Deciphering PO’s A/C Wiring (1 Viewer)

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dogcruiser

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Winter Park, FL
My 60 came without an AC button and just a DYI light bulb in its place. As I looked into it further this light connects to another DIY piece (rheostat?) and I’m not sure exactly what’s going on. I was hoping maybe I could get some insight. I purchased and installed an AC switch but the wires don’t reach to the place where the DIY solution plugs in. It’s all very confusing. I have some photos. I don’t think the forum allows for videos. I started at the light (that was attached where the AC button used to be) and followed the wires where they attached to the next piece. Then from there is goes to something else with a fabricated piece of metal and a knob (?). 😁

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@MoaByte Great first step. I will have to look. Didn’t even know there was one 😊. I just searched for it online and found some information on that. The A/C Amp Thread

My guess is that they rigged up a custom version of the blue knob. Hopefully the original is still in there. I’ll take a look
 
is the rest of the a/c system stock? not all 60 series came with a/c
 
I never could find the amplifier or anything resembling the photos I saw online. Here are a few more photos of my setup. I’m getting the feeling that I didn’t have factory AC. Maybe that’s why they rigged up a light in place of where the AC button usually sits.

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I never could find the amplifier or anything resembling the photos I saw online. Here are a few more photos of my setup. I’m getting the feeling that I didn’t have factory AC. Maybe that’s why they rigged up a light in place of where the AC button usually sits.

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that is not a stock setup, most likely your 60 series did not have a/c and a PO added it. this is not the first one I've seen.
you'll be on your own figuring this mess out as there are only a few of them out there.
it should be a simple setup, fused power thru a preasure switch to an on/off switch to the compressor
not sure what the rheostat is for.
 
I'm in a similar situation. I have a BJ60 which had some DIY AC install.... running with no pressure cut out switch!

It may be hard to do anything with yours as it's a bunch of bits of unknown origin and wiring... if you're willing to throw some money at it the best solution may be to make it as close to standard as possible.

I don't see a stock evaporator box under your dash, so who knows what you'll find in there. Having the AC expansion valve in the engine bay is new to me!

But to get back to your wiring problem, there should be 3, possibly 4 plugs coming out of the harness running under the top dash pad.

A big plug going to a small harness on the evaporator box, a single pin plug going to the same (which actuates the compressor clutch and AC idle up vacuum solenoid valve). Then there is a three pin plug to the back of the AC switch, and possibly a two pin plug in case yours has a variable resistor on the temperature slider.

Hopefully this helps you see what is and isn't there on your wiring harness. This assumes yours has wiring for AC in the first place.

If you just want to wire up the switch, it needs three cables, one to actuate the AC circuitry, a ground, and a 12v feed for (I think) the bulb in there.

EO
 
Is yours happen to be a HJ60 24V? Mine is 1986 HJ60 24V from Germany and it had exactly same evaporator box and rheostat but didn’t have compressor and hoses when I got it. Wiring and plugs look exactly same. But unfortunately I can’t help with wiring cause I removed everything and swapped with later fj60 evap box and HJ61 compressor and pieces.
 
The knob is connected to the AC evap temp sensor. It sets the low temp cutout point.
Thank you for the info. I’m going to try and make it as close to factory as possible. I have an AC button now and id like that to work along with
I'm in a similar situation. I have a BJ60 which had some DIY AC install.... running with no pressure cut out switch!

It may be hard to do anything with yours as it's a bunch of bits of unknown origin and wiring... if you're willing to throw some money at it the best solution may be to make it as close to standard as possible.

I don't see a stock evaporator box under your dash, so who knows what you'll find in there. Having the AC expansion valve in the engine bay is new to me!

But to get back to your wiring problem, there should be 3, possibly 4 plugs coming out of the harness running under the top dash pad.

A big plug going to a small harness on the evaporator box, a single pin plug going to the same (which actuates the compressor clutch and AC idle up vacuum solenoid valve). Then there is a three pin plug to the back of the AC switch, and possibly a two pin plug in case yours has a variable resistor on the temperature slider.

Hopefully this helps you see what is and isn't there on your wiring harness. This assumes yours has wiring for AC in the first place.

If you just want to wire up the switch, it needs three cables, one to actuate the AC circuitry, a ground, and a 12v feed for (I think) the bulb in there.

