Dark Transfer case oil: why? (1 Viewer)

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So, what synthetic (brand & weight) is best for the TC? Maybe I will just search and avoid the flip offs!
 
Mobil 1 75w-90 works great. There are others available, but the Mobil is the easiest to find. You get this: :D no digital fingers.
 
all right, I take it then that the only reason why the oil in the TC might get darker faster than others, say the diffs, is because of higher temps. I'll just give it another short cycle with Dino to see how fast this one will get dark and then switch to synth if it doesn't look good enough.
 
sounds good.
 
I use mobil 1 75w-90 for the same reasons Cruiser Drew mentions, Redline has an excellent reputation with its gear oils, I have not made the effort to search out a source and pay the extra $$ for it but it is only aprox 2 quarts so will not break the bank.

from what I have seen no other synthics need to be considered.
 
I use mobil 1 75w-90 for the same reasons Cruiser Drew mentions, Redline has an excellent reputation with its gear oils, I have not made the effort to search out a source and pay the extra $$ for it but it is only aprox 2 quarts so will not break the bank.

from what I have seen no other synthics need to be considered.
 
If you want to know what's causing it, just send a sample to Blackstone.

If the report shows any metals, simply disassemble the transfer and have the components analyzed for metal content. If more than one component has the same content, just buy new ones and compare their weight to your parts. Then you can start a new poll, "who's idler gear has lost more than .0000015 grams?":rolleyes:

You see it's just that simple!:bounce:










Or just change your oil and go wheeling!
 
Tools R Us said:
......just change your oil and go wheeling!


Pretty much sums up what I think you should do.
Knowing you, however, all I guess I can say is "just change your oil"



:flipoff2:
 
I have been using the 80 dash 90 from Valvoline by the 5 gallon bucket and it stays clean and gets changed every 10 to 20 thousand miles depending on if I think I sucked any md into the center case. My budget is too tight for synthetic gear lube. But at 219 K miles I don't have any problems with any of the pumpkins.
 
mickey_rubicon said:
I have been using the 80 dash 90 from Valvoline by the 5 gallon bucket and it stays clean and gets changed every 10 to 20 thousand miles depending on if I think I sucked any md into the center case. My budget is too tight for synthetic gear lube. But at 219 K miles I don't have any problems with any of the pumpkins.


good to know your pumpkins are okay...how's the transfer case? that's what's being discussed here.


e9999 -- it's always good to follow the lead of another forum member...use the dino, like mickey does...you should be just fine...



:D
 
sorry I forgot to add my previos hit (staying on topic) that I only see darkening in gear oil when I suck mud in there or run it a lot in 4 low and not change it enough. it is still not that bad, this is only gear oil. Thanks.
 
Sorry - Thanks. By the way I call all 3 differentials (front, center, rear) being their there be call differentials "pumpkins" - for your gypsy dictionary reference.
 
I've got the same problem here. I changed the TC when I got the truck (111k miles) with Mobil 1 75-90 it was very dark don't know how long it was in there. Just changed it again 15k miles later and it was still dark. After a wheeling trip this past weekend and after a few hundred miles I had to drain it again to replace a leaky rear output seal and the oil was dark again! Whats the deal I know it runs hot but it shouldn't cook the oil like that, no other problems with the TC.

Thanks
George
 
this reminds me to change TC gear oil. currently looking for a thread on how to do this. especially that i just knew that this is gets more heat than the tranny. thats why i h8mud and love you mudders:)
 
I can imagine if your oil was bad for long time there will be deposit there that will get washed by new oil, especially Mobil that tends to work as the solvent. You may want to change again soon just to check.
Instead of using all Mobil try make few changes with one can of Mobil and the rest NAPA oil which is $3.99. often changes should wash your gunk out.
 
I can imagine if your oil was bad for long time there will be deposit there that will get washed by new oil, especially Mobil that tends to work as the solvent. You may want to change again soon just to check.
Instead of using all Mobil try make few changes with one can of Mobil and the rest NAPA oil which is $3.99. often changes should wash your gunk out.
When I opened the case I did notice a blackish gray greasy film on most of the non moving parts.
 
As RavenT suggested, the T-Case is the only place that I use the synthetic. (Make sure to clean up the drain plug magnet).
 
When I opened the case I did notice a blackish gray greasy film on most of the non moving parts.
Yea you will always get gunk where
bad oil + high temperature.
No way around it except to change oil often or use high quality oil.
If you keep changing oil often gunk will get washed away. To keep price of changes down use the mix of oil. I was surprised when I opened my TC and found oil black. Then find out it has clutch pack coupler and that explained.
if you want that thing gone quicker when you changing oil, right before you drain oil, open fill plug and spray carb cleaner inside TC. let it sit for some time and drain the oil.
 

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