Dealer screwed up alternator replacement, HELP! (1 Viewer)

[e9999]

Not sure I understand that. Did you mean it is $600 for the original alternator job plus now an extra $1300 for the timing belt and related accessories job? Cuz if so, the latter does not seem much cheaper than a normal timing belt job at full cost from what I recall (although what I'm thinking of does not include seal work typically IIRC). If I'm right (not sure), that's great if it makes your life easier but doesn't seem like a great bargain either. And it takes some balls to have the same place do even more work on your truck. At least make sure it's not the same tech cuz he probably isn't happy right now - and we already know how good he is...

On a related note, I just watched a video on timing belt replacement on YT and one of the first things the guy says is to watch out for that alternator bolt as it is prone to snapping off. Must be a common occurrence (and something a good Toyota tech should know).

added: if you would like a feel for the cost of parts on a TB job, here is a list off amazon, mostly OEM or equivalent :

Auto Repair Bealeton VA - Mechanic Near Me - Oil Change

Full Service Auto Repair in Bealeton VA, Specializing in Oil Changes, Brakes, Engines, Transmissions, Tires, Auto Maintenance, & More.

www.otramm.com

That site also has a great vid on timing belt replacement with the engine *out of the truck*, very nice to see. It's the *updated* vid series.

 

[flintknapper]

ya know, there are errors that are understandable. But drilling all the way through at the wrong location is not a 2 seconds slip up. It takes some doing to not see that you're off as you drill and drill, even in a hard to reach location. Hard to understand, even for a DIYer.

Agree that sometimes things just don't go right. Add to that...a tight area to work in and things become all the more difficult. But it is for those very reasons that you want to put your best guy on the job. Also make SURE you use the proper equipment and procedure.

I.E.

When drilling out a bolt IF it is at all possible make sure the remaining shank is flat, even if you have to file or grind it some (assuming you can reach it).

Use a sharp/hard punch to create a divot in the MIDDLE of the bolt.

Use the SMALLEST drill bit you can (for the purpose) to start your pilot hole. Use a 'stub' length bit (not a jobber) or chuck it up as short as possible.

CHECK your drill to see what kind of run-out the chuck has. Some are awful and make it impossible for you to drill a hole where you want to.

Use a bit no shallower than 118° (not a 135), this will help prevent wandering. Make SURE the bit is sharp and the tip is evenly ground.

STOP once you've gotten 1/8"-3/16" down, that is plenty to guide the tip of the next larger bit.

DON'T break the bit off in the bolt, if you thought drilling the bolt out was fun...try removing a small, hard drill bit.

Far too many people just grab a bit and try to start a hole in the end of the bolt shank. Predictably...it wanders to one side and there you are, right up against the threads or too far into the support metal.

 

[Cola]

Not sure I understand that. Did you mean it is $600 for the original alternator job plus now an extra $1300 for the timing belt and related accessories job? Cuz if so, the latter does not seem much cheaper than a normal timing belt job at full cost from what I recall (although what I'm thinking of does not include seal work typically IIRC). If I'm right (not sure), that's great if it makes your life easier but doesn't seem like a great bargain either. And it takes some balls to have the same place do even more work on your truck. At least make sure it's not the same tech cuz he probably isn't happy right now - and we already know how good he is...

On a related note, I just watched a video on timing belt replacement on YT and one of the first things the guy says is to watch out for that alternator bolt as it is prone to snapping off. Must be a common occurrence (and something a good Toyota tech should know).

added: if you would like a feel for the cost of parts on a TB job, here is a list off amazon, mostly OEM or equivalent :

Auto Repair Bealeton VA - Mechanic Near Me - Oil Change

Full Service Auto Repair in Bealeton VA, Specializing in Oil Changes, Brakes, Engines, Transmissions, Tires, Auto Maintenance, & More.

www.otramm.com

That site also has a great vid on timing belt replacement with the engine *out of the truck*, very nice to see. It's the *updated* vid series.

Yes basically, it was 1617 (1000ish for the TB and 625 for the alternator) but had them include fan bracket, and all seals along the way. Im paying MSRP. I just realized that they double counted alternator hours so it should be 350 cheaper. But I shook on it and agreed to it so I'm gonna pay it. Not "getting a steal" on this but I'm content getting a decent price on the TB job and having them entirely cover the entire TB cover replacement.

I know the full price parts will help them offset a little of the hit they're taking on this due to their mistake. I like this dealer and want to continue to do business here so I wasn't trying to gut them. Just wanted it done correctly and it didn't make sense for them to pull everything off including the TB and then put the old parts back on to have them pulled off again next year. They've taken good care of me in the past and want to keep a decent relationship so I wanted to be made whole and that's what I feel I'm getting.

 

[customcruiser]

If you're happy that's all that matters!

 

[Cola]

Here's the break down. 3.2 hours of labor not overlapping. Parts list. I'm paying full MSRP about 175 more than where I normally buy Toyota parts (to the left is Camelback Toyota prices, lowest I've consistently found). Plus 625 for the new alternator and work I had previously agreed on. They're replacing the timing cover and doing it right.

If I didn't do the TB they would have charged me for the 3 hrs of drilling as well. So for 950 more I'm doing all the additional work basically paying for Toyota parts alone

 

[timdgsr]

I got a little lost on all the details, but like mentioned above.

If you're happy with the outcome, that's all that matters.

I'm glad Toyota corporate was supportive and I'm glad that the dealership ended up doing the right thing in the end.

I had an issue with a local dealership that cross threaded one of my spark plugs and claimed it was like that ahead of time, then they screwed up the time-sert install while trying to fix it. Ultimately they had to pay another Toyota dealership to fix their sloppy work.

