CV Reboot or replace? Parts ordering advice. (1 Viewer)

[Jczajka]

@katit which bushings are you referring to?

 

[katit]

@katit which bushings are you referring to?

Diff support bushings. Ones you bought preassembled

 

[Jczajka]

@katit 5238060030 & 5238060040. Just unbolting and bolting new ones in. Did buy all stops, mounts, nuts, bolts, etc. Whatever I couldn't get from Partsouq I got from Partznet.com and picked up. I think I forgot a couple things, so I'll buy locally from Partznet.

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partsouq.com

 

[Jczajka]

Started working on my truck yesterday. Found some nice things from my "always serviced at Lexus and Toyota" truck.

The passenger side had a massive amount of brown grease squeezing out of everything. 3 of the lug nuts were finger tight and the other 2 took very little effort to remove. The studs were all greasy, which I hope was from the mess and not from someone greasing the studs. The knuckle looks like it came from a junkyard based on the yellow paint pen marks. Axle nuts both have dents all around them from someone using a chisel instead of the 54mm socket to adjust them, so I assume preload was never proper. Bearings all looked pretty good, so I wasted time and money buying new ones... didnt want to risk it.

Spent a few hours removing ball joints and bushings from the UCA. The LCA got the best of me. I used every trick in the book and the lower ball joint in still stuck. Time to buy a press.

Got the flange off and was a tiny bit of gasket behind it and was missing a cone washer. The flange and the hub had the scars from being mashed with a BFH a few times.

They didn't bend any of the lock tabs over, because why do it the right when you could do it completely wrong.

The hub was marred around the edges and took some filing to flatten. You can see some of the deformation in the pictures above and after being filed below.

The flange has a good sized chip between the studs. Looks like a hammer or punch blow when someone was trying to remove the flange. Wondering if this will cause grease to leak out and cause issue? I have a new gasket, but it is not enough to seal over that chip. Should I add a squirt of FIPG to the chip before the gasket goes on?

Is that chip bad enough to warrant replacing the hub? I sure hope not.

 

[boca1]

Wow, what a mess, I hate to see this kind of work. This is my biggest fear, paying $125+ per hour for s***ty service. Wish I had the skills to to this job, my truck came with "new" (probably aftermarket) cv's but I still have a clunk from R to D, maybe I just need a new hub flange

 

[JunkCrzr89]

@Jczajka What a fn mess! Not sure what to tell you about that chip on the hub face. Looks substantial enough to allow water inside to the wheel bearings, even with a new flange gasket. Cheap fix may be to add some gasket maker (FIPG) to fill in the chip before you place the paper gasket on, though the efficacy of that may be ephemeral. More permanent fix may be to weld in a bit of metal to fill in the chip and then grind it down so it’s flat with the rest of the hub face. Alternatively, I’m sure you could find a good replacement at a junkyard (car-part.com).

 

[cmassa]

I think with some gasket maker you'll be fine. Your pics don't seem to indicate any water in the hub/grease when you took it apart. I'm not convinced that the cap is completely water tight anyway since it has no gasket at all. The gasket under the flange may be more to keep the grease from getting flung out when driving.

 

[Jczajka]

I love finding stuff like this after everything is apart and I planned on finishing it up tomorrow.

Anyone have a nice hub (43503-69035) kicking around that they want to sell and overnight to me?

Such a pain. Finding someone to weld it for me would add even more time. New hub simpler. Found a couple Junkyard leads already, I'll call them tomorrow.

 

[Jczajka]

@Jczajka What a fn mess! Not sure what to tell you about that chip on the hub face. Looks substantial enough to allow water inside to the wheel bearings, even with a new flange gasket. Cheap fix may be to add some gasket maker (FIPG) to fill in the chip before you place the paper gasket on, though the efficacy of that may be ephemeral. More permanent fix may be to weld in a bit of metal to fill in the chip and then grind it down so it’s flat with the rest of the hub face. Alternatively, I’m sure you could find a good replacement at a junkyard (car-part.com).

My clunk was from some wear on CV and flange splines and from preload being set incorrectly.

I also have a good diff clunk too. New bushings and related parts going in next.