Custom Cargo Hooks

Would you purchase a Custom Rear Cargo Hook?

  • I'll take Aluminum!

    Votes: 2 9.5%

  • I'll take Stainless Steel!

    Votes: 8 38.1%

  • Yes, but I don't like the design

    Votes: 6 28.6%

  • You can take this cargo hook and shove it up your !@$

    Votes: 5 23.8%
  • Total voters
    21

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rockclmbr

rockclmbr

Joined
Oct 1, 2004
Threads
40
Messages
627
Location
Bay Area
I designed a cargo hook to mount to the available hole after the rear seat belts are removed. For those with an 80 or 100 series with drawers, most have removed the seatbelts. There is a threaded hole left behind on the interior of both D pillars. This hook will screw to the threaded hole using a supplied bolt and can be used to attach bungee cords, caribeaners, rope, etc.

Please see attached images for approximate mounting location and concept model of the Rear Cargo Hook.

At first I was just going to fab up one set for myself, but thought I'd get a read on the interest here. I don't have any machined yet, but will be sending a drawing out for quote. The more interested, the cheaper they will be. They will be machined from either Aluminum 6061 or Stainless Steel 303/304. I will also have the option of anodizing the aluminum ones if interested.

Thanks!
cargo hook installed.jpg
cargo hooks iso1.jpg
 
Last edited:
I'd be interested (depending on price, of course), for the SS price.
 
seems like it sticks out quite a bit. what about some sort of a d ring or something that wouldn't stick out so much. not that i have an 80, so won't do me any good
 
I thought about a low profile desing, especially one that folded flat. Of course this would add to the cost. I wanted something extremely cheap but got the job done.
 
nuclearlemon said:
not that i have an 80
Click to expand...



Ige, we know you want one, just come clean and get it over....:flipoff2:
 
Jasper-It looks good and I like the computer model drawings that you did. If you want some feedback, here's mine:

They stick out too far-I would worry about donking my head or catching something on it.

The corners on the part that sticks out should be rounded.

Bring the loop part up at a 45 degree angle, not 90 degrees-that will lower the profile.

Nickel finish stainless would get my vote, but how about parkerized carbon steel so it matches your gubs?

What are you going to tie down, that sticks up that far?

How about designing some nice tie downs for my FJ60?:D
 
Good idea, you just need to make sure it is the right size to double as a beer bottle cap opener :D
 
cruiserdan said:
Ige, we know you want one, just come clean and get it over....:flipoff2:
Click to expand...
yep...i want one under my 55 body. keep mistaking them for fords, but they do wheel like crazy.
 
"They stick out too far-I would worry about donking my head or catching something on it."

I can make them any size you want, the current design is 1" deep. Ideally this is driven by what you want to attach to it. For bungee cords, it only needs about 1/4" meat for strength.

"What are you going to tie down, that sticks up that far?"

You never know what (or who ;) ) you may need to tie down back there. I like to have as many options as possible.
 
Tie downs for the 60 series???

If only I had a 60 at my disposal! Does a 60 have rear seat belt attachment points or other available threaded hole?
 
On my 60, I installed some rope guides on my D pillars. I got the guides at my local marine supply. I installed them using jack nuts. When I could get behind them, I backed up the jack nut with a washer to help distribute the load. I removed the trim, installed the jack nut into the sheet metal, then replaced the trim and drilled small holes in the trim for the screw. As far as I know there were not seat belts for a forward facing third row seat.
rope guides.JPG
jack nut.gif
 
Doh!:doh:

Good idea lowenbrau! Now we are thinking. These are actually called "Bolt Hangers". I was hoping this would spark interest. I'm sure there are many off the shelf parts for this application. Since I have a machine shop at my disposal, I was going to make a fancier looking one. But for the cost conscious check this link out:

http://store.everestgear.com/403000.html

"Fits up to 1/2" Rawl bolts 4mm stock Stainless Steel: 30kN/7500lbs Plated Steel: 22kN/5000lbs"
 
how about a ring that can swivel on 2 axis

Something with the mechanics of this but looks nothing like this

DK15SwivelDRing.JPG



instead of a plate, have a sholdered bolt/stud that goes in the hole, have a collar that freely rotates on the stud and a ring that freely rotates on the collar, this way the ring is always pulling right from the bolt point, no induced leverage and no bind or funny angles for the rope bungee etc, The ring would hang don out of the way when not in use

Build it for a 2k pound or better static load, I am sure that is well above that the D-pillar can handle? What is a seatbelt built to? Tying something heavy in the back could generate loads that high or more in a coalition. Might as well have the ty down point as strong as the sheet metal pillar it attaches to.

And definably stainless or parkerized steel, aluminum is to weak for tasks like this without getting very large..

build or source something like that at a decent price and I would want one.
 
I still use the third row seats but I gotta believe that mcmaster has something already made that would fill the need. Not to take anything away from your effort...but might be an option.....:cheers:
 
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