Daphne FJ62 R2.8 (1 Viewer)

[Hojack]

I could really use these:

Awesome... drool

 

[1811Retired]

I’m having Torfab install the R2.8 in my 1987 60 (January 2020)...I have a new H55F installed currently. I hope it pairs well with the Cummins?

 

[Code Red]

I'm waiting on my February bonus to schedule with Torfab.

Interested to hear how you like it offroad. On paper, the 3FE has more torque below 1,000 or so, but the 2.8 jumps up as the turbo spools up and is way ahead by 1,500. With an auto, that's probably gonna be perfect, but I may have to change my style a little in a manual.

I left foot brake my H55/3FE down to 4-500 rpm sometimes (where the R2.8 has about 110ft/lb and the 3FE has about 150 ft/lb). I am worried that I won't be able to make that work anymore, or perhaps it's time to get that lower gear set for the transfer case.

 

[Seth S]

Scheel Mann vario f seats... this is where my salvation lies. They are on my list and I suspect are the first seats in history that will fit me. Just the $$$$ right now

 

[Cincodemustache]

Thanks! Can't wait to try it out off road in low range/locked. The low-end torque should be right at home there.

Replaced the hatch lock pad. What an absolute PITA!
Also upgraded to the 80-Series rear wiper arm w/13" blade.
View attachment 2136451

Yikes. Any tips and tricks you can send my way? This hatch pad is on the list for me to do this weekend.

 

[staggrlee]

I’m having Torfab install the R2.8 in my 1987 60 (January 2020)...I have a new H55F installed currently. I hope it pairs well with the Cummins?

As @Code Red said you may have to adjust your driving habits to accommodate, but a lot of the manners depend on your final gear ratios/tire size choice.

Heaps of people also run the the H55 with the 4BT which is similar in torque curve. Also talk to Tor, he originally did his with a 5sp and he'll give you the best advice.

 

[davegonz]

OK, I'm going to steal some of those interior mod ideas! Great looking project.

 

[staggrlee]

Scheel Mann vario f seats... this is where my salvation lies. They are on my list and I suspect are the first seats in history that will fit me. Just the $$$$ right now

It's funny how your price appetite changes as you get older for things like mattresses, chairs etc. I have sciatica and my back seizes up and my left leg goes numb on long drives, even in the much more comfortable 100 seats. Looking forward to reporting on those. Sat in them in an 80 briefly and they're the real deal.

 

[staggrlee]

Yikes. Any tips and tricks you can send my way? This hatch pad is on the list for me to do this weekend.

Take pictures before you unhook the actuator rods and release the snap ring. The spring goes back on over the outside of plastic back end of the lock core assembly and not between the lock button and that part. Ask me how I know.

Definitely make sure you've got the right size snap ring pliers. The hardest part is reassembly and getting the lock core and plastic horn mated properly with the spring on before putting the actuator assembly back on, and then holding that in place, reinstall the circlip.

Use a long bungie to hold the hatch down to where you can sit on the tailgate and work on it. At some stages it helps to have the pad/barrel clipped in place and loose in others. Use some lock-specific lube like Lock-Shot in the barrel and lock core.

See this thread for some good reference photos.

 

[Seth S]

It's funny how your price appetite changes as you get older for things like mattresses, chairs etc. I have sciatica and my back seizes up and my left leg goes numb on long drives, even in the much more comfortable 100 seats. Looking forward to reporting on those. Sat in them in an 80 briefly and they're the real deal.

I’m on the same page. Spent months researching race seats. Finally found one that fits my size. Had to order it from uk.

 

[Hojack]

Really I’m sure we’d all like to know the Torfab cost for this...

 

[staggrlee]

Really I’m sure we’d all like to know the Torfab cost for this...

I can appreciate that, but it wouldn't be fair to Tor for me to set expectations here regarding prices by quoting my cost. Every build starts and ends in different places.

But I will say that:

Tor's on record here with the cost of the engine/trans conversion being ~$30k w/H55 IIRC. Add more for 6L80e w/driveline mods, & another ~$3k for Cummins AC compressor/mount and a full system R134a retrofit.

By my rough estimate it was about $15-17k parts/labor for my axle and brake conversion with complete rebuilds of the diffs w/lockers, rebuilt Birfs, brakes/bearings/seals, and Radflo shocks and with Tor sourcing the 80 donor axles.

 

[Hojack]

Can easily see spending hard earned money in something unique such as your 60. If taken care of it’ll only increase in value.
While most people are buying vehicles every few years and loosing money you’ll have something that’ll be so fun drive and stand out.
I spent hard earned money on my 60 with a 4BT Cummins and don’t regret any of it except I took a lot of time away from my family. For awhile it was a thorn in my wife’s side and she called my 60, “ the other women.”
Now its in the tinker stage where new stuff gets slowly added and updated. Some ideas may be taken from your build. I’m just down in Oregon, it’d be so awesome to meet up.
Jason

 

[Cincodemustache]

Take pictures before you unhook the actuator rods and release the snap ring. The spring goes back on over the outside of plastic back end of the lock core assembly and not between the lock button and that part. Ask me how I know.

Definitely make sure you've got the right size snap ring pliers. The hardest part is reassembly and getting the lock core and plastic horn mated properly with the spring on before putting the actuator assembly back on, and then holding that in place, reinstall the circlip.

Use a long bungie to hold the hatch down to where you can sit on the tailgate and work on it. At some stages it helps to have the pad/barrel clipped in place and loose in others. Use some lock-specific lube like Lock-Shot in the barrel and lock core.

See this thread for some good reference photos.

Amazing...thank you!

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Need videos!

 

[Elbert]

Good looking setup. What is the cooling solution....what I could see seems to be electric fan or fans? Can you post some pics from the passenger side of the engine bay looking back towards the driver side....showing the rear of the radiator. Stock radiator? If I missed that in the narrative above just let me know. I like the details too, I may need to see about that rear hatch light, if he is selling those or if that is just a custom thing. I've been on the hunt lately to see about better lights on the interior.

I do think there is some magic in getting two different brand drive- line components to work seamless together. IE the power-band of the engine vs the shift points and manners of the automatic transmission. Getting the magic of the power of the engine along with the turbo boost to play well with the shift points and "manners" of the automatic may take some time (programming time and or dyno time).

 

[staggrlee]

What is the cooling solution....what I could see seems to be electric fan or fans?

Stock (new aftermarket) radiator with push and pull electric fans. Custom shroud from Tor.

Going to look into tuneability of the ZeroGravity controller's shift maps and gear selector functions. It has the ability to reassign gear selector positions. Currently 3rd has a "sport" shift map that is just too abrupt in shifts.

 

[bottombracket]

This is an absolutely gorgeous build. Well done.

 

[Elbert]

Looks good. I like SPAL electric fans, I've experimented with some of the 16 inch versions on a different vehicle (which looks like what you have on the rear) assume fans, and they move some air...which of course is what you want. If SPAL makes it....that would be my choice too on electric fans. SPAL makes a good relay harnesses too (or they did, I assume they still do). Are you aware of what is controlling the electric fans (on/off).

Great project... I'll have to stick with the GM power on mine (right now 5.7 vortec) but maybe I'll move over to 5.3 or 6.0 GM SBC with matching GM auto transmission in the future.

 

[staggrlee]

Are you aware of what is controlling the electric fans (on/off).

The electric fan controller is reading the coolant temp sensor. Set points for the fans are 190F on/170 off IIRC. You can really see the temp come down quickly when they cycle on.