CV Reboot or replace? Parts ordering advice. (1 Viewer)

[Jczajka]

I'm gathering parts to rebuild all the worn out bushing and regular front end maintenance on my truck. All consumable, non-replacable parts will be ordered, but before I order parts or tear apart the front end and find out I should have ordered more parts, I wanted to see what needs replacing.

I'm fine ordering extra parts that may be questionable and are inexpensive and just replace them, but would love not have to buy all new CVs and a bunch of parts that will last until the next service.

I have a clunk and can turn the CVs a little bit by hand. I pulled the caps off and checked the gap and there is play and I need a 2.8mm snap ring. I pushed the CV's in with the snap ring off to check the hub flange. The groves on the threads look sharp and not worn out. Grease was brown rust colored, but otherwise clean.

Is there a way to check the CV axle end without pulling everything apart? Same with bearings, bushings, etc.

CVs leaking since before I bought the truck. The inner boots appear to have leaked from a loose clamp on both sides. Some grease flung around, but no splits or tears in the boots. A little dry rot, but they are intact. Should I get a full kit and rebuild the CVs or just replace them whole based on age and grease loss? Rather spend $80 a piece on a boot kit vs $350 for axles, but not sure if they will be worn out with the grease leaking like that. Would not be mad if you all told me to just replace the CVs, because then I wouldnt have to deal with the mess of cleaning repacking them.

Seals on the back of the knuckle have some rust and factory grease, so they look like they have been there a while.

Any feedback is great.


My LX is at 147K and last front end service was 2012 and 115k miles. Bearings were repacked and adjusted, rotors were turned and new pads were installed according to Lexus website. So I'm fine being catious and ordering seals, bushings

Some pics here: CVs and axle flange

 

[nissanh]

I bought new aftermarket cvs and oem flanges. Still I find a play at the splines at the flange. Best is to buy oem cv axles. I now have to spend again for another set of cv axles. You will also see some backlash inside the diff and some wear at the teeth and splines in spider wheels sp it is not possible to eliminate the play 100% without a new front diff.

 

[Jczajka]

@nissanh I will either clean and rebuild with Toyota boot kit, or replace with complete Toyota CVs.

Consensus seems to be that clamps loosen up overtime or were never tight enough and some grease is lost. My hub flanges look pretty crisp; splines look good, with no extra grooves worn in from too much play. My snap rings fit loose and show a little wear, but not deep gouges like I have seen.

I'm inclined to just reboot CVs and replace all seals and other non-reusable parts when I rebuild.

My thought was just replace everything with fresh parts while I'm in there, so I don't regret it down the road. No history of any of these parts being replaced in the past.

 

[nissanh]

Use oem axle seals.

 

[Jczajka]

Use oem axle seals.

Yeah that too. Toyota everything.

 

[BamaCruzer]

If you plan to keep the 100 more than a few years, replace the cv axles with OEM. Otherwise, I would still replace the CV axles, but go with a reputable brand aftermarket with a warranty.

 

[Jczajka]

If you plan to keep the 100 more than a few years, replace the cv axles with OEM. Otherwise, I would still replace the CV axles, but go with a reputable brand aftermarket with a warranty.

That's how I'm leaning.

With full timing belt done and ahc globes already replaced, this is all I have left to baseline. Figure get it all done in one shot.

 

[BamaCruzer]

Before I left for Baja last summer, I had a LOT of work done on my 100 which now has 400,000 miles on it. While everything else was OEM, I did choose to save some money and went with a brand from O’Reilly auto parts for my CV axles and they have a lifetime warranty. While that will not include any future labor done by a shop, it’s a better warranty than the OEM axles, for what that’s worth.

 

[BamaCruzer]

That's how I'm leaning.

With full timing belt done and ahc globes already replaced, this is all I have left to baseline. Figure get it all done in one shot.

 

[abuck99]

The flange pictured is noticeably worn- so you might replace those, including all flange hardware: flange nuts, washers, snap ring, lock &adjusting nuts, new lock washer, and claw washer. Would be a good time to clean and repack wheel bearings, and lube spindle bearings.

Reboot can buy you some time but if they’re clicking or making noise, reboot wont help that. Aftermarket CVs are hit & miss with fit and smooth operation, (especially at full extension) so for street use non-lifted rig maybe you can get away with these but, OEM Toyota really should be the only consideration if you wheel your truck. Budget about $375 ea with shipping.

I have a detailed parts list on my laptop- I’ll post up later if needed.

