Cyclonic Air Cleaners for 100 Series?

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Cyclonic Air Cleaners for 100 Series?

The 80 Series trucks came with cyclonic air cleaners, great stuff, but apparently Toyota felt us American’s didn’t really need them when they spec’d out the 100 series for the states. Not the biggest deal I’ll admit, but I always thought it would be nice to have. So I am reading through an older post from siglo about the modifications he has made to his Kuwaiti 100 series (looks good, by the way) and see an under the hood shot. I’ll be damn if it doesn’t look like his 100 has a cyclonic style air cleaner (plastic instead of the 80’s metal one). And it looks like it could be fitted to a NA spec truck to me without too much hassle. Anyone else have any thoughts?

Here is the USA Spec engine bay….



And His Kuwaiti spec engine bay…

 

hoser

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Might be a cool mod for LX owners... It gives us a better place for a 2nd battery. Just as long as the air filters are readily available. I doubt it would be cheap though. Perhaps money would be better spent on a snorkel?
 

Landpimp

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looks like a F motor air filter might fit.

I see no need for this though.......but its cool and I'd do it :D

hoser said:
Might be a cool mod for LX owners... It gives us a better place for a 2nd battery. Just as long as the air filters are readily available. I doubt it would be cheap though. Perhaps money would be better spent on a snorkel?
 
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Thoughts..? Sounds like a great idea... Someone on the list can probably source it for you. The steel can from a 95 - 97 could work, but I'm inclined to say the tube which conects to the air flow meter is smaller.

The filtering is improved through extending the clean/change interval. There is a good chance it takes the same old 1F/3FE/1FZ-FE filter. Other benefits also exist.
 
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Looks like the air cleaner box off a 100TD. The 100TD also has both batteries in exactly the same spot. So where do you put the power steering fluid resevoir if the cylindrical air box is there? (I can't tell from the photo). The TD's have it on the opposite side of the engine, close to the block about 6" to the left of the fuse box (where the dual battery switch is), and the TD's resevoirs are metal (maybe due to the heat?) The JDM V8 100's have the same rectangular US-spec airbox.
 
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He Relocated it...

Jim_Chow said:
So where do you put the power steering fluid resevoir if the cylindrical air box is there? (I can't tell from the photo).
He Relocated it forward next to the new battery and the radiator. Apparently it was in the area of the new battery on his truck. Might need more involvment to move the resevoir on the NA spec truck though (Extended lines). You can see it in these photos...



 
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The airbox looks like the one from the TD, but pipes running from it to the engine are different. The filter on a TD is really big, but not big enough when driving in the dunes - a snorkel is a good investment - better then a new airbox.

Regards

Samo
 
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Can someone post a link with information on how a cyclonic air filter works. I don't understand the theory involved having only ever dealt with the standard US paper types. Even in ever dusty New Mexico I have never see a clogged filter and often have to resist changing ones that look dingy but are probably in the prime of thier filtering lives. Without a vacuum gauge I think it is very hard to judge when a filter actually needs replaced.
 
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Do a quick search on google, the turbo diesel cyclonic has a vacuum operated differential pressure switch which brings up a light on the dash when it is dirty.
 
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All my google searches came back with were cheap vacuums and snake-oil "gas saving" devices. :frown:

Add this baby on top of your Snorkle and I think it would solve your problems.


Donaldson Top-spin Precleaner

From Donaldson - Over-servicing is a leading cause of intake contamination.

From Baldwin -
It´s impossible to determine, just by looking, when air filters should be changed. An element that looks relatively clean may be almost totally plugged with ultra-fine particles from exhaust smoke or air pollutants.

On the other hand, a filter that looks dirty may still have many hours of useful life. Remember that until maximum acceptable restriction is reached, the accumulation of dirt in the filter actually adds to its efficiency.

