well i just stained my small deck attached to my townhouse..bought the 5 gallon Olympic Cedar color protectant for $70....supposed to last 5 yrs...will see how long it will last
Deck protection ideas needed (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Zack1978
- Start date
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Wood perservation is a slippery slope. The only rule is the more pigment that is added, the longer it will last. Oil based products will penatrate deeper and last longer. Just wash with a H2O/bleach/soap mixture. This will kill mold and mildew that prevent it from bonding to the wood. Sanding is not practical to do every year, but does have advantages once in awhile. For more info contact the WRCLA (Western Red Cedar Lumber Assn) they have lots of good info. The brand of perservative that will be best for you depends on the climate you live in. Good luck
pave it. 
hoser
SILVER Star
I had a new Ipe wood (Brazillian Hardwood) a few months ago. I suppose now it is dry enough to protect. The wood was beautiful when it was first installed. Now, it is looking dry and starting to get that silvery finish. What do you experts recommend? Penafin? CWF-UV Clear? The deck is on the north side and only sees very mild climate.
hoser said:
First of all, I stay away from Penofin! The more you use the darker the wood gets and it doesn't look natural anymore. When your wood gets that grayish-silver look, get some wood restorer. They sell it at any hardware store for about $10 per gallon. Use it before you put the finish on. I am not an expert, but I do it for a living. Build them, restore them, and finish them. My first choice for finish is CWF-UV Clear. Don't use anything that comes is cedar tone or redwood tone, they will make the wood liook unnatural.
TLCA #7721
93 fz 80 arb/ ome / kaymar tire carrier
87 fj 60 work truck
75 fj 40
Hatman,
Mine's been looking good since May of '04 so a little over a year. I think the trick is to follow their directions explicitly. If you have something cracking off, then it sounds like you didn't wipe the entire deck down with a rag to remove thick spots and also to work the stuff in. Must be the thick spots cracking as they simply sat atop the wood and hardened into a plate.
I don't have to repost six months from now - nothing went awry and it looks great this year. I cleaned it with soapy water and a broom last month, let it dry in the hot sun, then applied another protective coating - being sure to wipe it down as instructed. Just like last year, application darkened the red wood a few shades, but within a week it had lightened back up to normal.
The best part is looking out the window in a rainstorm and watching the rain drops dance around like they're on a freshly waxed car paint - job satisfaction rating 100%!!!!!!
DougM
Mine's been looking good since May of '04 so a little over a year. I think the trick is to follow their directions explicitly. If you have something cracking off, then it sounds like you didn't wipe the entire deck down with a rag to remove thick spots and also to work the stuff in. Must be the thick spots cracking as they simply sat atop the wood and hardened into a plate.
I don't have to repost six months from now - nothing went awry and it looks great this year. I cleaned it with soapy water and a broom last month, let it dry in the hot sun, then applied another protective coating - being sure to wipe it down as instructed. Just like last year, application darkened the red wood a few shades, but within a week it had lightened back up to normal.
The best part is looking out the window in a rainstorm and watching the rain drops dance around like they're on a freshly waxed car paint - job satisfaction rating 100%!!!!!!
DougM
OUr house is shingled in Cedar.
When dealing with cedar, you need oil based materials. (This is the advice of our paint person who helped us pick out our stuff for the house. It's a family owned paint store that has been in town since the 20s, so paint is their business and they know it well.)
The way he explained it is that cedar is a very oily wood naturally, and has a tendency to bleed it's oils and resins, and this will cause stuff to peel if it is not oil based.
I personally cannot vouch for him being right as it's only been a couple of months.
Additionally, he recommended against using transparent or semi-transparet stains on cedar.
Fred
When dealing with cedar, you need oil based materials. (This is the advice of our paint person who helped us pick out our stuff for the house. It's a family owned paint store that has been in town since the 20s, so paint is their business and they know it well.)
The way he explained it is that cedar is a very oily wood naturally, and has a tendency to bleed it's oils and resins, and this will cause stuff to peel if it is not oil based.
I personally cannot vouch for him being right as it's only been a couple of months.
