Dash removal necessary to remove HVAC blower assembly?

[ElBurro]

Hello,

The sealing foam on my recirculation doors are rotted and allowing fumes and dust to enter the cabin.

I have my evaporator box out for cleaning and was wondering if the whole dash needs to come out to also remove the blower/recirculation assembly (the whole box).

The manual states that the dash AND support bar must be removed, but from just eyeballing it, it would seem that I could remove it without going thru the ordeal.

I also don't want to ruin the foam that's left on the fresh air intake to body gap in case the blower box doesn't come out lol.

Has anyone removed the blower box assembly without removing the dash before?

Thanks!

 

[Kernal]

IDK, but if you dig into it take a lot of photos and post them up to show the rest of us the way.

 

[Rusty Marlin]

The blower comes out easy.
The rest of it is a deep dive into the dash. Look up removal of front heater box or front heater core.
I count myself lucky to not have experienced that particular pleasure yet.

 

[ElBurro]

I don't like to leave threads abandoned.

I tackled this job last week, and for a RHD HDJ81, its safe to say that the whole blower and recirculation door unit comes out without removing the dash and support bar as noted on the FSM. It was pretty easy. All my sealing foams are shot. No wonder I could smell other cars exhausts as if recirculation was off. I could even smell my own exhaust if the winds changed.

There is 1 nut on the blower unit that is a bit difficult to get to right behind the dash support bar. I'm going to guess that this is the reason that the FSM calls for dash removal. Sheesh.

As for the foams in the heater and vent position dampers unit, I guess I will tackle those the day my heater core leaks LOL.

Thanks again.

PICS

 

[Darne]

I used Neoprene self adhesive sheets I got from Amazon similar to this thread.

reassembly of the A/C and heater / was alarming ATF puddle, heater questions and a cold day in NOVA and aircon ignorance (1 Viewer)​

The neoprene is much tougher than the foam.
Hope this helps.

 

[ElBurro]

I used Neoprene self adhesive sheets I got from Amazon similar to this thread.

reassembly of the A/C and heater / was alarming ATF puddle, heater questions and a cold day in NOVA and aircon ignorance (1 Viewer)​

The neoprene is much tougher than the foam.
Hope this helps.

Thanks for the tip!

 

[ElBurro]

I used Neoprene self adhesive sheets I got from Amazon similar to this thread.

reassembly of the A/C and heater / was alarming ATF puddle, heater questions and a cold day in NOVA and aircon ignorance (1 Viewer)​

The neoprene is much tougher than the foam.
Hope this helps.

Darne, would you have further info regarding the neoprene you used for your blend doors?

How compressible is it?

I ordered some "soft" poron open cell foam in 1/4 inch thickness. Looking at the non compressed sections of my original foam, this seems to be about the right thickness.

My issue is that the new foam does not easily compress when the recirculation door is shut. I doubt the servo motor would be able to apply enough force to compress this new foam.

The original foam feels more like a softer headliner foam.

So far, 40 bucks down the toilet in foam LOL

How thick and "Squishy" was the neoprene foam you bought?

Thanks!

 

[Darne]

The neoprene sheets are pretty soft. They compress easily but "bounce back" quickly. I can't compare them to the original foam because it basically turned to dust when I started removing it. So far the neoprene has worked well. The 1/8" thickness replaces most of the original foam. There are a piece or two where 1/4" is required, but I can't remember where.

 

[gummycarbs]

For what it's worth, I used EVA foam to replace the crumbling sealing foam on my motor housing and damper door. Seems to have worked well. I'd probably use the same stuff for the recirc door if I'd been smart enough to pull it out when I did my AC last year! It's available at craft stores like Joann's. Nerds use it for cosplay. I used Landau Top & Trim adhesive, but 3M weatherstrip adhesive would probably work great, too.