DA Sander Sand Paper

Trollhole

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Doing prep on the body for for primer. Don't really want to strip it to bare metal except in a few spots. What type of sandpaper and grit should I start and the steps to go through to get it finished up for primer? After priming do I need to sand it again? And when should I switch modes on the DA?
 
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Where your going to metal hit it with 80 and then feather edge it with 180. I guessing the paint elsewhere is pretty beat, so I'd look at going at it with 180 may be 80 depending on things. For example, when I did mine, I started with 80 to take off the rattle can and get down to original primer in a quick fashion. After some observation, the primer was checked or crazed if you will from the sun....out came the 36 at that point as I knew the end of he line for me was bare naked steel.

When you get it down to the point you are happy with the looks and say you have some bare metal spots...prime them up first with 3 coats of primer covering a progressively larger area with each coat. Then hand sand/block it out with a little light sanding with 180 followed with a light sanding with 240. Next prime the whole pig with 3 coats of primer and then sand with 240 on the DA. Using a soft pad on the DA is invaluable ...keeps you from burning through the edges. Use a 3M scratch in those tough spots. After this, blow it down real good, clean it with prep solv, tack it off and then paint on the sealer. Then tack after dry to touch and put on the color. Depending on the paint type your using it will vary from here on out.
 
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I would add in wetsanding with 320 after happy with your primer output. Wet sanding is a great way to get a nice smooth finish if you are topcoating and expecting grand results.:beer:
 
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when im preping to paint without rust.i use the crossfire 180 from napa then finish it wirh 220.now if yow want to strip more off then go with 80. the cross fire is good stuff;)for the price
 
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I would add in wetsanding with 320 after happy with your primer output. Wet sanding is a great way to get a nice smooth finish if you are topcoating and expecting grand results.:beer:
dry sand then wetsand.it seems people miss some when only wet sanding.
 

merbesfield

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Where your going to metal hit it with 80 and then feather edge it with 180. I guessing the paint elsewhere is pretty beat, so I'd look at going at it with 180 may be 80 depending on things. For example, when I did mine, I started with 80 to take off the rattle can and get down to original primer in a quick fashion. After some observation, the primer was checked or crazed if you will from the sun....out came the 36 at that point as I knew the end of he line for me was bare naked steel.

When you get it down to the point you are happy with the looks and say you have some bare metal spots...prime them up first with 3 coats of primer covering a progressively larger area with each coat. Then hand sand/block it out with a little light sanding with 180 followed with a light sanding with 240. Next prime the whole pig with 3 coats of primer and then sand with 240 on the DA. Using a soft pad on the DA is invaluable ...keeps you from burning through the edges. Use a 3M scratch in those tough spots. After this, blow it down real good, clean it with prep solv, tack it off and then paint on the sealer. Then tack after dry to touch and put on the color. Depending on the paint type your using it will vary from here on out.


Some questions. What grit? is the 3M pads you use? What brand or DA is good for a shop that does not do body work as a profession? Can you tell me more about the Sealer you use before painting? Is there a web site that I could go to to learn how to of paint and body? Thanks, Mark
 
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You will want to use the maroon Scotchbrite 3m pads (p/n 07447). Whatever DA you buy, make sure that you get a 3/8" stroke DA. All of the others will only prematurely load the sandpaper with dust. If you are not planning on doing alot of sanding in the future, go with an ASTRO 3/8" palm sander. If you want a good one, buy the Dynabrade 3/8" palm sander. If you haven't done alot of primer sanding in the past, I would go with 320 grit instead of the 240 mentioned previously. This will help keep you from sanding through the primer so easily. So, you should be able to get by with 80, 180, and 320 grits, and of course a box of maroon Scotchbrite. Remember, that the sanding and prep steps are the most critical part of the process in painting your rig.
 
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merbesfield,

I think grinch hit most of the points except the sealer. Sealer is a non sanding prime coat that fills tiny sanding scratches, locks down all your various areas of prime and paint, helps reduce any top coat shrinking and helps with color coverage. On my 55, the blue (854) covered quick and easy the white (031) took more material. Using a good sealer really helps with coverage issues that may arise with some colors that are more difficult to get right.
 

merbesfield

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I see a lot of DA's listed with 3/16" and 3/32" stroke. Not many with the 3/8" stroke. How important is that? And does the difference in stroke do to your work etc.?
 

merbesfield

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Is the Dynabrade brand worth the $100.00 over the Astro brand? When you say am I going to do a lot of sanding? No I am not running a body shop, but yes I do want the tool to last longer than just this one project. Is the Astro crap?
 

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