The cap to the Dash Pot Assembly was also burnt through. Do I need this? Everything I've found says that it just prevents the throttle from closing too rapidly, like a soft close drawer.
Dash Pot Assembly (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter JasonOrville
- Start date
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EscapeWagon62
SILVER Star
It’s a nice to have not must have part.
- Thread starter
- #3
Thanks. I found the cap sitting between my intake and valve cover in its present condition. She seems to run fine but I don’t have experience with, the dash pot working, to compare it to.
I find it makes a huge difference on mine! Instead of the revs free-falling to below idle and nearly stalling (sometimes actually stalling), the revs free-fall to about 1000rpm and then slow down to idle - is is only a second or so, but for me it is well worth it..
EscapeWagon62
SILVER Star
Fair enough and I’ll clarify my response.
I’m running a 62 where I swapped out the A440F for an H55.
Since the throttle body has two cables (accelerator and transmission kickdown cable) attached from the factory, I found that I would hang up (high idle) without the tension of the kickdown cable pulling it closed (spring tension on the throttlebody)
Adjusting the dash pot to fully retracted (essentially never engaged) removed just enough resistance to let my throttle body close and avoid high idle.
Should have clarified when I posted.
I’m running a 62 where I swapped out the A440F for an H55.
Since the throttle body has two cables (accelerator and transmission kickdown cable) attached from the factory, I found that I would hang up (high idle) without the tension of the kickdown cable pulling it closed (spring tension on the throttlebody)
Adjusting the dash pot to fully retracted (essentially never engaged) removed just enough resistance to let my throttle body close and avoid high idle.
Should have clarified when I posted.