Baldwin recommends use of restriction gauges as an integral part of your filter maintenance program. Now standard on many different types of equipment, these gauges measure the amount of vacuum created when air is pulled through the filter, measuring the buildup of dirt from a new filter´s installation throughout its useful life. (Check the manufacturer´s recommendations for each engine.) If you´re not currently using restriction gauges, you really should reconsider. A typical gauge costs less than a new filter element (probably not the case with the 100).​
 
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Without searching, and as far as I know, and I have seen many examples in the mining industry, you spin the "fluid" in a cone/vortex and heavy particles go one way and lighter particles go the other. This fluid can be air or liquid. This is the case with dust e tractors, sluury pumps for tailings or thickners, the heavies go out the bottom of the cyclone and the lighter product (air or water) comes ot the top. Dyson vacuum cleaners uses this technology to spin out the dust as well as long time air filtration specialists like Donaldson.
 

hoser

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As for Pre-cleaners that you fit to the top of your snorkel:

This is taken from Scott's Expeditions West website:

"Note on fitting a cyclone (donaldson type) filter: It is typical for a raised air intake used on stationary equipment and slow moving implements to be fitted with a cyclone type pre cleaner. These units are very effective when stationary or at slow speeds (below 40kph), but are useless at higher velocities as the suction created at the higher travel rates disturbs the cyclone effect. the units also must be quite large to allow sufficient airflow to the engine and cannot be used at highway speeds (80 kph and higher) without damage or loss. The pre cleaner has little use in real world trekking where high road speeds are often encountered."

Full text here: http://www.expeditionswest.com/equipment/tacoma/snorkel.html
 
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100TD - that is about all I found too. I was trying to understand how the "Cyclone" unit and airfilter are integrated in one unit.

Good link hoser. I thought I had read everything available on the Expeditions West site but obviously not.
 
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The airbox of a 1HD-FTE endine (found in HDJ100) has nothing in common with the cyclonic pre-filter, except for its round shape. The air filter insert is round and can be safely opened even in wind without risking getting dirt on the clean side.
But I think that some models from a 70-series have a combination of both filters mentioned above. There are even some solutions for mounting under the hood, but I didn't find any that would fit a LC100. In fact - snorkel is the best choice. Why filter out the dust? It's better to suck air where it's cleaner.
In spring we were driving in a sand storm. I didn't have a snorkel and no pre-cleaner and I gathered quite some sand in the airbox. The other car was a 95-series LC with a snorkel and it just had a little sand in the airbox. The third car was a Patrol with a snorkel and a pre-cleaner on top - and the result was the best. The fact is - when there's a lot of sand in the air visibility is also reduced and driving at high speeds is impossible.

Regards

Samo
 
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hoser said:
As for Pre-cleaners that you fit to the top of your snorkel:

This is taken from Scott's Expeditions West website:

"Note on fitting a cyclone (donaldson type) filter: It is typical for a raised air intake used on stationary equipment and slow moving implements to be fitted with a cyclone type pre cleaner. These units are very effective when stationary or at slow speeds (below 40kph), but are useless at higher velocities as the suction created at the higher travel rates disturbs the cyclone effect. the units also must be quite large to allow sufficient airflow to the engine and cannot be used at highway speeds (80 kph and higher) without damage or loss. The pre cleaner has little use in real world trekking where high road speeds are often encountered."

Full text here: http://www.expeditionswest.com/equipment/tacoma/snorkel.html
How about the factory cone-shaped pre-cleaners used on the international spec LC 78's? You'd think Toyota has done the testing to ensure you can drive at highway speeds (at least w/ the 1FZ or 1HZ).
 
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Jim_Chow said:
How about the factory cone-shaped pre-cleaners used on the international spec LC 78's? You'd think Toyota has done the testing to ensure you can drive at highway speeds (at least w/ the 1FZ or 1HZ).
+
hoser quoting ExpeditionsWest said:
These units are very effective when stationary or at slow speeds (below 40kph),
I think 40mph is the highway speed for the 1FZ. :D
 

hoser

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Does anybody have the part numbers for the Cyclonic Airbox, S shaped intake tube, the P/S reservoir bracket and whatever else is needed?

I'm trying to find a spot to put a large 2nd battery in the LX. An alternative is to mount it aft of the airbox and relocate the P/S reservoir. I'm a little hesitant to mount it there because it is close to the exhaust manifold. I could make a heat shield. I am looking to mount a Group 34 battery approximately 10.8"x7"x8"Tall
 

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