure out I had a bad rear wheel bearing - the bearing was tight (no 3/9 or 12/6 play) and made no discernable noise initially when I would spin the wheels. I pulled the front drive shaft, lifted and supported the rear of the vehicle, and noticed I got a weird 'tire-out-of-balance' shake at 40-50 MPH, even with roadforce balanced tires. Tore everything down to check runout of both of the rear hubs, put it all back together, and suddenly my drivers side rear wheel bearing was making an awful 'thunk thunk thunk' (like a big ratchet) noise when I spun it by hand.
Also of note - when I've been driving the vehicle, I couldn't really tell you where the vibration was coming from, but with the rear axle up in the air and spinning at speed while the vehicle was stationary, it was obvious that it was coming from the rear. I think the 100 series frame is super bad about transmitting vibration, so tracking stuff down is hard. Like, 8 pages and on-going hard, hahaha: Painful low frequency drone/pressure in cabin - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/painful-low-frequency-drone-pressure-in-cabin.1344485/
