De-flared poll: weld them shut or just paint over the plugs? (1 Viewer)

Weld the holes first, or just paint over the plugs?


  • Total voters
    19
  • Poll closed .

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I've thought about the Muggy Weld solution. I may end up going that route. Thanks for the great replies.
 
I lined over nylon plugs after WAY too much deliberation. If I did it again, I would use the foil tape - I used some on the square holes in the rear and it is hardly noticeable.
 
Anyone have a Slee ShortBus and rear bumper without flares?

Short bus fits great w/o flares.
ImageUploadedByIH8MUD Forum1408126399.010355.jpg
ImageUploadedByIH8MUD Forum1408126414.644486.jpg
ImageUploadedByIH8MUD Forum1408126430.145594.jpg

Actually sticks out maybe an inch. Much better than an ARB


...via IH8MUD app
 
I tore my flares off and just left it

Same boat....been on my "to do" list since I tore mine off in 2011. I refer to them now as lightening holes, to offset the hundred's of pounds of extra steel that has been added......
 
I would vote for option #3 - Foil tape. Mine are welded and smoothed because I was doing a full paint job, and I didn't bed-line as high as the flares were, so the holes wouldn't have been covered with the liner.
 
I have no intention of ever selling my cruiser, plus I already had a welder and the skills to use it, which made my decision to weld pretty easy. I did get a quote from a local shop, mostly so I knew what I was saving by doing it myself. They wanted $2k to weld up the 50 flare/trim holes plus the 16 roof rack holes...and that was assuming I dropped and reinstalled the headliner and sunroof for them.

Jose - For $100 you were paying that guy below minimum wage...you lucked out there my friend.
 
I started welding up the holes a few days ago. It didn't take more than just a few hours to get all the holes done but the ones on the rear doors. If you decide to weld up the holes I would suggest getting a copper welding spoon to create a barrier to stop blow through, and also take out the heat which will cause thin gauge metal to warp. I used a 1/8" piece of copper plate and a magnet to hold it on the panel behind the holes, which worked perfectly.
 
After researching and talking with multiple body shops in Kansas City, it's $300/panel for a total of $1,800. That includes welding the twenty holes shut, sanding the panels down, matching the paint.

Needless to say the flare gaskets have been replaced and the they are all back on. I'll save this project for another day.
 
Not sure about the LC's exactly but on the LX's you wont have access to the back-side of all the holes. This means you cant cover those welds up and they could start to rust. I had all of the rear-accessible holes welded and used a "Muggy Weld" type product for the other holes.

After the holes were filled:

IMG_1753.jpg
by RickaShay24, on Flickr

Now (also note the width of the Slee front):

20130607-IMG_2798.jpg
by RickaShay24, on Flickr
 
@nukegoat @Enigma
I don't suppose you guys have a closeup shot of these holes without closing them up? I was thinking about taking flares off and leaving them until years down the road right before I repaint.

Same boat....been on my "to do" list since I tore mine off in 2011. I refer to them now as lightening holes, to offset the hundred's of pounds of extra steel that has been added......
 
Not sure about the LC's exactly but on the LX's you wont have access to the back-side of all the holes. This means you cant cover those welds up and they could start to rust. I had all of the rear-accessible holes welded and used a "Muggy Weld" type product for the other holes.

After the holes were filled:

IMG_1753.jpg
by RickaShay24, on Flickr

Now (also note the width of the Slee front):

20130607-IMG_2798.jpg
by RickaShay24, on Flickr
Is your original paint black or dark green? What color did you use for the, I'm assuming, Monstaliner? Any better pics of the width of the Slee deflared? Thanks.
 

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