Damn door won't open after speaker install... (1 Viewer)

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Apr 17, 2005
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Tucson, AZ
I put some Infinity 6000CS comps (damn they sound nice) in the 96 Cruiser yesterday and now the door won't open. I have no clue what could have happend. The linkage all seems to be fine as I can look in and see it trying to push the latch down, the lock both key and button do what they should but it just won't open no matter what I try or do. Anybody have any ideas here?
 
Junk,

How does he get the panel off if the door won't open? Am I missing something here?

Chip
 
How does he get the panel off if the door won't open? Am I missing something here?

This would be the reason for my post.. I'm not as stupid as my wife says :) If I could get in there I'd be okay... Already broke the darn panel that holds the power window switch pulling on it too hard to make sure I couldn't get into the linkage from there before I ruled that out.
 
Well, it's been a little while since I have had the door panels out, but if you take the arm rest and the switch panel out can you get to any part of the linkage? On second thought, I don't think you can. What about the inside door handle cover? That gives a little access, right? Sorry I'm not more help - hope it works out.

Chip
 
Heard this once before here, IIRC something plastic breaks in the linkage.

Maybe look at the opposite door and figure out where to use a Slim Jim to get it open.
 
Okay! Same exact issue with my door other then it being the front ps instead of the rear. Door panel WON'T come off without the speaker gone and those screws are behind the dash so it isn't going to come off. I can take off that outside strip and see what's going on down there but I don't know what the hell the issue could be.

Maybe CDan has dealt with or heard of this? I'm honestly 100% clueless here and have started to think it couldn't have to do with the speaker install...
 
Nope I don’t think it has anything to do directly with the speaker, maybe something got bumped during the install or it could just be coincidental.

Take the other door skin off and look at the latch mechanism, buy or make a slim jim and figure out where to put it to open the door. Once you have the door open you can pull that door skin off and fix the problem. That would be the lease damaging way to fix it.
 
I think somehow the grill is putting pressure on the door panel, and if the door panel is twealed just right, it presses on the long slender wire/rod that opens the door.

Don't know how to help, but I had to go back into mine and free up the Dynamat around that rod so it would slide more freely.
 
Don't have much to contribute here, but at least your passengers will look cool Bo Duke-ing getting in and out of your truck now! At least it wasn't your driver door.
 
If this well help pull the seat out, and give your self more room. And then the door panel is a little easyer to work on . the door panle is just 4 scews 3 inthe handle and 1 in the door latch.. Lift the arm rest up and it well pop up. and the other one is in the top of the grab handle.. this sould give you a enough room to look in and see whats up... I hope M2S helps... CRAIG
 
It will be fun removing the seats without being able to open the door.
 
wob said:
It will be fun removing the seats without being able to open the door.
Shouldn't be too bad - you can get both of the back bolts from the rear door and the fronts are easy to get at from above. I'll bet with the seat removed you can start prying those little plastic inserts from the back corner and work your way around ... then just lift the panel off (don't forget to remove handle and door pull pieces). I think the linkage is just bound somehow -

Tucker
 
From what I recall on those(it's been a long time since I have done one). There are little plastic holders for the rods from the door handle to the acuator. Most of the time it's the little plastic holders that break. There on each end of the rods. Most of the time i've seen them break at the handle(outside door handle)
 
If i am not mistaken you are ker******
what happens is the retrun catch for the door latch wears out. there is a spring in it and ir imbeds itself.
as far as your problem now you might be looking at a partial removal of the dash to get to the speaker
screws. FWIW I will bet that it is the linkage. you should not have pressure from the speaker grilles against the dash sides. this will cause you nothing ubut greif.
My only thought would be to see if you can dremel the screws that hold the speaker in place off, possibly slide a hack saw blade in there and pull them off that way.
Dave
 
When you installed the new speaker, did you make sure there were no wires or harnesses in the way of the "door check"? The door check is the long, flat metal piece attached to the hinge by a single pin. The door check, when the door is closed, will recess into the door's hollow cavity. If there are any wires, or obtrusions in the area of the door check, there is the possibility that the wires or object can get caught up in the mechanism. If this happens, the door will be hard to open and/or hard to close.
 
When you installed the new speaker, did you make sure there were no wires or harnesses in the way of the "door check"? The door check is the long, flat metal piece attached

Yes, this I was smart enough to do. I honestly don't know what the hell the issue is. It's in the latch someplace but I'm clueless. I know I can pull the whole door panel off but there has to be a way to open it with the outter trim piece off and using a long rod/punch or something...
 
sonoranfun said:
using a long rod/punch or something...


its called a slim jim
 
Raven,
If it is the same problem I had a slim jim will not help. you can sacrifice your outer belt moulding to the cause and possibly bend some rod to depress the switch in the door enough to make the release engage but that would be my last resort. There is one screw on the back edge of the door wich you will have to cut or tear off to get the belt moulding to come free but it might be easeir than taking abart the dash.
Dave
 

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