DBA slotted rotors warped after only a year (1 Viewer)

[zebrabeefj40]

So, with new pads and rotor surfaces...is it really necessary to break in or bed the new stuff?? I've done lots of brake work, never done this.

This is a CRITICAL step. Bed the pads to the new rotors and the brakes will work great for years. Do it wrong and you will think you warped a rotor in a matter of minutes. It's more important with performance stuff but even the crappy pads from Autozone need proper bedding to work right.

Nick

 

[brian]

i have never bed in brakes, or rebeded and never had any issues what so ever.

 

[lovetoski]

What streets do you use? I was wondering where to do this myself when the time comes.

Shilshole, by the Marina.

 

[red66toy]

Oh good call on shillshole. Luckily I am sure if a cop saw me they would probably just laugh at how long it took me to accelerate.

 

[Ironbark]

G'day

DBA are one of those companies that really put the best of everything into their products. I've been around a lot of different cars and 4 wheel drives and have seen DBA rotors fitted on everything from V8 Supercars to off-road racers to street rods and passenger cars. I've got no connection with the company but I've trusted my life to their products in several vehicles and would have no hesitation to do it again.

They do give quite specific break-in procedures for new disks and pads. Without seeing the cruiser in question my first reaction was to wonder if the disk and pad combination was correctly matched. The potential issues go beyond this as others have suggested. A few other things to check:

- return springs on calipers: are they installed? (Seen a few cruisers without them or incorrectly fitted)
- if you've rebuilt calipers are the disks and calipers running true in the same plane?
- check your pistons are retracting properly
- if using heat paint marked rotors are the paint marks showing signs of any overheating?
- has the cruiser been used off-road? If so make sure there's no mud build up in the vents.

If the pads were not correctly bedded in take them out and run them over a surface plate with some suitable abrasive paper - just enough to to deglaze. Then repeat the bed in procedure. This doesn't always work and new brake pads are fairly inexpensive in the scheme of things.

Cheers

Ironbark

 

[red66toy]

I would like to add one more thing to this thread. I had read various rumblings of people having problems using EBC pads with DBA rotors. Something about the pads leaving harmful deposits on the rotors. I emailed DBA and they got back to me this morning about the issue: "We typically suggest Hawk pads. Perhaps their LTS truck specific pads. Otherwise you can pretty much use any pads you want other than the EBC."
Some people use these in combo with no problems but it seems to be hit or miss. Just something to think about!

 

[TLC Norway]

Interesting thread. I have a pulse in my brakes, and after testing with a hard stop at a slight left turn on a dirt road, i could actually see the dirt "brake marks" created by the thread of the tires beeing slightly on-off-on-off and so on, confirming that i have the issue on my right hand side front brake. Did a proper bed/break in procedure, had nice brakes for a year or so with stock new rotors and 4runner calipers, cant remember brake pad brand. Will check runout today, check wheel bearings, if OK i will try to scuff them up and have another bed in.

On another note, i have never used a press for changing rotors, so i brass drift slam in the new studs on the rotors. Never had an issue with at least 15 toy axle brakes doing it like this. But i must admit i always want a press for that job...

I'm tempted to try indexing the rotor differently, take it off and rotating 120 degrees, two lugs. That will be the next step if above does not solve it.

 

[TLC Norway]

Okay, look at the runout... Haven't checked the fsm, but i think 0.15mm is a bit over the edge.
Checked inner and outer edge, and on the back the runout is about 0.03 mm if I'm reading the dial correctly.