Dead cruiser, fuel system issue? (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jun 23, 2005
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Location
Austin, TX
So for the past few days my cruiser has been idling at very low RPM's and has been stalling on me from time to time. I've also noticed less response from the truck when I step on the skinny pedal. Last night when leaving my friend's apartment I start driving and I have little to NO power at all. I have to floor it to get to 20mph, then when I pull over it stalls, sounded like I was out of gas but I had just put half a tank in the truck the night before. When I try to start her up again it just cranks and cranks sounds like it'll almost turn over but it won't. When I popped the hood the car looked like it was overheating so I leave it and check the fluids and everythign the next day and have the same problem. Could it be the fuel filter? Is there a way to check to see if the fuel pump is gone?

thanks for the help.

EDIT: My main o2 sensor has been out for a few months as well.
 
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Checked it didn't look like it was. Had that replaced about 2 years ago when it did crack.
 
Could this be the "undersized wiring harness" problem?
 
alaskacruiser said:
Could this be the "undersized wiring harness" problem?


What problem would that be? I had the wireing harness replaced a few years back. Could it be the regulator, whatever that is..
 
nyk438 said:
So for the past few days my cruiser has been idling at very low RPM's and has been stalling on me from time to time. I've also noticed less response from the truck when I step on the skinny pedal. Last night when leaving my friend's apartment I start driving and I have little to NO power at all. I have to floor it to get to 20mph, then when I pull over it stalls, sounded like I was out of gas but I had just put half a tank in the truck the night before. When I try to start her up again it just cranks and cranks sounds like it'll almost turn over but it won't. When I popped the hood the car looked like it was overheating so I leave it and check the fluids and everythign the next day and have the same problem. Could it be the fuel filter? Is there a way to check to see if the fuel pump is gone?

thanks for the help.

EDIT: My main o2 sensor has been out for a few months as well.

#1 I'd first replace what is wrong-O2 sensor. Your check engine light on? IF it is-get the signals number(s) before changing the O2 sensors (I'd do both at the same time). I would tell you the terminal #s from memory in the diagnostics plug in-but its only from memory and I woudn't want to cause more trouble than I already do!

#2 Check the distributor. Sometimes a small wire inside can break. IT is close enough to "arch" when cold and then expansion increases the gap and sputtering/starting issues begin when hot. - It won't be visible to inspection but the code indicator I believe is "EFI circuit/Distributor"

#3 increase the size of the wire from the EFI relay to the EFI fuse in the "little black box" to 10ga (I think) and replace EFI relay with GP Sorenson part (Anyone have the #?-maybe john-H. The GP Sorenson part handles the heat a little better.

#4 Dunno.

This again is all from memory so consult the archives on the 3fe list on Yahoo groups.
 
1st I would check the distributor, wires and the plugs. Then I would look at connectors to the AFM, TPS and the other sensors, fuel injecters too, plus a quick visual check on the harness going to before I would look into fuel issues and bad EFI relays.

my 2cents
 
Thanks for all the help, I'm going to check all these before I start replacing parts.
 
Replace the O2 sensor. The computer ignores the O2 sensor initially and uses a default setting until the sensor heats up, then starts taking readings from the O2 sensor. If you can crawl for a while and then die, this is a major suspect.

The EFI relay wire becomes an issue because it overheats and eventually cooks the EFI relay, cheap fix, do a search.
 
Everything has checked out, still need to order an o2 sensor, too bad bills are getting in my way :crybaby:. I pulled the fuel filter last night and the gas was reddish brown color when some of it dripped out of the filter, I'm assuming this isn't normal? I tried cleaning it by blowing compressed air into it and get a lot a of gunk and brown gas out of it. Put it back up and my battery didn't have enough charge to crank the truck :doh:. Battery is as Autozone right now and hopefully my truck will start.
 
santiagol said:
Replace the O2 sensor. The computer ignores the O2 sensor initially and uses a default setting until the sensor heats up, then starts taking readings from the O2 sensor. If you can crawl for a while and then die, this is a major suspect.

The EFI relay wire becomes an issue because it overheats and eventually cooks the EFI relay, cheap fix, do a search.


Relay? just making sure, is the thing in the fusebox under the hood. Just doublechecking I'm figuring it is :D. Just called a local dealership in San Antonio and they said the relay is 90.00???
 
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Auto Zone has the relay for 'bout $15 IIRC, but if you are cranking the mighty 3fe and you see a CEL it is not the relay.
No start + no check engine light = Bad EFI relay (this usually happens on a hot motor)
 
FrankTorres said:
Auto Zone has the relay for 'bout $15 IIRC, but if you are cranking the mighty 3fe and you see a CEL it is not the relay.
No start + no check engine light = Bad EFI relay (this usually happens on a hot motor)


My CE is on due to an O2 sensor, the motor was very very hot when I turned it off and it didn't start again. the relay is $15 from autozone, just ask for an EFI relay?
 
a redish substance in the fuel system and gunk is no good sign. I would check what the fuel pressure is after and before the fuel filter and if you don't have fuel pressure gage then disconnect the fuel hose from the pump or the filter, you need to see a nice amount of fuel coming out/shooting out. if it just squarting little by little then you have a bad fuel pump. if you feel that the engine is hot or the catalytic is red or overheated then you are running lean wich means no fuel.

my 2 cents as well.
 
Checked teh relay it was rewired, and the relay was working fine. I installed a new fuel filter today and plenty of gas came out, I turned on the fuel pump earlier to check to see that it was working and i heard the humming or clicking noise to show that it was working. After installing the fuel filter same problem, all crank no turn over. Pulled the spark plug wire and grounded it and tried to start it and there was zero spark, checked the ignition coil and there wasn't a spark at all from that either when i pulled the plug off that. Gonna order the ignition coil and run it out of the truck to see if I can get a spark.
 
nyk438 said:
My CE is on due to an O2 sensor, the motor was very very hot when I turned it off and it didn't start again. the relay is $15 from autozone, just ask for an EFI relay?

You could have blown a efi fuse...you must have a CEL for the motor to start, if you do not, that is an indication that something is wrong.

The relay is by GP Sorensen, part # 41-5002.

I hope for your $ake its not the igniter/coil.

Good luck.
 
FrankTorres said:
You could have blown a efi fuse...you must have a CEL for the motor to start, if you do not, that is an indication that something is wrong.

The relay is by GP Sorensen, part # 41-5002.

I hope for your $ake its not the igniter/coil.

Good luck.
EFI fuse is fine checked em. The coil runs me 60 bucks and I can run it out of the truck to see if it starts. I must ahve a CEL (check engine light?) for the motor to start? I have a CEL but it's for a blown o2. I'm not getting any spark from the distributor so I checked the igniter and ther was no spark from that either so I called up local parts store and they stock it, gonna pick it up tomorrow.
 
nyk438 said:
I must ahve a CEL (check engine light?) for the motor to start?

Just for about 2 seconds while starting, that indicates ther is power to the whole EFI system.

Thats cool, that your parts guy will let you try out the parts.

keep us posted
 
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