thanks guys. i had these replaced, while the truck was in for other work, at Iron Pig Off Road, Toyota Land Cruiser experts - they used the term 'fusible links' with me when updating me on the phone and invoice - so i assume the knew these weren't "just wires" but I'll double check.
Dashlights on startup and low voltmeter (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter BlueCruiser84
- Start date
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It was the alternator on my cruizer
The same lights began to come on intermittently last weekend on my maiden voyage with my newly purchased 91 FJ80 after driving for hours to Jackson from SJ to my camping destination. I suspected loose belts so I tightened one of them slightly just to get by. One hour later on my way to Virginia city the bloody lights came back on' permanently this time.This time I realized that I'm done for, I have no tools and I'm not sure if its the alternator is really the problem. With the engine running, I disconnected one of the battery terminals and the engine turned off. This is a good sign that the alternator is the culpit. Next thing I did was to price one out from the local parts store and of course none of them has an alternator in stock. The second thing that I did was to buy a volt meter for $25.00 so I can trouble shoot better. The battery was stuck at 12.25V DC. This is my second affirmation that the alternator is my problem. The voltage is suppose to go up as the RPM increases. Many thanks to Robert Simpson, the owner of the Garnerville NV. Napa Auto Parts for getting me a replacement alternator from Sacramento overnight for an 8:am pick up. I was back on the road by 10:20am the next day. What did I learn?
The same lights began to come on intermittently last weekend on my maiden voyage with my newly purchased 91 FJ80 after driving for hours to Jackson from SJ to my camping destination. I suspected loose belts so I tightened one of them slightly just to get by. One hour later on my way to Virginia city the bloody lights came back on' permanently this time.This time I realized that I'm done for, I have no tools and I'm not sure if its the alternator is really the problem. With the engine running, I disconnected one of the battery terminals and the engine turned off. This is a good sign that the alternator is the culpit. Next thing I did was to price one out from the local parts store and of course none of them has an alternator in stock. The second thing that I did was to buy a volt meter for $25.00 so I can trouble shoot better. The battery was stuck at 12.25V DC. This is my second affirmation that the alternator is my problem. The voltage is suppose to go up as the RPM increases. Many thanks to Robert Simpson, the owner of the Garnerville NV. Napa Auto Parts for getting me a replacement alternator from Sacramento overnight for an 8:am pick up. I was back on the road by 10:20am the next day. What did I learn?
- Without running the accessories, I was able to run 45 miles and only drain 1/2 a volt from the battery.This meant I could have gone further just in case.
- Remove the air pump before removing the alternator, it will save you time.
- Bring tools and a manual with you on long trips
