hello everyone. I am trying to figure out what I am doing wrong with my driveshaft install. My cruiser has a 4" lift with 35" bfg km3's. I just installed new 4.88's and air lockers. Since I have done this, I am now able to cruise comfortably on the freeway. Only issue is the vibration I am now experiencing and was expecting with the new found speed. I had a dc shaft put together at my local driveshaft shop. Question I have is, can I install the shaft with the dc on the front diff or does it need to be on the t-case? I'm running into a clearance issue if the latter. Has anyone experienced this? If so, what was the remedy? Thanks in advance.
dc driveshaft install (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter jaysonpwp
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richardlillard1
SILVER Star
Needs to be at the tcase. What is the clearance issue?
- Thread starter
- #3
It is hitting the side of the transmission pan.
richardlillard1
SILVER Star
What did you have them build? A 1350?
60wag
SILVER Star
You also need to rotate the axle to have a zero degree angle at the pinion joint or the DC isn't going to help.
The two ways to install a driveshaft for vibration free running are
1 - regular joints with both flange surfaces parallel
2- the t case level and the pinion pointed directly at the t case flange and the dc end on the t case
Unfortunately that means you have to have the dc joint on the t case. Those centers on the dc joint are big. You may have to build one with a smaller joint.
Hope it works out, good luck!
1 - regular joints with both flange surfaces parallel
2- the t case level and the pinion pointed directly at the t case flange and the dc end on the t case
Unfortunately that means you have to have the dc joint on the t case. Those centers on the dc joint are big. You may have to build one with a smaller joint.
Hope it works out, good luck!
richardlillard1
SILVER Star
Yes, but his problem is interference due to the diameter of the CV assembly.
It’s also possiblewith a parallel setup to max out the u-joint operating angle. I tried this once and while it didn’t vibrate, it was incredibly noisy.
Also the parallel set up means no caster and a lousy driving experience, unless you did a cut and turn on the axle, which is deep stuff.
Smaller diameter dc end is the fix it looks like
Smaller diameter dc end is the fix it looks like
richardlillard1
SILVER Star
My Tatton has 1310s. It works. Sourcing a Toyota shaft would likely be optimal. I find the spicer CV assemblies chunky and tend to self-clearance on droop.
richardlillard1
SILVER Star
No, putting the flanges parallel increases the caster considerably. When we tried this on mine the vehicle actively tried to return to center, to the point that the wheel we fighting me on sweeping turns.
LC4LIFE
Supporting Vendor
Same here, at approx 4" of lift to get pinion flange parallel to t-case flange, I ended up with too much caster. The operating angle of the joints was also more than I preferred and worried about premature wear on them.
