Dead - CV Joint or Front Diff ? (1 Viewer)

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I went out offroading yesterday. Things were going great, I was actually following the same trails I had done last time I was out.

I'm driving slow in 4hi with CDL engaged. The trail has some pretty sharp curves, around one of them I hear a large popping metallic noise:confused: . Seems to be coming from the front somewhere. My first idea is its the CDL binding the drivelines. I make it to a straight section turn it off, drive forward then backwards to try to undo the binding. That works temporarily.

Up next is a climb up a hill. As I get to the top of the hill there is a turn. It starts happening again, but this time i hear several noises in quick repetition, seeming to be proportional with acclerator pressure :eek: I thinking I'm not gonna make it out at all now!

Well after a while I get the courage to try again slowly. I eventually get the truck back to park entrance. I notice the problem happens when I turn to either side. In a straight line it clunks but I was able to make it home (150 miles).


I was running a video camara the whole time so i'll post up some video with sound so you can hear , the horrible sounds it was making, almost sounds like a .22 was being fired next to the camara. You can also see how the whole vehicle is jerked by the sudden impact of the problem.

After 1st I thought it was the "Front Diff Breakage" problem but after talking to my neighbor and reading some threads I'm leaning towards a CV issue. Ill be taking it to Toyota on Monday.
 
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Good thing.........TALK to Toyota and get the job done elsewhere, unless it in under an extended warranty!
 
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Stewbo, is your rig lifted & are you using the dif drop?
Usually CV’s make the noise while turning, so not positive on what your situation might be yet. Try grabbing the CV shaft and twisting it to check for play between the two ends. I’m thinking if it’s making noise going straight then it would be evident with excessive play. You may jack up the rig and spin the front wheel while feeling for rough/damaged spots.
DMX
 
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DMX84 said:
Stewbo, is your rig lifted & are you using the dif drop?
Usually CV’s make the noise while turning, so not positive on what your situation might be yet. Try grabbing the CV shaft and twisting it to check for play between the two ends. I’m thinking if it’s making noise going straight then it would be evident with excessive play. You may jack up the rig and spin the front wheel while feeling for rough/damaged spots.
DMX
The rig is stock , only upgrade is tires.
I'll check what you suggested.
 
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wngrog said:
My money is on the diff.

What did it drive like on the HWY coming home?

It would bump every so often , not on a predicatable basis.

A couple times the steering would start to shimmy , then it would go away.

Anytime I made a turn with gas it would make the large metallic noise. But if I turned with no gas all things were quiet.
 
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spressomon said:
What difference did it make without running the CDL? Based upon what you have said here it sounds like a diff issue.

Turning off the CDL had no impact in the reduction of the noise. Turning left or right with gas seems to be the trigger for "it" happening.
 
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Well I put the truck on the ramp. I went underneath and grabbed the CV boot on the PS side. It spins freely! :doh: It looked like there were a couple drops of liquid that leaked while I was rotating it freely. This adds more evidence to a CV problem.
 
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stewbo said:
Well I put the truck on the ramp. I went underneath and grabbed the CV boot on the PS side. It spins freely! :doh: It looked like there were a couple drops of liquid that leaked while I was rotating it freely. This adds more evidence to a CV problem.


The boot may be loose, but you’ll want to check the shaft itself. The boot is no real conclusion here. If you leave the wheels on the ramp grab the shaft and yank hard to see if it has any play. It might a good idea to lift the font end and rotate the front wheels, this might allow you to listen for any abnormalities. I can’t remember if the VC will allow you to turn the front wheels while the rears are on the ground.
DMX
 

spressomon

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DMX84 said:
The boot may be loose, but you’ll want to check the shaft itself. The boot is no real conclusion here. If you leave the wheels on the ramp grab the shaft and yank hard to see if it has any play. It might a good idea to lift the font end and rotate the front wheels, this might allow you to listen for any abnormalities. I can’t remember if the VC will allow you to turn the front wheels while the rears are on the ground.
DMX







T-Case in N?
 
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Speaking from experience, the diff noise makes that .22 sound, but in a straight line IF the pieces have affected the ring & pinion. If the spider gears chipped, you'll get that sound on turns. The CV joints would make the sound on turns most of the time, and if the boot spins and you've lost the grease out of it, that will increase your noise from the joints.
Lift the front end, transfer in N, CDL unlocked, and spin one wheel while straight. If the spider are damaged, you'll hear them popping in the diff. Use a long handle screw driver as a stethascope (handle to your ear, point to the diff housing) and listen. Then turn the wheel fully to one side, and listen to each CV joint. This should give you a better direction to head in. If it's the diff and there's no holes in it, you in a position to rebuild it with a ARB locker. Unlike mine was.
shearedpinlr4hf.jpg

Good luck.
 
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Just got finished at the sevice department.
They concluded that the Front Diff has bit the dust, is kaput, bought the farm, kicked the bucket, etc... Can I change my vote on that poll now?
Gonna cost 1666.86 to fix:censor: :doh: .
My limited powertrain warranty went out in August 2005 :frown: , but I went digging through my purchase papers and lo and behold I found that I had bought the "Mechanical Protection Plan",
84 months or 100K miles, I have 99500 miles.
It covers the repair! :grinpimp:
Hell fawking yeah!
 
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Great luck with the protection plan, make sure they replace it with a 4 pinion centre, I expect they would, but you never know what is sitting on a shelf somewhere in a spare parts dept., a good oportunity to fit and ARB locker, and have the CV's regreased and boots checked while they are out.
 
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Bad luck w/it breaking, but oh the satisfaction of thinking to dig for that warranty paper. I would like to have seen the faces at the dealership when you produced that little gem! Good Luck.
 
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stewbo said:
Just got finished at the sevice department.
They concluded that the Front Diff has bit the dust, is kaput, bought the farm, kicked the bucket, etc... Can I change my vote on that poll now?
Gonna cost 1666.86 to fix:censor: :doh: .
My limited powertrain warranty went out in August 2005 :frown: , but I went digging through my purchase papers and lo and behold I found that I had bought the "Mechanical Protection Plan",
84 months or 100K miles, I have 99500 miles.
It covers the repair! :grinpimp:
Hell fawking yeah!

I'd make them an offer to do the labor if you supply an ARB Air Locker. I've destroyed a 4-pinion myself. If you plan on keeping this rig long-term I'd beg them to deal...can't hurt trying.

My new (1000 mile, 4 pinion) 2nd front diff is in the garage...$100 plus shipping.
 
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I'm not sure I'm following what you are suggesting.
I'm not very mechanically inclinded, are u suggesting I use an ARB differential?
 
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stewbo said:
I'm not sure I'm following what you are suggesting.
I'm not very mechanically inclinded, are u suggesting I use an ARB differential?

Yes....only IF you're really going to wheel it. IF NOT, don't bother. You'll probably get a better 4-pinion Toyota diff which will be better. If you'll wheel the truck though you might as well spend the $800 on the locker and $150 on the compressor if they'll put it in. You get a MUCH stronger diff that won't fail on you. You might have to get one anyhow down the road. :confused:
 
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I wonder if I can get the money from them then I can just take it to 4wheelparts and get them to hookup the ARB setup for the front diff.
 

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