Dealership cant program keys due to weak door actuator??? (1 Viewer)

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I don't have a solution, unfortunately, but this does seem somewhat plausible since I believe you have to lock and unlock the doors several times in quick succession. I programmed a key for the 4Runner I used to have and its actuators had trouble keeping up, though I was able to do it.
 
Same thing happened to me. I went to have new keys programed and so they had to erase the old program to do so. Well, in 98 if they erase the key program you have to replace the ECU (computer). They tried to charge me a ton of money blah blah blah. But after 2 weeks I got a new computer and 2 new keys for $47, the cost he quoted me to program my new key when I first took it in. Then, the key buttons didn't work and they said it was the drivers door actuator. I bought 5 new actuator motors off ebay and will install them soon.
 
At one time (maybe still do), LX's that needed a new ECU with lost key situation, Lexus would pay for the ECU if the customer bought a new master key and paid for programming and the install of the ECU.

If you are down to one master, tuck it away or have another one made is my recommendation. It's a huge pain if you lose that key and ECU can't be programmed at dealer, especially on the road. I take an extra set with me just in case.
 
Programming a Transponder Key for 99 TLC

Some where in this thread you can find the correct information to locate the motors from eBay and info on disassembly of the door actuator assembly.

I tried sourcing the motors from jon harris before attempting the fix, no response ever, and multiple people have also. As ton504 mentioned, and I know another member successfully tried in a thread I started and was able to do the programming sequence manually.
 
TXLX100 said:
At one time (maybe still do), LX's that needed a new ECU with lost key situation, Lexus would pay for the ECU if the customer bought a new master key and paid for programming and the install of the ECU.

If you are down to one master, tuck it away or have another one made is my recommendation. It's a huge pain if you lose that key and ECU can't be programmed at dealer, especially on the road. I take an extra set with me just in case.
Click to expand...
They told me it was an ECU screw up on the 1998 only and they would replace it for free, but I have to pay the cost of labor and I also had to buy 2 new keys. That was like $600 I think. I told them that the Toyota certified mechanics should know about this, and the service writer should have a "red flag" in his system saying that they cannot re-program a 98 ECU. But, they didn't know about this before they erased it, so I eventually had to raise my voice which took 2 weeks. If they quote $47 and then leave me with a car that doesn't run, then I think its their responsibility to fix. Crazy.
 
kelly saad said:
They told me it was an ECU screw up on the 1998 only and they would replace it for free, but I have to pay the cost of labor and I also had to buy 2 new keys. That was like $600 I think. I told them that the Toyota certified mechanics should know about this, and the service writer should have a "red flag" in his system saying that they cannot re-program a 98 ECU. But, they didn't know about this before they erased it, so I eventually had to raise my voice which took 2 weeks. If they quote $47 and then leave me with a car that doesn't run, then I think its their responsibility to fix. Crazy.
Click to expand...

You are right and they should have taken care of you. Those kinds of things happen though unfortunately. If you aren't having luck with the dealer on an issue, elevate to the GM, then the manufacturer. When I was writing service, I had a laminated sheet with a matrix that showed all the models and if the ECU was programmable or not. The dealer I was at used to require purchase of two keys, but later changed the policy because to one key because the "two key" requirement wasn't formal. It was basically so the customer didn't find themselves in the same situation again, and Lexus was only buying one ECU for the life of the vehicle.

Door lock thread--- https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/door-lock-actuator-replacement.237827/
 
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Fwiw the actuators on their last leg will overheat easier if the ambient temp is warm.
In the heat of the day you might get one or two quick cycles then is stops working.

If it's cold outside you won't notice the problem as often.
 
sweet trav said:
So is there an option to fix this without paying nearly $400 per door actuator?

Thanks for any help,
T

99LC
Click to expand...
you get small electric motor from the e-mail take your actuator apart and chance them - that is all that it takes price is $20 for 4
 
ton504 said:
Manually lock and unlock the sequence to program the buttons
Click to expand...

I have a 2000 LC with weak actuators and I was able to successfully program a new key fob just now by manually locking/unlocking the drivers door only (rather than pressing the master button that controls all the locks per the instructions).

I must have tried 30x using the power door lock/unlock sequence and was about to give up but then found this thread and tried the manual lock/unlock and it worked the first time! Now I've got a spare fully functioning key with the fob buttons. Thanks!!
 
