Dead amp/fuel/oil pressure gauges, and front heater blower motor as well.

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Oct 10, 2020
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Near Omaha Ne
This has been a cascading situation. I was going to remove my heater because I don't get air out of the defrost ducts even with the fan obviously working, no matter where I set the heat lever to on the heater. Getting ready to pull out the heater and I noticed that I had fluid leaking out of my clutch master cylinder inside inside the cab, and eating the paint. The previous owner had done a complete body repair and repaint and he did a good job.I also had recently started having problems shifting into reverse. So I ordered a replacement clutch master cylinder, replaced it, and bled the system. In the process of changing the master cylinder I had a lot of problems getting the clevis pin out of the clutch pedal, and had moved wire bundles around. After the system was bled I had no problems shifting. But none of my instruments except the amp meter were working. Looking at the schematics I checked the fuse, which was ok. I got a voltmeter and checked it at the fuse and it read 11.7 volts. The schematic said that the power wire for all of the non functional gauges was a blue/red wire. I don't see any broken wires but I can't really see everything up there clearly. Anything else I should check, and if I have to pull the instrument cluster do I need to disconnect the speedometer cable and if so do I do it at the transmission or at the gauge or both?
 
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Dec 13, 2012
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KY
If you have to remove the cluster you disconnect the speedo cable at the back of the cluster.
 
Joined
Oct 10, 2020
Messages
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Location
Near Omaha Ne
I tried to reach up from below to remove the speedo cable but I wasn't sure exactly where it should be. I tried taking the 2 screws off and tilted the instrument cluster so I could see the cable, but couldn't tilt enough to get my hand in there. But I did something. The gauges worked when I started the Cruiser to move it a little ways, and I drove it around the block and over some rough roads to see if it would quit working. It didn't. I don't trust it but I think I'm going to get the heater first before taking the instrument cluster out, as I need to fix the odometer which doesn't work anyway but if I need to drive it this winter I'd like the defroster to be working. Doing some searching I did see there's a video about fixing the odometer, which basically involves taking the odometer numbered wheels apart and cleaning them. I'd like to keep the instrument cluster original if possible.
 
Joined
Oct 10, 2020
Messages
90
Location
Near Omaha Ne

Got a "Oops! We ran into some problems.​


The requested thread could not be found"

message. Since I still plan on trying to fix the gauges and odometer I would like to see the thread if it still is accessible.

Thanks
 

John McVicker

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Jul 11, 2005
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Big Pine, CA
You may already be aware of this, but just in case:

DO NOT attempt to tilt the speedo cluster backwards until you disconnect the battery. This is a significant safety issue…if you do not do this you have a high likelihood of frying your amp meter on your ‘76.
 
Joined
Oct 10, 2020
Messages
90
Location
Near Omaha Ne
You may already be aware of this, but just in case:

DO NOT attempt to tilt the speedo cluster backwards until you disconnect the battery. This is a significant safety issue…if you do not do this you have a high likelihood of frying your amp meter on your ‘76.
I had read that either somewhere on here or on another FJ40 site. Since me sticking my hand up from the brake/clutch pedals trying to use my phone's camera to see what was back there actually seemed to jostle whatever wasn't connected so that it worked again I've left it alone. I will remember when I do take the gage cluster off to see if I can fix the odometer. Thanks.
 

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