 

[Jczajka]

Thanks @abuck99

I already have a cart with all the parts you mentioned in it. Been assembling a cart and even made a spreadsheet with notes so all the random nuts and bolts have an exact description of where they go. Save me the headache if looking it all up again. Conicelli Toyota, which is 20 mins from my house, has new CVs for $362. The have great pricing and get me most parts in a day.

I would only use OE parts here, with the exception of 555 ball joints. Not considering anything other than Toyota for this stuff.

Bearings are the only thing I'm not sure about. Have to tear it all apart to assess them. I have seen bearings on here that are cooked upon inspection. Front bearing kits from @cruiseroutfit are a solid deal. Rather have fresh ones and not need them, then find out my bearings are gouged up.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

I’m in a similar boat as you, with 214k on the odo. My CVs were not clicking or making any noise (that I’m aware of), but both inner boots were leaking pretty bad. I pulled them apart to inspect before making a decision about whether to reboot or replace. The balls, races, and cages were visibly in good shape with no evidence of overheating or scoring, so I just cleaned everything and rebooted with OEM boot kits. As others have noted, the OEM axles are notably stronger than most aftermarket units, and you definitely won’t run into any fitment issues with the OEM axles. I guess my point here is that if you can afford to have your rig parked for a day or so, I think it’s worth tearing down your axles and inspecting them before you make a decision. Perhaps just go ahead and buy the reboot kits so you have them, and if you think the axles need replaced, you can always return the kits.

 

[Jczajka]

@JunkCrzr89 That's my dilemma. I was hoping someone here would say "oh yeah, those splines are trashed, just buy new CVs" and I would get new axles from the dealer. I've also thought about buying both and returning what I dont need. Just dont want to go through the mess and time to clean/reboot if not needed.

If I had enough time I would inspect everything, but I really only have a long weekend to get it all done.

 

[Beauski100]

I bought a CHEAP cv from autozone, like $70 shipped.... it was pretty easy to install BUT I do hear a little rattle when I turn, it might be coming from inside the diff ?or from the old drive flange I should have replaced? lastly, it could just be poor work by the noob who installed it...

 

[JunkCrzr89]

@Jczajka The splines don’t look to bad, in my opinion. Of course, you don’t get a full picture of their condition until they’re out of the truck, but if your joints aren’t making noise, I would just reboot them. Sounds like you’re in a time crunch, so if money isn’t a big issue, replacing with new OEM axles would be much easier. You could then rebuild your old ones when you have time to keep as spares or sell to another MUD member. FWIW, it took me only a couple of hours to tear down, clean, and reboot both axles.

 

[Jczajka]

I cleaned the flange and CV as well as I could in situ and they didn't look bad to me. Not the way I've seen images of worn splines and flanges @2001LC has posted in the past.

I know I'll ending working from Friday night until Sunday night, so I want to have all my ducks in a row so I'm not running out to grab parts or tools all weekend.

 

[Jczajka]

Ordered new full CV's from my Toyota dealer.

I wasn't certain the splines were in good shape and I didn't want to spend a ton of time rebuilding them. Replacing most wear items in the front end, so trying to save as much time as possible and ensure everything is perfect.

 

[2001LC]

Good call on the front drive shafts (CV's)

I can say without a doubt your hub flange pictured is toast. Their not far from failing. Anytime I see them this bad, the axle/splines are also bad. With need for 2.8mm snap ring, the gap in axle end it fits into, is likely enlarged.

I'd replace front drive shafts, hub flanges and cone washers at minimum.

Wheel bearings are rarely bad. But if concerned you'd get held-up a few days for shipping, buy a set now.

 

[Jczajka]

Thanks for the advice @2001LC , same conclusion I came to. The play in the shafts and the large gap and wear on the splines looked bad to me. Parts on the way.

 

[suprarx7nut]

@Jczajka I'm with @2001LC . I bet your axles and hub are trashed. If you have clearance on that snap ring, the hub and axle will just sit there are saw away at each other. Both will be damaged.

I was unsure if my axles were bad (after pulling them the splines look great still), but the labor alone involved with the reboot is significant compared to the very simple axle replacement. I'm not sure what the dollar value is on an our of my garage time, but I don't get much of it and spending hours fooling around with a greasy reboot sounded miserable. Not to mention, then you know it's all new OEM and it'll last another 20 years. A guy at HIH spent a good part of a day stuck on Poughkeepsie after having front axle(s) fail, presumably at the splines at the hub or diff. That failure point can be a real bummer on a trail.

If you're going to keep the rig, go for broke and get new axles, washers, nuts, hubs, etc... Spend the time saved on not rebooting with your family, diving into the next project or find a trail nearby and get the new axles dirty.

Good luck!