 

[RET2]

Certainly not defending the dealer but it's hard to find good help and even harder to find good managers that know when they have good help. It's a sad state of affairs when you have to almost do the work yourself to make sure that someone you paid did the job right?

 

[Bigsky80]

Glad everything worked out. I have a little advice on drilling for folks who might run into this issue. See if you can get some expired drill bits from your dentist. When I was in the Navy we used dental drill bits for precision drilling on jet engines. They are very small, unbelievably tough and they fit in a dremel.
Cheers,
Scot

 

[Cola]

I got a little lost on all the details, but like mentioned above.

If you're happy with the outcome, that's all that matters.

I'm glad Toyota corporate was supportive and I'm glad that the dealership ended up doing the right thing in the end.

I had an issue with a local dealership that cross threaded one of my spark plugs and claimed it was like that ahead of time, then they screwed up the time-sert install while trying to fix it. Ultimately they had to pay another Toyota dealership to fix their sloppy work.

Thanks. Came down to 2 basic options. 950 for only alternator job and they cover entire timing belt cover (alternator mount) replacement putting the old parts back on. Or replace everything with new Toyota parts for 1000 more. Timing belt, water pump, crank seals, fan bracket, cam seals, both idlers, and tensioners. Needed to be done within the next year anyways

 

[Cola]

Well, they ended up pulling the engine because they couldn't replace it with it in. Lost more labor involved now. But I'm having them replace the rear main seal and the motor mounts as well now. Parts only. One of the head techs doing the work.

 

[RET2]

This thing went off the rails real quickly, hope it ends up good for you.

 

[Pucker5]

So ive talked to master toyo techs current and now working for themselves and have gained this insight.
- no matter what, dealership hourly rate is dealership hourly rate. For Toyota it’s high as s***
- many of these master techs are used to working on newer cars so when a old (by their standard)Landcruiser comes in they look at it the same way but with a major opportunity to bill extra hours for things like it’s rusty or dirty,etc

In your circumstance you had confirmed exactly how much you were going to pay and they agreed, then they realize the work was going to take more time than what they estimated based on a mistake they made....which means less hours collecting that hourly rate from “fix it all” grandmas. You’re doing yourself a major disservice if you pay a nickel more than what was agreed or for original repairs simply because their going to proactively swap parts that may or may not fail.

 

[Cola]

So ive talked to master toyo techs current and now working for themselves and have gained this insight.
- no matter what, dealership hourly rate is dealership hourly rate. For Toyota it’s high as s***
- many of these master techs are used to working on newer cars so when a old (by their standard)Landcruiser comes in they look at it the same way but with a major opportunity to bill extra hours for things like it’s rusty or dirty,etc

In your circumstance you had confirmed exactly how much you were going to pay and they agreed, then they realize the work was going to take more time than what they estimated based on a mistake they made....which means less hours collecting that hourly rate from “fix it all” grandmas. You’re doing yourself a major disservice if you pay a nickel more than what was agreed or for original repairs simply because their going to proactively swap parts that may or may not fail.

Thanks. The price I agreed on is what I'm paying for the work. They're eating the extra labor involved for anything that pops up. I have an OTD price in writing from the service manager

 

[Pucker5]

Thanks. The price I agreed on is what I'm paying for the work. They're eating the extra labor involved for anything that pops up. I have an OTD price in writing from the service manager

Cool sorry for the lecture I interpreted that they wanted you to eat the labor for lifting the engine...was just trying to talk money back into your pocket

 

[Cola]

Cool sorry for the lecture I interpreted that they wanted you to eat the labor for lifting the engine...was just trying to talk money back into your pocket

I appreciate the help. Def understood what you were saying... Boy this is been a hell of a week. Started with a simple alternator replacement and now my 4.7 is ripped out on an engine jack

 

[RET2]

If it's any solace the dealership and original Tech had a worse week.

 

[Pucker5]

Right! They get to explain to the brass why their bay has had the same vehicle in it for more than a day and is not even billing 6 hours

 

[2001LC]

Those bolts are known too break during disassembly. More so when using and air wrench. If you search mud you'll find it. The two minute attempt to remove it, was a poor one!

Replacing oil pump housing is one solution, as they are suggesting, $3,200. Which if someone else is paying for great go for it!

Another solution, as suggested above, is to find a wielder at a machine shop that specialize in aluminium. <$320. Done with skid plate and hoses pulled out of the way.

Bolts break, don't sweet it!

Thanks. Came down to 2 basic options. 950 for only alternator job and they cover entire timing belt cover (alternator mount) replacement putting the old parts back on. Or replace everything with new Toyota parts for 1000 more. Timing belt, water pump, crank seals, fan bracket, cam seals, both idlers, and tensioners. Needed to be done within the next year anyways

I'm quoting myself and you @Cola because you'll see I said "oil pump housing", and you stated "timing cover".

If this shop said to you: the bolt was broken in "timing cover". Then I'd be very concern about their competency to work on a 2UZ-fe. I'd not have them touch the rear main seal unless leaking!

 

[Cola]

I'm quoting myself and you @Cola because you'll see I said "oil pump housing", and you stated "timing cover".

If this shop said to you: the bolt was broken in "timing cover". Then I'd be very concern about their competency to work on a 2UZ-fe. I'd not have them touch the rear main seal unless leaking!

Very true. The service manager kept calling it a timing cover... :/ But the senior tech they assigned to fix it called it the oil pump housing. And they claimed it was leaking so I said to replace it.

Thanks for the info!

 

[2001LC]

Claimed! I've never sen on leak. Make sure they use OEM FIPG 102 or 103 oil for oil areas and FIPG 1282B for water inlet to water pump.