Cut and turn...something to hold! (1 Viewer)

[chicago]

Last time I did an SOA, I had access to a pipe stand, but now...NONE.
Anyone have any ideas they had come up with to hold the housing secure to pop the ball ends free for verification that I have hit the correct depth?

Was thinking of fabbing something to hold the housing that I could bolt to my bench, but its not the sturdiest.

Same with my vice that is on the bench...not the most secure vice you'd ever use.

 

[viking cruiser]

I turned mine after bolting it back to the spring so I could make sure of the right angle it was easy.

 

[CruisinFJ60]

I rotated mine to where I wanted it to point then burned in the perches then bolted the housing to the springs with the weight of the truck on them and turned the knuckles.

easy as pie.

 

[chicago]

Im looking more immediate...
I just wanna make absolutely sure that the ends are "free" to move as opposed to bolting it up, finding that I didint cut deep enough, take it off if needed etc. That was my mistake the last SOA I did...I DID NOT turn the ball ends bolted on the rig. A mistake I WONT make again.

Not a big deal...I can do it that way, but I have some time before I get that far in the process and Im getting the housing prepped out. Just trying to save a step later.

 

[Eskimo]

I welded a piece of square tubing to the housing and clamped that in the vice. get a bigger vise! (and I had 2 fat guys sit on the bench to keep it from flipping)

 

[CruisinGA]

weld a long pipe/ tube/angle to the axle, sit it on the ground, and have someone stand on one end of the pipe/tube/angle.

 

[Z()LTAN]

leave it bolted in, and just cut it on the rig. Thats what ive always done...

u need only cut like 6-7mm deep not that hard lol

 

[boots4]

I started my cuts on the bench where it was easier to get to but didn't turn the knuckles until it was bolted up to the rig. If they didn't turn it was just a little depth adjusting around the hole to get them free. By that time my pinion angle had been determined and the spring perches were at least tacked on.

 

[peesalot]

Just curious, are you using a pipe cutter to cut the housing ?

 

[mountain cruiser]

If there is gear oil or grease residue in the ends, when you cut the bottom first oil will seep out of your cut when you hit the right depth, then you can use that depth to gauge the rest of your cut. Thats how I did it with no one holding it, use a flashlight to see in your cut. Did it with a cut off wheel and no one holding the housing, cause my air cut off isn't powerful enough to move the housing.

 

[rusty_tlc]

Last time I did an SOA, I had access to a pipe stand, but now...NONE.
Anyone have any ideas they had come up with to hold the housing secure to pop the ball ends free for verification that I have hit the correct depth?

Was thinking of fabbing something to hold the housing that I could bolt to my bench, but its not the sturdiest.

Same with my vice that is on the bench...not the most secure vice you'd ever use.

I have a big chain vise I ditched the stand because it was kind of a half ass home welded thing. Your welcome to use it.

 

[CruisinFJ60]

leave it bolted in, and just cut it on the rig. Thats what ive always done...

u need only cut like 6-7mm deep not that hard lol

thats what i did too.

a flashlight and you can easily see the proper depth, I know you did it before on the 62 but as i remember it was about 1/4 inch depth was perfect.

 

[dr_dobro]

If you are using a pipe cutter, then you will have control on the cut depth !. I had a piece of tubing going trough the knuckle to test when the hub was completelly free ! The pipe cutter leaves such a nice V groove, that makes it very simple to monitor when cutting !
I'll say the only way to achieve a good cut is to grind to a smooth round surface the original knuckle weld. Or find a friend with a large lathe !
I have done 7 SOA and I've only ruinned one knuckle side where the cut went trough the knuckle a little too far ! I guess it happens sometimes even on a lathe !

 

[chicago]

Well at this point, I had only cut down one side with my trusty angle grinder and cut off wheel. This is what I had found works the best over the pipe cutter which I had used in the past and it SUCKED IMO. Couldnt get the thing to track straight even after grinding the housing down smooth. I measured 3/8", in from the end of the housing and made a line around the housing with a sharpee. I then got a new cut off wheel and marked 1/4 in, in from the outer edge in to be able to SEE where the approx. 1/4 in depth was. I used a paint marker for this. While grinding around the housing I keep watching my "depth gauge" on the cut off wheel and as Im getting close to the 1/4 in mark, Im stopping and looking into the cut to see if I can visualize the line between the housing and the ball end.
Im pretty sure Im there. I can see the line most of the way around, some spots may need a little more grinding. I used my grinding wheel to open the groove up and get a better view with a flash light.
As mentioned above...the 1/4 in depth is just about perfect. I had checked it with a good ruler.
Now welding some steel to the housing is a nice easy idea!
Rusty...I may actually check that vice out that you have.
Like I said, I just wanna make sure it free, but its also NOT a big deal to wait. Just less time later. Im heading home to chicago later this week, so I cant do any meaningful work right now on the 40. This is more or less down time stuff.

Thanks for all the input gents!

 

[chicago]

I welded a piece of square tubing to the housing and clamped that in the vice. get a bigger vise! (and I had 2 fat guys sit on the bench to keep it from flipping)

That is the FIRST thing Im gonna do is get my vice secured better.
Ive been meaning to do it, but....well...its just more fun to work on the cruiser!

 

[dr_dobro]

Would it help if you can use a 3 wheel pipe cutter?, I'm assuming 3 wheels vs 2 will give you a more even cut. Hope this doesn't drive you crazy!

 

[chicago]

Would it help if you can use a 3 wheel pipe cutter?, I'm assuming 3 wheels vs 2 will give you a more even cut. Hope this doesn't drive you crazy!

That is what I had...hated it!
I used to be a pipe fitter in a past life, so its not as if I was without experience with them.
Donno...the grinder method is what works best for me.

To each their own I guess.

 

[Sputnik40]

I just left mine sitting on oversized jack stands - and used shock impact (i.e. a BFH) with a 4 foot long section of thick walled tubing to push out one knuckle (added an extension), then leaving the races in - did the same when turning the knuckle. Weight of the axle was enough to keep it from moving too far away - and while it would obviously be easier bolted on the truck or in a nice big vice - it was just faster to work with it as it was....

 

['74 UA FJ]

A couple of stands with angle iron on top tacked to a work table works great and gets the axle at a good height to work on. I've always used a grinder and cutoff wheel for the cut and you can see the line most of the way around when you get to the right depth.

 

[mountain cruiser]

Also, just another 2 cents, I used a 4-1/2" angle grinder with the thick hard wheel to open up the initial cuts to provide a better area for proper weld penetration once the balls were turned how I wanted them.