De-smog and electric fuel pump for a 60 series (1 Viewer)

TOY350

#1 Super Guy
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Do not de-smog unless you plan on purchasing out of country parts to convert your engine to a no smog one. Just pulling parts and bypassing smog devices will cause many headaches unless there is someone who knows exactly how to do it, but I don't know if there is or isn't. We tried to desmog mine before I put in the 350 and it ran horrible.

No comment on the electric fuel pump, I just don't know.
 
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Nothing wrong with the OEM fuel pump. They wear out sometimes. Don't recommend a desmog unless you have someone like Jim C. do the carb. A carb is designed to work a certain way and if you don't know the right short cuts it won't work right.
 
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I know for FI rigs that a lot of people upgrade to the supra twin turbo fuel pump, as (IIRC) it has two pumps in it so if one fails you won't blow up your engine. Or maybe I'm just making that up and they upgrade to it because it's oversized and extremely reliable.

Not really an issue for a Cruiser though, and I can't remember if I've read of anyone using one.

The Porsche 911 Twin Turbo and Toyota Supra Twin Turbo both have 'em. Yes, they both have turbos. They also have bulletproof fuel pumps. Obviously, each of these cars make 2-3 times more power than your Honda. Now, both the 911 and Supra can belt out 400 hp without any type of fuel system modification. The in-tank pumps that come from the factory on most Hondas are designed for all-motor use, whereas the pumps on the 911 and Supra are obviously built and sized for their turbocharged state. The armatures and commutators inside the pump are larger, lending to this improved reliability. Think of a Honda fuel pump as a one of those tiny motors inside your Oral-B electric toothbrush. Well, a Supra or 911 fuel pump would be comparable to the winch on your pop's Jeep. Fuel pumps hibernating in the tanks of many 911s are made by Bosch, while the Supra's pump is made by Denso (formerly known as Nippon Denso). These OEM pumps are very reliable. More importantly, they sustain fuel pressure reliably when the boost is turned up.
Kinsler Fuel Injection Fuel Pump Upgrade - Plugged Parts - SuperStreet Magazine


HTH
 

2ndGenToyotaFan

Just spend all the money.....
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FI needs 40+ psi I think, a carb only needs like 3.... Are you trying to tweak it to get more power?
 
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If it isn't broken why are you trying to change it? Is it a flow issue, or are you thinking it may break some day and leave yous tranded...?
 
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Ah, I see. Pretty unlikely that it is a fuel problem, at least a problem with fuel making it to the float bowl. Since it is happening in a very specific range and not under different throutle possitions...
 
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My plan is to get the most use out of the current setup as possible without mods. From my MUD addiction readings these two topics seem to come up frequently. My hesitation issue seems to be a non issue at the moment in town until I tow the raft this weekend again.
 
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to play devils advocate;


junk that s***.:flipoff2::hillbilly::flipoff2:


you are trying to make the stock spaghetti monster of a carb run well after 20 + years and who knows how many vacuum leaks and gummed up, plugged circuits, and hoping the carbon vanes in the smog pump are doing their thing, if they are intact, and worrying about that smog pump being the tensioner for the only water pump belt and if it explodes it takes out your cooling and if your temp and fuel gauges are doing that spike thing so you don't notice because you're used to it and don't look that way anymore and then you overheat in BFE,...... :doh::censor: :censor:

:censor: ask how I know, see RIP section below:bang:

you may walk home thinking about how a 2bbl webber and a 6-1 header and some creative blocking/plugging plus a couple fixes in the dash for the temp/fuel indicator ground may have given you another couple hundred thousand miles, and given you a bit more mpg, a bit more ft/lbs and might have fixed that 2-3 stumble. not to mention junking that stupid fan that drains your battery trying to stop vapor lock while you're getting groceries in July in the desert; you can use that space for something right?



IMHO, YRRMV, etc..

really though, a simple progressive webber with an electric choke is your friend, a header is cool, what other reason do you "need"

I wish MUD had saved me in my '60 days, hell, if it were around it may have saved the '55 (F motor oil starvation) and '40 (wore out oil pump, grenaded dizzy x3, snapped cam)

electric fuel pump at the tank if you're going that way, or a rebuilt pump this weekend, non issue.
 
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I melted the spark plug wires on an old Ford 390 engine years ago for the same reasons - not a big deal because it was only a Ford but that would really suck with the LC. I don't want to mod the heck out of this rig but I do want to be able to drive it out to the middle of woods to a trail head and know when I get back I'm driving home not walking.
 
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Mine drives just dandy desmogged. 3-2-1 header, rebuilt carb (by me), non-recurved dizzy. Way nicer engine compartment. Would probably run even better if I had JimC rebuild my carb and recurve the distributor. As is, it runs fine enough for me following JimC's desmog schematics.
 
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Mine drives just dandy desmogged. 3-2-1 header, rebuilt carb (by me), non-recurved dizzy. Way nicer engine compartment. Would probably run even better if I had JimC rebuild my carb and recurve the distributor. As is, it runs fine enough for me following JimC's desmog schematics.
again, spoken by someone that obviously knows what is up. :grinpimp:
 
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FJ40jim on Mud. email is fj40jim@aol.com I couldn't find a phone number with a quick search, but that is supposed to be the best way to get a hold of him. TLC performance is his shop's name.
 

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