Dead 4.5L (1 Viewer)

[1995cruiser]

This will be a 1995 Landcruiser 4.5L The motor in it came from a 96. I was on my way up to the trail. Right before I left I had cleaned my MAF sensor with CRC brand MAF sensor safe cleaner. At the gate I was goofing around with my scan gauge ii I was looking forward and hitting the buttons trying to clear an PO135 code for my upstream O2 sensor I had replaced that same day. I was not paying attention and accidently hit the mode button and thought I was clearing the code but to find out I forced it out of VPS mode a setting in the scan gauge. I don't know what this is. It got stuck and said connecting. I backed out and went to the clear code this time and cleared the P0135 successfully. This vehicle is highly modified. when I was a couple of blocks away it started falling on its face to the point I had to pull over and turn around to head back to the shop. Just barely getting back I noticed it had no back pressure it coasted just like I had no torque converter had to keep playing with the gas pedal to get back. I made it within 150' from my shop. It turns over but no start. I have been working on it for over 24 hrs now. I smell lots of gas. I removed the spark plugs and they were very wet with gas. I changed the spark plugs they were only 4 months old and looked pretty good. Checked cap rotor and wires. When I crank the motor the engine light is on and when it attempts to sputter the engine light blinks at the rate of it trying to start. I checked all fuses inside and engine compartment also the fusible links. I have all spare fuel relays and swapped them all out along with the igniter and the EFI relay. I tested and changed all the fuses in desperation. I know it didn't make sense to change the fuel pump relays and so on because I smell gas. I have some pretty good automotive skills In my time with this vehicle I have removed the head re-sealed the upper and lower pan gasket changed the timing set and much more. But I now realize this thing has me wondering if I know anything anymore. This thing used to have lots of problems and I have addressed them 1 at a time with good success. I'm stuck on this one. Oh and if I remember correctly one time a couple months ago I had the MAF sensor unplugged because I was changing some stuff on the intake and at startup it wouldn't start. I went back and looked and seen I forgot to plug the MAF sensor in. I plugged it in and it started right up.

 

[Irish Reiver]

Have you actually checked for and confirmed good spark at each plug? I know you mentioned the plugs are fairly new but air, gas and spark are what the recipe calls for. Sounds like you have 2 of the 3.

 

[1995cruiser]

Ok so I only checked for spark on 2 plugs. I installed new plugs and kept the 4 month old ones because there still good. So the other 4 cylinders I did not check for spark.

 

[LandLocked93]

No idea, but have you tried clearing the ECU by removing its power for 15+ mins? Just assuming the code clearing caused the issue. Could very well be coincidental failure of something else tho.

 

[1995cruiser]

I removed the ECU and disconnected the battery's. I unplugged the ECU completely because I was working last month chasing down a engine cutout during lots of body roll left to right. They had me go over some stuff over by B pillar an fuel pump connector and a few other things. Some techs from the forum gave me some helpful advise to inspect the wire harness area by the EGR tube. The bummer is whatever I did hunting for that engine cutout fixed itself after I was done doing everything they suggested. Change the motor mounts and so on. Someone before me deleted the EGR so I removed that dreadful EGR tube that bakes the wiring harness up top back of the engine. The guys said that at the ECU in the glovebox there are some connections that has caused others some issues as well. I plugged the ECU back in and had my wife turn the key over while I moved the wiring harnesses that go into the ECU to see if would maybe try to fire. Its just like something took the life out of her completely. It seams that if I unplug the ECU and plug it back in and try to start it attempts a brief sputter trying to fire then nothing but fuel smell if I continue to turn over.

 

[1995cruiser]

No idea, but have you tried clearing the ECU by removing its power for 15+ mins? Just assuming the code clearing caused the issue. Could very well be coincidental failure of something else tho.

I was thinking the same thing.

