DDoD - My High Mileage 99 (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Aug 5, 2019
Threads
23
Messages
186
Location
Colorado
DDoD == Daily Driver of Doom, seems about right. :)

So I pulled the trigger on the high mileage cruiser, picked it up last night.
280k on the clock, to be fair, there are alot of 200k cruisers out there.
Why would I do this? It's triple locked and has an ARB bumper up front.
Rear toyota locker, usual center diff/transfer case lock and front ARB air locker and air pump.
No rust other than the paint chips. someone... replaced front fender with slightly mismatched paint and bolted the fender of the headlight tab. :/
Some peeling clear coat and oh god why is there fake wood glued to everything?
Stock height suspension with OME Nitro's up front

Maintenance in the last year or two:
Moog CAs, Moog lower BJs, CVJ rebuilt steering rack, new PS pump, TYC radiator, it's had multiple transmission service jobs done (fluid/filter)

To kick off the mods, I've got a Tigershark 11500SR winch on the way. Open box from amazon (hopefully it has the acutal winch in it, some of those returns are just random old crap in a box.)

Today I drove it down the mountain and got a feel for it. Picked up a couple of bulbs, still need to hunt down one to replace one of the bulbs in the AC controls. Power antenna is gone, just makes a sad grinding sound. Power windows have that slooooooow speed.
Handling is pretty good, half worn BFG all terrains definitely suck in the snow.

Most annoying thing: The horrible stick on aftermarket fake wood trim. There's a little rectangle of it stuck to the glove compartment handle. It was even on the steering wheel. I may hunt down a donor dash to get rid of it. blech.
 
With a little heat and a little patience, the fake wood will all come off without ruining the parts underneath. I have to say I've not heard of stick-on wood on the steering wheel.

Unless you're you're saying you've got serious wood.
1930ChrisCraft3_0001-800x536.jpg


Post pics of that so at least the rest of us can lol see what you're up against.
 
I was able to pull the wierdo steering wheel cover bits off earlier. The ratted out leather is still preferable to that junk. Most of the interior work will proably wait for better weather but you never know when I'll need to hide from the wife and break out the heat gun.

I have to admit I shopped for a radio today, I just need bluetooth but I'd like some android auto there. Black friday deals abound after all.
 
Yesterday I picked up some headlight bulbs, today I sorted the title and ordered some new keys.
 
Great deal, I paid about the same for my 280K LC.

With those Moog LCAs I'd suggest installing Torsion Bar Reinforcing Brackets:
or:
Read more about them here:
 
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Great deal I paid about the same for my 280K LC.

With those Moog LCAs I'd suggest installing Torsion Bar Reinforcing Brackets:
or:
Read more about them here:

Second this. As far as LC parts go, these are dead cheap.
 
Sigh, amazon sent me a busted Tigershark 9500 inside a 11500 box. They offered me a whole $5 for my trouble. Lame.
 
Starting to work on tires and wheels.
Lessons learned: The wheel selection for the LC... SUCKS. I found a procomp wheel that would work, but it's special order and I suspect they'll stop making it at some point. The issue being that our dear friend the Tundra gets all the wheels and they all want 18s.

I'm a fan of 17s - I run them on almost everything. That said, I think I'll stick with the 16s for now.

Picking tire size, I pull up a few resources.
1) amazon, search for wildpeak at2w and r16.
2) Falken website and pull up the tire size choices for the at3ws.
3) tire size calculator Tire Size Calculator

To be fair, each tire is a bit different, but in general they are *close* to standard sizes.
Stock tires:
270/65R16: 29.8 tall, 10.6 wide, 6.9" from rim to ground.
305/70r16: 32.8 tall, 12 wide, 8.4" from rim to ground - so net increase of 1.5 inches of clearance.
315/75r16: 34.6 tall, 12.4 wide, 9.3" from the ground - net increase of 2.4 inches.

Note: none of that includes rim width as part of the calculation.

Now, I'm a bit leary of running what amounts to 35s - I'll need to regear and soooooon. Especially with the 9k of altitude I deal with.
Cost wise, I can get a set of 305s for $600 or the 315s for $720.

Now for some gear calcs: Gear Ratio Calculator
I've been using this calc since 1999 so, glad it still works.
Facts for my ride:
1999 LC has 4.3:1 axle gears (not bad acually)
Trans is the A343F - 4 speed
TCase is the HF2A - 2.28:1 in low range.

