Cylinder wall opinions (1 Viewer)

[Razorrodent]

I pulled the head on my 1fz that came in the '93 I bought a little over a month ago. I found the tensioner shoe broken loose so I'v epulled it to do the timing chain assy. I finally got the head off this evening a my heart sank when I looked at 5 and particularly 6 The wall in 6 as badly pitted. IDK for sure but it puts me in mind that it had water in it at some point. It has fairly fresh looking cross hatch so I think someone pulled the head and honed it at some point but not sure. I was hoping to get away with a simple timing set basic gaskets and be good but now it looks like it may need to see the machine shop first and be bored which will drastically increase the price to where I'm more seriously considering going ahead and doing a LS swap. I know its hard to say but what do you guys think happened and do you think its bore-able. Thought Ideas comments are welcome.

 

[Kaninja]

Wow that does look really rough. I saw similar in an old 302 that had been sitting for 6 years or so in a damp environment without being started.

At minimum it needs to bored out if it can be. Can't hone it out, and left unchecked it can cause ring wear, blow-by, excessive oil consumption.

LS is calling you from the junkyard.

 

[Pin_Head]

It needs to be bored out and new pistons and rings installed. Bite the bullet.

 

[Razorrodent]

After looking at it closer I think it may already have been bored. The piston markings look different than shown in the fsm and have 4 0 stamped in the dish area. Also the fire ring over laps into the combustion chamber in places. I wont know for sure till i can get a hold of a bore mike and check the diameters.

 

[SmokingRocks]

It's been overheated before, looks like perhaps two times.

Those cloudy marks are typical when an engine is shut down hot and the pistons leave heat marks on the cylinder walls. It's usually not anything more than a aesthetic thing but your case looks a bit more extreme than others I've seen.

 

[excessive]

I am in Charleston and have a good 96 engine block if you need it . Let me know

 

[slow95z]

i also have a few good blocks, in fact i even have good bottom end from a 93.

 

[half k cruiser]

People can speculate all they want from those photos, but the block needs to go to the machine shop and see what they have to say about it.

 

[Tools R Us]

From looking at my screen, those look like cylinders that have sat with moisture in them, surface rust marks. Have seen that a bunch of times on rigs that are driven infrequently, like FJ40s, or blown head gasket. To be perfect, will need to be bored, have put several back together, other than slightly higher oil consumption, ran well, but the old F motors are hard to kill.

 

[BEE-JAY42]

Asking people for advice on the internet is a good way of ensuring you keep yourself up at night with worry.

You don't know how long it has run looking like that (pretty safe to say that didn't happen 5 minutes before you pulled the head) and you don't know how much longer it will run looking like that. Put the head back on, forget you ever saw it and start to make plans for what you are going to do if it fails.

Worst case you've bought yourself sometime to organize a replacement, best case the engine will continue to run without missing a beat.

 

[dogfishlake]

I'm with @Tools R Us on being able to slap it back together and it will run for a long time (with lower compression and higher oil consumption). That said, the minimum cost on a head gasket job is kind of high, unfortunately. The slap together approach would buy you time (probably years if need be) to prepare for an ls swap or maybe rebuild another 1fz-fe to swap out.

 

[dogfishlake]

I put a v2203 kubota diesel head back on a block with one ugly cylinder and it ran like a champ. Poverty is the mother of desperate moves

 

[BillyGoatMTB]

Morning Mud

Looking for a second opinion I think my cylinder walls look pretty good and I'm going to leave the bottom end alone.

Any thoughts on the timing chain it all specs out well within tolerance against the FSM.

Thanks

 

[SmokingRocks]

Walls look great.

It’s up to you in the chain, I would do the guides and tensioner though.

 

[BillyGoatMTB]

Walls look great.

It’s up to you in the chain, I would do the guides and tensioner though.

Thanks, wanted another opinion on the walls, compression looked great before tear down

I have a chain, sprockets, guides and a tentioner on the way, I have been amassing parts for a future shortblock new build.

The oil pans in the rig to pull look like a PAIN IN THE A#@ .... To get at the timing chain cover....

It may bother me not doing the timing chain components

 

[manofthewoods]

Thanks, wanted another opinion on the walls, compression looked great before tear down

I have a chain, sprockets, guides and a tentioner on the way, I have been amassing parts for a future shortblock new build.

The oil pans in the rig to pull look like a PAIN IN THE A#@ .... To get at the timing chain cover....

It may bother me not doing the timing chain components

View attachment 2979285

Agree on the guides and tensioner. I did chain and sprockets, but my engine was out - mucho easier.

 

[BillyGoatMTB]

Agree on the guides and tensioner. I did chain and sprockets, but my engine was out - mucho easier.

Thanks
I think if I don't do them and considering my Blackstone will reports her spotless with the cylinder walls looking great I may not be back in here for a very long time.

I better play it safe pull the oil pans and knock out the timing chain and timing chain cover o-rings.

 

[BILT4ME]

And while you're in there....

Rear heater hard lines (upper)
engine mounts
transmission mount
PS hoses
transmission hoses
100% coolant hoses
100% vacuum hoses
fuel filter under the intake
water pump
radiator cap
oil sensor seal on side of block
coolant bypass O-rings and short pipe section
and a whole bunch more of other stuff I hadn't thought of yet.

 

[manofthewoods]

And while you're in there....

Rear heater hard lines (upper)
engine mounts
transmission mount
PS hoses
transmission hoses
100% coolant hoses
100% vacuum hoses
fuel filter under the intake
water pump
radiator cap
oil sensor seal on side of block
coolant bypass O-rings and short pipe section
and a whole bunch more of other stuff I hadn't thought of yet.

good list. but, don't forget the upper dingle arm and knuter valve muffler bearings are discretionary.

 

[BillyGoatMTB]

Walls look great.

It’s up to you in the chain, I would do the guides and tensioner though.

This is great advice and I followed my gut I sure am glad I did.

From above even with an endoscope I couldn't see that the guide was separated it cracked all over the place.

Thanks for the nudge it's much appreciated