Try your locks with either a battery charger that has a "start" mode that really cranks up the amps or perhaps a jump start from someone with their engine running about 2000 rpm or higher.

Let me explain: I was having alternator issues and was not quite getting a 12 volt charge from my alternator. I was also having issues with my alarm also always going off when I just unlocked the drivers door and opening it. Eventually I installed a 240 amp (you don't need to be that extreme) and both my odyssey batteries now charge at almost 14 volts AND I have not any issues with the alarm going off when just unlocking the drivers door.

Point is, I think that as the actuators get long in tooth, they need a little more juice to make them throw.

Try doing your own programming following the instructions below and I have a funny feeling you'll be okay ;):
The below information applies to the 4C and 4D transponder keys. The 4C is 1998-2002 also referred to as the “sequence E” programming steps; all steps below work for programming that key. The 4D chip is for 2003+ 100 series, also referred to as “sequence I” programming steps; many steps below will work for all 03+, however the ECU can not be programmed for 03-04 start capability without a computer per FSM (05+ should program with these steps from what I have read).

Also, please note that timing is critical, you must be spot on. If a sequence fails try again making sure the timing is exact. If you are still unable to program the new key into the ECU you may have too many keys programmed; there can be up to 5 master keys and 3 valet keys (per 03-04 FSM). If unsure you can clear all but one master key and program/reprogram any existing keys.

Tell what key you have:
To determine if the key(s) have been properly programmed into the ECM you may utilize the following procedure:

  1. Positively locate the “security” or “anti-theft” light. This light should blink when there is no key in the ignition or if an unrecognized key is placed into the ignition.
  2. Insert the key you have into the ignition – DO NOT TURN ON. There are 3 possible things that may occur:

  • Security light continues to blink = unrecognized key.
  • Security light goes off IMMEDIATELY = MASTER key
  • Security light remains illuminated for 1-3 seconds before going out = VALET key
***FOR ALL PROCEDURES BELOW make sure you start with the following steps unless otherwise stated:

  1. All windows are up
  2. All doors are shut and locked except for the drivers door which should be unlocked

Delete all but one master key:
To delete all but one key from the unit (ECM):

  1. Simultaneously depress and release brake and accelerator pedals 1 time.
  2. Insert an existing master key into the ignition cylinder. Do not turn the key from the OFF (LOCK) position.
  3. Within fifteen seconds of inserting the key, depress and release the accelerator pedal six times.
  4. Within twenty seconds of completing the above step, depress and release the brake pedal seven times.
  5. The security light will flash, indicating all keys other than the one being used have been deleted.
  6. Remove the key from the ignition cylinder within ten seconds.

***Alternative method possibly for sequence I vehicles (2003+)

  1. Insert Master Key and Cycle ignition 6 times (Lock to on then back to lock)
  2. Within 35 seconds open and close Drivers side door 7 (seven) times.
  3. Remove the key from the ignition cylinder within ten seconds.

Program new key (sequence E):

  1. Simultaneously depress and release brake and accelerator pedals 1 time.
  2. Insert existing master key into ignition.
  3. Within 15 seconds depress and release accelerator pedal 5 times.
  4. Within 20 seconds depress and release the brake pedal 6 times and remove key.
  5. Within 10 seconds insert new key into ignition.
  6. Within 10 seconds depress and release the accelerator pedal 1 time.
  7. After 80 seconds new key is registered and security light goes off.
  8. Remove new key and depress and release brake pedal 1 time.

Program new key (sequence I – 2003+):

  1. Simultaneously depress and release brake and accelerator pedals 1 time.
  2. Insert existing master key into ignition.
  3. Within 15 seconds depress and release accelerator pedal 5 times.
  4. Within 20 seconds open and close the “driver side” door 6 times and remove key.
  5. Within 10 seconds insert new key into ignition.
  6. Turn the ignition cylinder ON and leave on for two minutes.
  7. Turn ignition cylinder OFF and remove new key
  8. Open and close the “driver side” door 1 (one) time.
  9. After 60 seconds new key is registered and security light goes off.
  10. Remove new key and depress and release brake pedal 1 time.