By dumping that info into the calc and adjusting tire size for the stock and the 305s, numbers are pretty good.
Stock:
Gear10mph35mph70mph
1135847519503
274225965193
348516973394
436412732545
305/70:
Gear10mph35mph70mph
1123343178634
267423594718
344015423083
433011562313
315/75:
Gear10mph35mph70mph
1116940928184
263922364472
341814622923
431310962192


Hmm, I'm really tempted to pull the trigger on the 315s after running the numbers. They really aren't too bad.
Now back to the falken site, I'm looking at tire numbers. Sorry about the readability on this:
Item NumberTire SizeLoad IDPly RatingService Desc.Approved Rim Width (in)Measuring Rim (in)Overall Diameter (in)Overall Width (in)Revs Per MileTread Depth (/32in)Tire Weight (lbs)Max Load Single / Dual (lbs)Max Pressure (psi cold)U.T.Q.G
28037641LT305/70R16E10124/121R8.0 - 9.59.032.812.16371963.33525 / 319565-
28037124LT315/75R16E10127/124R8.0 - 11.08.534.612.36062072.13860 / 352565-

Interesting items for me:
Tire weight - dang that's an extra 9lbs for the 315!, The Approved rim is good at 8" for both, and finally they have better tread depth than the P rates which only run around 13-14/32. All are snow rated which matters for me- we've had snowpack on our road for the last two weeks.

Sooo, I do believe that my choice is made:
1) Stick with the 16s, maybe get some tundra 16s on CL. Maybe clean up the 16s in the summ
2) Go with the 305/70R16s for now. Cost is decent, weigth is OK, RPM change isn't too bad.
2a) If I was mainly using this as a trail rig, or regearing, 315s would be my choice.

Finally, I figure I'll add a basic lift/suspension refresh - 1.5-2 inches. Stock springs are surely saggy so it'll feel like more once I do it.
 
Yeah, after all that, I opted for a dobinsons lift - I've really appreciated their work on the 4runners and figured I'd give them a shot for the cruiser. I normally keep recovery gear in the back and will be doing something bumper wise for the rear so I figured the medium springs would be a good place to start.

Specs:
Dobinsons Lift Kit 1.5-2.5 for Toyota Land Cruiser 100 Series IFS 1998-2007Front
Torsion Bars: TB59-1600 - Heavy duty torsion bars Increased length 1160mm V8 gas engineFront
Shocks: GS59-782 Twin Tube Heavy DutyShock verification: I only want a 1.5" lift
Rear Springs: C59-167 (30mm-1.18") up to 220lbs constant Load
Rear Shocks: GS59-682 Twin Tube Heavy Duty
 
305s are on the way, so it'll be 33s, 1.5ish lift, LC wheels.
Next up, hunting down a winch since I got hosed on the amazon one and maybe some power upgrades. (And definitely reworking the wiring for the front locker.)
 
Tires showed up yesterday (way early) and I have a fantastic neighbor with a tire machine so we got busy.
Old dead all terrains peaking out of the back, new falkens ready to rock up front.
Later this week my dobinson's bits will show up, so next weekend she'll get a bit taller.
cruiser-new-shoes.jpg


On the winch front, I've decided to go old school and get a Warn 8247. It's going to get a rebuild, motor upgrade and synthetic line. Then I have to shoehorn the thing into the ARB. Should be good times with the grinder.
 
Tires showed up yesterday (way early) and I have a fantastic neighbor with a tire machine so we got busy.
Old dead all terrains peaking out of the back, new falkens ready to rock up front.
Later this week my dobinson's bits will show up, so next weekend she'll get a bit taller.
View attachment 2151909

On the winch front, I've decided to go old school and get a Warn 8247. It's going to get a rebuild, motor upgrade and synthetic line. Then I have to shoehorn the thing into the ARB. Should be good times with the grinder.

Keep us posted on how you fit the 8274. My dad has one laying around I could rebuild, but I'm not sure about fitting it to the 100
 
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I enjoy heavy duty tetris. :)
So the 8274 is definitely getting a motor upgrade. My current favorite is the RED winches ox motor with busbars and albright contactor setup. Super clean setup.
 

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