Damn radiator's leakin' (1 Viewer)

[Spook50]

My radiator is about 11 years old, still looks brand new, but it's leaking at the seam between the upper tank and the radiator itself. I have to put some coolant in my overflow tank every time I drive it now, so it's getting worse than it initially was. Would I be better off just buying a new radiator, taking it to a shop to be soldered, or is there a good sealant I can order that I can reseal the joint with? I'd have to put it off if buying new is necessary (I'm broke and don't want to use funds I have set aside for my fuel gauge regulator project), so I'm really hoping mine can be fixed.

 

[DirtRoads]

Find a local rad shop and have them assess, attempt a field fix with JB weld, or buy an aluminum radiator from Ebay. I'd choose option 3, but you might have decent luck with 1 or 2 depending on how much time you have.

 

[OSS]

Fixing that leaky top is easy for a radiator shop, but you need to find a shop. What they'd do (for a proper fix) is unsolder the cap off the top of the radiator and remove it, then run a thin rod down each coolant tube to clean out any crusty stuff while they were in there, then solder it back up.
But that leak you have now could be the messenger that the radiator is dissolving and any repair attempted to it will only be a temporary band-aid until the next spot springs a leak.

 

[SteveH]

The 3 radiators my '60 and 62 have had have all lasted around 12 years.

It seems that 60-series radiators have gotten more expensive in the last few years, but get it soldered if you can do so cheaply. But, do save your $$ for the impending replacement. Some radiator shops seem to charge a fortune for a 'rod-out and resolder', so call around. Don't put $250 into an old radiator that costs $375 to replace.

 

[60Works]

Absolutely fix your OEM radiator. The new brass is much thinner than OEM. Will pin hole sooner. The solder used overseas has a lower ratio of silver to lead (weak EPA) so it melts at a lower temperature. Hottest water enters at the top tank so that's where leaks almost always start.

If your already running the non-OEM brass it's probably a wash between fixing and replacing. Time is an issue with fixing because you have to wait to get it repaired.

I bought the one recommended by mudders and was so disappointed I sent it back. Then tried to order the recommended aluminum replacement. Back ordered for months. Good warrantee though.

A good radiator shop, if you can find one, will repair to better than new.

 

[Spike Strip]

With strong emphasis on 'good' radiator shop.

It's an easy fix and make sure they pressure test it underwater.

 

[TexasBlue]

I had my OEM Toyo radiator re soldered and it lasted 18 months..but I did not know how old it was..original? Cost was for clean, re seal, pressure test and repaint $150. That was 2 summers ago, now I'm in process of replacing with a Spectra/CSF 2708..$350 from Rockauto.. Aluminum or Brass is your call.

I did not buy new at that time since I had to replace grill, hoses, etc. My 2 cents is replace with new. You will have peace of mind with new part.

 

[Saucerman]

Rad shop Spook. I had a local radiator shop re-solder the radiator on my 62 and it was fairly cheap and has held up well. They flushed it out too and checked for leaks. This was all for around $125, but I had to remove and re-install.

 

[lcolon]

Had mine "rodded out" initially when it started leaking as well. One thing to note - I had my brother in law who is a mechanic call it in to the shop for me. The price that they give mechanics is much cheaper than what you pay retail. The second time it started leaking it was pinholes along the tank. I chose to get the aluminum one and have not looked back. The aluminum one does cool better than the old brass radiator

 

[Spook50]

Well I couldn't afford the downtime to remove it completely to take it in and have it rodded out and soldered, but I did have a mobile mechanic come out and solder the entire seam after I drained out some coolant. He used a MAPP torch and plumbing solder, and filled the seam pretty good, so once I reinstall the fan assembly I'll refill and burp the system and hope it doesn't leak anymore. If it's good, I'll start putting money aside to replace it once it starts leaking again.

Sure wish there was bolt-in aluminum radiators that had the built in transmission cooler. Looks like I'll just have to drop the $400 on a CSF. The one in there now is not a Toyota rad. Came from Performance Radiator about 11 years ago.

 

[Spook50]

Well my radiator is screwed. Soldering it just opened up another big leak, this time where the tubes meet the upper tank floor. Started pissing immediately after filling it.

So before I blow $400 on a new CSF radiator, are there any options for a bolt-in aluminum radiator that still has the integrated tranny cooler and mounting for the fan shroud? Yes I have an electric fan, but I designed the mounts so that it would bolt in in place of the shroud.

Edit: Well it's way more than I'm willing to spend, but if anyone's die hard for a bolt-in aluminum for a 62, Griffin makes one: 1988 TOYOTA LAND CRUISER Griffin Exact Fit Radiator Combos TOY-70011

 

[MANUCHAO]

I run a champion Rad ....
It has the tranny cooler built in....
Do t know it these are still available.....
It bolted with no drama...
No issues going strong a few years now