Erase Remote Procedure (years this works on unknown):

  1. Make sure no keys are in the ignition lock and the drivers door is open and unlocked.
  2. Put the key in the ignition and remove it.
  3. Press the lock button for 1 second, press the unlock button for 1 second and repeat 5 times.
  4. Close the drivers door and open it.
  5. Press the lock button for 1 second, press the unlock button for 1 second and repeat 5 times.
  6. Put the key in the ignition.
  7. Turn ignition ON for 1 second and then off for 1 second then on for 1 second and remove key.
  8. The power door locks should cycle 2 times.
  9. Press the lock and unlock button for 2 seconds, then press the unlock for 1 second.
  10. If the remote is programmed the doors will cycle once. If failed the doors will cycle 2 times.
  11. Open drivers door to end procedure.

Program Remote: (sequence E)
1. Start with key out of ignition, drivers door is open all others closed and driver’s door is unlocked.
2. Insert key into the ignition (Do NOT Turn) and Pull key out.
3. Perform these steps within 40 seconds.

  • Using the power lock switch on the drivers door, perform 5 lock/unlock cycles starting with lock. Use an even pace and try to go about one cycle per second. (1Cycle = 1 lock and 1 unlock).
  • Close, then open drivers door.
4. Perform these steps within 40 seconds.

  • Using the power lock switch on the drivers door, perform 5 lock/unlock cycles starting with lock. Use an even pace and try to go about one cycle per second. (1Cycle = 1 lock and 1 unlock).
  • Insert the key in the ignition cylinder.
  • Turn the ignition to ON (Do NOT Start) then back to OFF.
  • Remove the key from the ignition.
5. Within 3 seconds the power door locks should cycle automatically indicating successful entry into programming mode. Return to step 1 if the locks do not cycle at this point.
6. Perform these steps within 40 seconds.

  • Press the lock and unlock buttons on the remote simultaneously for 1 second.
  • Immediately after letting go of the lock and unlock buttons, press the lock button by itself and hold for 2 seconds. Within 3 seconds, the door locks should cycle once indicating successful programming. If the door locks do not cycle, or cycle twice. Repeat steps A and B in step 6 as your remote has not been accepted.
  • Repeat steps A and B in step 6 for each new remote.
7. Close drivers door.
Program Remote: (sequence I – 2003+)
1. Start with the key out of the ignition, drivers door is open all others closed and
drivers door is unlocked.
2. Perform these steps within 5 seconds.

  • Insert the key into the ignition(Do NOT Turn) Pull key out.
  • Insert the key into the ignition(Do NOT Turn) Pull key out.
3. Perform these steps within 40 seconds.

  • Close then open the drivers door.
  • Close then open the drivers door.
  • Insert the key into the ignition(Do NOT Turn) Pull key out.
4. Perform these steps within 40 seconds.

  • Close then open the drivers door.
  • Close then open the drivers door.
  • Insert the key into ignition and leave it in ignition.
  • Close the drivers door.
  • Turn the ignition to ON (Do NOT Start) then back to OFF.
  • Remove the key from the ignition.
5. Within 3 seconds, the power door locks should lock then unlock automatically
indicating successful entry into programming mode.
Return to step 1 if the locks do not cycle at this point.
6. Perform these steps within 40 seconds.

  • Press the lock and unlock buttons on the remote simultaneously for 1.5 seconds.
  • Immediately after letting go of the lock and unlock buttons, Press the lock button by itself and hold for 2 seconds. Within 3 seconds, the door locks should lock and then unlock once indicating successful programming. If the door locks cycle twice, repeat steps A and B in step 6 as the remote was not accepted.
  • Repeat steps A and B in step 6 for each new remote.
7. Open drivers door.

This was shamelessly plagiarized from Topoguide's post.
 
dstantdog said:
I have a 2000 LC with weak actuators and I was able to successfully program a new key fob just now by manually locking/unlocking the drivers door only (rather than pressing the master button that controls all the locks per the instructions).

I must have tried 30x using the power door lock/unlock sequence and was about to give up but then found this thread and tried the manual lock/unlock and it worked the first time! Now I've got a spare fully functioning key with the fob buttons. Thanks!!
Click to expand...

Thank you guys, you just saved me ~ $900 (stealership quote for service, power lock assembly and key programming). I was able to program a new master key with fob buttons by manually locking/un-locking the driver's door following r2m's procedure (I have weak actuators, I will be ordering soon and replacing myself) on my new Landcruiser 2000.
 
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