 

[1995cruiser]

Ok still stuck but I have some other info. I checked the spark on all 6 plugs and I thought that the spark would be a little brighter then what I was seeing, but I was wrong.
Now that I verified spark to all 6 plugs and I know I'm getting air, I shot some starting fluid into the intake and it fired up. So my question is if I bypass and hot wire the pigtail going into the tank GR and WB wires with correct polarity shouldn't the pump turn on for a test only. I do see the crank sensor and safety neutral SW is in series with the fuel circuit also a 1ohm fuel pump resister I believe that supply's ground to one of the relays for either low or high pressure. I tested the fuel pump Molex plug truck side and never got 12V on the GR and WB wires while turning it over.

 

[jonheld]

Ok still stuck but I have some other info. I checked the spark on all 6 plugs and I thought that the spark would be a little brighter then what I was seeing, but I was wrong.
Now that I verified spark to all 6 plugs and I know I'm getting air, I shot some starting fluid into the intake and it fired up. So my question is if I bypass and hot wire the pigtail going into the tank GR and WB wires with correct polarity shouldn't the pump turn on for a test only. I do see the crank sensor and safety neutral SW is in series with the fuel circuit also a 1ohm fuel pump resister I believe that supply's ground to one of the relays for either low or high pressure. I tested the fuel pump Molex plug truck side and never got 12V on the GR and WB wires while turning it over.

If you're not getting any voltage on the red/green, then you need to work backwards towards the relays, assuming you are getting proper voltage and logic to the relays.
A common failure point is connector BO1 which lives under the "C" pillar on the left side. It is under the body and can corrode over time. All fuel pump wiring runs through this connector. The EWD is your friend.

 

[1995cruiser]

Hello Jon thanks for the reply always appreciated. The location you speak of that is where I found no voltage on the red/green and white/black while turning over. I still dont know if my fuel pump is good. Could this be externally powered at this location from just the tank side connector for testing the fuel pump or is there other wires that would come into play to test the pump briefly. Oh Jon also my truck doesn't have the circuit opening relay where is says it is. I cant find it. I pulled one out of my 94 and It has one. Either that or the relay is one of those 90987-02004.

 

[jonheld]

The COR is located in the same place on all US spec 80s. Bottom center relay hanging off the relay block in the left kick panel.
OBD1 FJ80/FZJ80 was part# 85910-30050 (dual logic coils/square shape)
OBD2 FZJ80 was part# 90987-02004 (same part number as the EFI main relay)

 

[1995cruiser]

Ok here is mine.So you are telling me the 90987-02004 that is the same relay as EFI in the upper box so the bottom relay on the right.

 

[jonheld]

Please look at the diagram I posted from the EWD. It is the relay that has the "CIRCUIT OPENING RELAY" text pointing to it. This relay is in the EXACT SAME LOCATION on every 80. OBD1 is a square relay, OBD2 is a round relay, but they all live in the same place.

 

[1995cruiser]

Got it. The 94s opining relay confused me it wan an cube relay. This is nice because this same relay is used for other things on this truckI figured it out when I seen the wire size and colors where the same as the wires back at the C pillar.

 

[1995cruiser]

I disassembled the truck electrical all the way from ECU to engine compartment inspected all harnessing and used electro duct to make new harnesses. The vehicle has lots of sharp Sheetmetal all the way along the harnessing. Added 6 grounds from block to frame and body. eliminated all of the rear extra unused harnessing for the rear gate, wipers rear heated window electric gate lock etc.. When I got the truck the back was dead ended chopped for exocage. I never seen electrical practices so poor. I have been removing it as needed. The truck is running had some fiddling around with the tank sending unit installing the new fuel pump the complete assembly must of been out of another truck because it was 1" to long to fit in the tank so they bent the sending unit frame so the screen was pointed at 45 deg angle not sitting on the bottom. I removed the skid pan and the tank is not crushed in so I shortened the assembly and refit a new pump to it. So from living in the book for the last 4 days I think this thing is supposed to have a charcoal canister. If so its gone. The truck runs as it should except that cutting out in really hard corners When I say really hard I mean it. I have spent a lot of time correctly setting up the suspension as far as brake lines vents for the long travel I promise while in turns we are not pulling on anything causing this cutout. I noticed when I take the gas cap off there is a fair amount of suction or air leaking out. I haven't put a vacuum gauge on it yet to see if its pressure or vacuum. I would guess it was vacuum. Could this be a problem? Im getting desperate just throwing it out there.

