Dealer Says Load Test On 62 OK? (1 Viewer)

[offroadin4fun]

I asked my local dealer to do a load test on my charging system due to an intermittent dying problem at startup with AC on and watching the factory voltage gauge nosedive when operating my struggling power windows- 13.92 with no load vs 12.70 with load. That seems like a pretty extreme fluctuation to me but they said normal for these older rigs. I couldn't find anything to compare with in the search bar- any comments/ experiences appreciated. Thanks

 

[HemiAlex]

That’s what my truck does with a 55amp alternator.

 

[offroadin4fun]

Thanks, mine is an 80 amp... I'm assuming the 62's use a higher amperage alternator due to more power PIA's. I'm not quite sure what that means for me... electrical systems are definately one of my weaker areas.

 

[Prairie Swamp]

The issue with the windows is likely a combination of mechanical and electrical unrelated to the charging system. After 30 years the mechanical bits get sticky/worn/dirty. And the electrical parts get corroded including grounds - and the wires on an 80s vehicle are undersized by today's standards leading to voltage drop.

I think there's lots of 62 power window threads on here - in particular on by @Spook50 ?

 

[offroadin4fun]

Thanks for the input- Roger that on the windows- I'm striving for the intermittent dying after startup first then plan to tackle the sticky/ slow sometimes non working windows full bore once I conquer my intermittent dying problem- that is my biggest concern for fear that one day it won't stay running at all- which never happenns at a good time or in a good place. After handing over too much $$ at the local Toy Store they've been testing & cleaning out, adjusting & replacing most the fuel/air/throttle components & say that issue almost points to electrical. Krazy thing when it happens it will briefly start then die three times in a row- then the fourth time remain running? WTH??? Sounds like a fuel air problem to me but the local stealer says all that's been thoroughly tested. Worst part is this all came about after the transmission was rebuilt. Before handing it over to them this problem never came about.

 

[doug720]

This is just me, but whenever I stop an engine, I make sure the AC, wipers, headlights, etc, are off. Same for starting.

Any systems like these add extra load to the entire electrical system, right at the time the system is drawing maximum draw.

I have a 60, so no power windows, but after 30 plus years, it's well worth going over the whole electric system, wires, grounds, plugs, switches, etc in close detail. Clean everything up, replace as needed, tighten, check system. I also like to use dielectric grease, Corrosion X spray, and conductive grease on connections. Started doing this on boats, and just carried it over to our land vehicles with great results.

As other have mentioned, many electrical "Gremlins" are bad connections, including grounds. Clean, solid wiring with good battery(s) and alternator, and you will have a good system.

 

[offroadin4fun]

Cool, great stuff for sure.... little by little I've corrected many things over the last 15 yrs anyway but up till now it's been drivetrain and mechanical issues, cooling system & body. This electrical issue started up in the last few years after being stored so everything is gummed up for sure. I have used corrosion ex on many mechanical items over the years but never thought of using it on an electrical system- I will have to look into that for sure. All this headache could easily be a poorly grounded wire or strap sounds right. Thanks for your input & I'll keep on it!

 

[OSS]

13.92V while idling and nothing electrical running is too low. It should be at least 14.1V.
The dash volt gauge is inaccurate. Check voltage at the battery terminals with a hand held volt meter

 

[Spook50]

The issue with the windows is likely a combination of mechanical and electrical unrelated to the charging system. After 30 years the mechanical bits get sticky/worn/dirty. And the electrical parts get corroded including grounds - and the wires on an 80s vehicle are undersized by today's standards leading to voltage drop.

I think there's lots of 62 power window threads on here - in particular on by @Spook50 ?

Yup, window channels (the black rubber) get hard and sticky (giggity) when they get as old as ours are, regulator pivot points and tracks are usually dried up on lubrication, and the electrical system just wasn't designed well enough to effectively power these windows (and to an extent the power licks), especially when things start to show their age. One of my projects will be to wire in relays (four per door; two for the lock solenoid and two for the window motor; one for up and one for down on each). Once I have it working well I'll do a write-up. Won't offer a kit but I'll show how to do it. This will, I think, be a much more effective, though much more labor intensive and expensive to accomplish, than the @slcfj62 method. Plus it will still allow you to lock out the windows front the driver's seat, just like in stock configuration.

 

[offroadin4fun]

13.92V while idling and nothing electrical running is too low. It should be at least 14.1V.
The dash volt gauge is inaccurate. Check voltage at the battery terminals with a hand held volt meter

Actually that was taken with an Interstate load tester at the battery yesterday.

 

[offroadin4fun]

Yup, window channels (the black rubber) get hard and sticky (giggity) when they get as old as ours are, regulator pivot points and tracks are usually dried up on lubrication, and the electrical system just wasn't designed well enough to effectively power these windows (and to an extent the power licks), especially when things start to show their age. One of my projects will be to wire in relays (four per door; two for the lock solenoid and two for the window motor; one for up and one for down on each). Once I have it working well I'll do a write-up. Won't offer a kit but I'll show how to do it. This will, I think, be a much more effective, though much more labor intensive and expensive to accomplish, than the @slcfj62 method. Plus it will still allow you to lock out the windows front the driver's seat, just like in stock configuration.

Yes, the window channels way need addressed- drivers side especially, part of it even goes up and down with the window.... That won't make me freeze to death though as long as my rig runs at least I have a heater and can drive off the mountain but if I flat out stall and die up there with charging problems I'm DONE. It's hunting season here on my side of the border & pretty sure yours coincides. Besides I need the windows down so I can shoot out of them anyway. LOL.... Just Kidding! They both are to be addressed as time and money allows, I just gotta stay running first! Thanks for your input, the channels and contacts I will have a go at myself. If it comes to relays and motors I can do the R&R myself but don't think it would be wise to start replacing things on a whim. The guys at Toby's Auto Electric can help with the diagnostics and hopefully I can take it from there. Thanks

 

[offroadin4fun]

Yup, window channels (the black rubber) get hard and sticky (giggity) when they get as old as ours are, regulator pivot points and tracks are usually dried up on lubrication, and the electrical system just wasn't designed well enough to effectively power these windows (and to an extent the power licks), especially when things start to show their age. One of my projects will be to wire in relays (four per door; two for the lock solenoid and two for the window motor; one for up and one for down on each). Once I have it working well I'll do a write-up. Won't offer a kit but I'll show how to do it. This will, I think, be a much more effective, though much more labor intensive and expensive to accomplish, than the @slcfj62 method. Plus it will still allow you to lock out the windows front the driver's seat, just like in stock configuration.

I was scrolling back through some older threads on the windows.... looks like you replaced your window channels, is that the only part of the rubber that was bad? I think theres more than just the channel but may be wrong.... I did one on my plow truck at one time and it was just a three sided piece that slid right in. These appear to be more than one and where is the best place to purchase would be great if anyone has had some happy results with a vendor that is always good recently. I suck at electrical so will pull my door panels and take it to a shop for a diagnosis. I am gathering either the switches and relays work or they don't.... the motors can go either way. One guy said a cressida motor from Auto Zone bolts in, SWEET. Also before anyone chimes in and says read past threads I am not that smart and probably have A.D.D. or something and at least this redundant question is giving you something to complain about so go kick the dog or something! LOL !!!