EO
awesome thank you for the help @Eurasiaoverland. It’s a bit frustrating as I am new LCs and the PO really glossed over a lot of things like this and he’s owned enough of them to know better. And I’m the type of personality who tends to throw good money after bad to make everything right.

that’s great information. Now to decide which direction I’m going with this truck. I really didn’t want to tear it all apart but AC isn’t an option (at least the weather is cooling down) so it’s either throw money at this or buy a different truck 🤑😭

My question is this: should I dismantle the whole dash as I troubleshoot and tackle this? Or is everything accessible from underneath?
 
Is yours happen to be a HJ60 24V? Mine is 1986 HJ60 24V from Germany and it had exactly same evaporator box and rheostat but didn’t have compressor and hoses when I got it. Wiring and plugs look exactly same. But unfortunately I can’t help with wiring cause I removed everything and swapped with later fj60 evap box and HJ61 compressor and pieces.

Its a 12v FJ60... at least I think it is!
 
Thank you for the info. I’m going to try and make it as close to factory as possible. I have an AC button now and id like that to work along with

awesome thank you for the help @Eurasiaoverland. It’s a bit frustrating as I am new LCs and the PO really glossed over a lot of things like this and he’s owned enough of them to know better. And I’m the type of personality who tends to throw good money after bad to make everything right.

that’s great information. Now to decide which direction I’m going with this truck. I really didn’t want to tear it all apart but AC isn’t an option (at least the weather is cooling down) so it’s either throw money at this or buy a different truck 🤑😭

My question is this: should I dismantle the whole dash as I troubleshoot and tackle this? Or is everything accessible from underneath?

I'm the same. I've got my hands on every bit of the system now, bar the idle up VSV and perhaps the engine bracket. I'm afraid to say that not one piece of your system looks like it's the correct Denso / Toyota part. Luckily, in the US replacement Denso parts are easy to get, you'll just need the find the engine bracket and cooler box, compressor manifold valves and maybe the hoses from used parts. The new wiring tails and plugs you'll need for your loom are also still available.

You'll definitely want to take off the top dash pad to access the wiring and mounting bolts for the blower, heater box and the big connecting duct where presumably the evaporator is located.

EO
 
I'm the same. I've got my hands on every bit of the system now, bar the idle up VSV and perhaps the engine bracket. I'm afraid to say that not one piece of your system looks like it's the correct Denso / Toyota part. Luckily, in the US replacement Denso parts are easy to get, you'll just need the find the engine bracket and cooler box, compressor manifold valves and maybe the hoses from used parts.

if the Po wants to go OEM he will need lots of other parts also.
the PO will also need a 3 groove crank pulley along with the motor mount, tensioner, alternator bracket and tensioner along with everything else you mentioned
 
I have the factory AC manual for FJ60. Publication RAC-015 Mar 1981
It includes AC wiring. It does not include compressor rebuilding.
If it will help, I'll loan it to you.
PM an address.
 
if the Po wants to go OEM he will need lots of other parts also.
the PO will also need a 3 groove crank pulley along with the motor mount, tensioner, alternator bracket and tensioner along with everything else you mentioned

I appreciate the details. I don’t need it to be OEM but I think it makes sense to try and reconfigure things so that it resembles a factory setup, even if that means aftermarket parts. I’d like to be able to use the A/C button as well as incorporate the AC amplifier so everything can work as intended.I’ll start putting together a list of parts that I’ll need.

with the 3-belt setup is the AC on a dedicated belt with its own tensioner?
 
I appreciate the details. I don’t need it to be OEM but I think it makes sense to try and reconfigure things so that it resembles a factory setup, even if that means aftermarket parts. I’d like to be able to use the A/C button as well as incorporate the AC amplifier so everything can work as intended.I’ll start putting together a list of parts that I’ll need.

with the 3-belt setup is the AC on a dedicated belt with its own tensioner?

yes a/c has it's own belt and tensions off the bottom of the alternator bracket.
 
that is not a stock setup, most likely your 60 series did not have a/c and a PO added it. this is not the first one I've seen.
you'll be on your own figuring this mess out as there are only a few of them out there.
it should be a simple setup, fused power thru a preasure switch to an on/off switch to the compressor
not sure what the rheostat is for.

This looks identical to mine. Except instead of the button/light someone put in a toggle switch but I have the same rheostat and relay. Trying to figure it out. I think the A/C amplifier is supposed to be mounted on the top of the evaporator box. I was hoping it could be accessed via removing the glove box only and not the whole dash.
 
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