 

[LandLocked93]

Need pics. You have a 'custom' rig.

 

[1995cruiser]

I can dig some up.
Do you know if this 95 specific year has a fuel cut off safety tip over switch or anything related to fuel.

 

[LandLocked93]

Well given that your pump wasn't a Toyota pump...Toyota tanks have a check ball valve on the tank.
But otherwise, nothing electrical in that vein as far as I know, if that's what you're getting at.

 

[1995cruiser]

Yea that's what I'm getting at. I have covered a lot of stuff trying to hunt this down. When I purchased this thing I new it had some issues that he owner wasn't telling me about. The day they brought it to me on a trailer they all looked at each other like here it goes and when it started they were looked at each other like holly crap it started. I new then that there was more to the story then what he told me. After working on it for a year straight I dont know how this thing went anywhere. I do remember the first time I took it out and got it on some really uneven rough up in a clear-cut just to see what it could do it cutout on me a few times it pulled a brake line from the caliper. Im amazed it didn't tear the rear driveline off. It was making contact binding up really bad when articulated. So I have addressed everything with a lot of patience and time.
All I have left is this cutout and non working door locks.

 

[1995cruiser]

Landlocked93 and Jonheld thanks for the feedback regarding. I definitely know a little more about this truck from this session. I would love to have full vol 1-2 in an electronic copy.
So its to late to say but my truck is running really good. I found the crank sensor plug was shotty on the truck side. I was inspecting the run and found someone has been in there and used some non automotive wire loom on it. Before I could pin it out 2 of the 3 wires fell off of the plug. So the only good connection was the ground.
my parts 94 does not have a crank sensor but I found a exact plug up on the front passenger side of the radiator support. I installed the plug. Next I started up by the EGR the main wire harness that you spoke of in another post that gets melted. I removed the plastic guard that covers the main harness along with the heat tape where it goes down and runs by the fuel rail. I separated all of the pairs and amazingly found no melted wires. I installed new heat wrap on the complete run and reassembled. Changed the broken distributer plug. Reinstalled the MAF wiring. I drove the truck approximately 75 miles and drove it really hard around 10 or so roundabouts where it usually cutts out when leaning. Thanks again.

 

[LandLocked93]

Landlocked93 and Jonheld thanks for the feedback regarding. I definitely know a little more about this truck from this session. I would love to have full vol 1-2 in an electronic copy.
So its to late to say but my truck is running really good. I found the crank sensor plug was shotty on the truck side. I was inspecting the run and found someone has been in there and used some non automotive wire loom on it. Before I could pin it out 2 of the 3 wires fell off of the plug. So the only good connection was the ground.
my parts 94 does not have a crank sensor but I found a exact plug up on the front passenger side of the radiator support. I installed the plug. Next I started up by the EGR the main wire harness that you spoke of in another post that gets melted. I removed the plastic guard that covers the main harness along with the heat tape where it goes down and runs by the fuel rail. I separated all of the pairs and amazingly found no melted wires. I installed new heat wrap on the complete run and reassembled. Changed the broken distributer plug. Reinstalled the MAF wiring. I drove the truck approximately 75 miles and drove it really hard around 10 or so roundabouts where it usually cutts out when leaning. Thanks again.

I typed a reply to your post-before-last yesterday. Guess it didn't make it.
At any rate, saw the pics. What a piece you have there.
The kinds of things (and the t-shooting thereof and thereafter) that had to be done to the aux/secondary factory systems for your truck to function (mechanically as intended presumably) are in my mind known only by those who have done it themselves. 'crawlers' I think they're called.
Looks great to me but that's worth nuthin'. Impressive bit of kit.
Awesome you found the problem! How did the PO(s) not find that? Oh wait...