Additionally, he recommended against using transparent or semi-transparet stains on cedar.
Fred
I built a deck (actually two) last year, pine, sealed every board with Cabot before install, and another coat after. 8 months, same thing has happened as what you have going on. Not a happy customer.
Stripping it and trying something new this weekend.
Stripping it and trying something new this weekend.
- Thread starter
- #29
Well all these years later we finally got around to using the cwf-uv. I think the deck came out great, I am very happy with it. Time will tell how well it holds up. We sanded it down first, then did the cwf-uv. It is amazing how nice the cedar looks
We did use Wolman stain, and it was not bad at first, but then it started to blacken.
Zack
We did use Wolman stain, and it was not bad at first, but then it started to blacken.
Zack
agomez
Frijoles
just keep in mind that wood will always have to be maintained
agomez
Frijoles
jesus man quit stalking me
leave jesus out of this
I know this is really old, but I missed it the first time around and couldn't just let it go.
Ipe' is an entirely different wood than the cedar and redwood everybody else has been talking about. It will always fade to a lighter gray color - there's not much you can do about that except keep it out of the sun. The wood is so dense and oily that rot isn't really a concern. Wood restorer will not work on it. I'm not familiar with CWF-UV, but I recommend Penofin all the time for ironwood decks that I build and haven't had a complaint yet.
If you paid the $$ to have an Ipe' deck installed and the contractor didn't warn you beforehand about the expected color change, that's his fault and I'd raise hell. I always show pictures of before and after to make sure the client understands. I usually recommend picture-framing an Ipe' deck with a couple runs of Ulin. Ulin is very similar to Ipe', and almost the same color from the mill, but it actually darkens as it weathers so the frame adds a nice color contrast over time.
First of all, I stay away from Penofin! The more you use the darker the wood gets and it doesn't look natural anymore. When your wood gets that grayish-silver look, get some wood restorer. They sell it at any hardware store for about $10 per gallon. Use it before you put the finish on. I am not an expert, but I do it for a living. Build them, restore them, and finish them. My first choice for finish is CWF-UV Clear. Don't use anything that comes is cedar tone or redwood tone, they will make the wood liook unnatural.
TLCA #7721
93 fz 80 arb/ ome / kaymar tire carrier
87 fj 60 work truck
75 fj 40
hat used to be understandable
Deck.
First, I would never power wash cedar, I use Sikkens they have many different products. Cetol SRD is a one coat and they have a two coat that is also great. Pm me if you want to chat about it.
First, I would never power wash cedar, I use Sikkens they have many different products. Cetol SRD is a one coat and they have a two coat that is also great. Pm me if you want to chat about it.
- Thread starter
- #38
First, I would never power wash cedar, I use Sikkens they have many different products. Cetol SRD is a one coat and they have a two coat that is also great. Pm me if you want to chat about it.
Yeah, I don't think we will ever powerwash it again, as the wood is so soft. However since it was sanded, it is perfect.
Zack
Another vote for Penofin-on cedar. The darkening of the wood is subtle, not dramatic.
Stay away from water based "sealants"
Use a linsead or rosewood oil based "stain," (Penofin, Sun Frog, may not be available in your area.) You must have a tint, try a "cedar tone" otherwise there is no UV protection and your deck will gray out in a year or so, clear only protects against water not the sun.
Re-finish/re-stain in 2 yrs, use a cleaner and lightly powerwash, heavy powerwashing raises the grain and destroys decks over time. Then every 3 yrs or so.
I owned a deck refinishing company in HS and college summers (by owned I mean I had a truck and a powerwasher).
Use a linsead or rosewood oil based "stain," (Penofin, Sun Frog, may not be available in your area.) You must have a tint, try a "cedar tone" otherwise there is no UV protection and your deck will gray out in a year or so, clear only protects against water not the sun.
Re-finish/re-stain in 2 yrs, use a cleaner and lightly powerwash, heavy powerwashing raises the grain and destroys decks over time. Then every 3 yrs or so.
I owned a deck refinishing company in HS and college summers (by owned I mean I had a truck and a powerwasher).
