Custom Body mounts (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Mar 31, 2003
Threads
25
Messages
182
Location
Chattavegas, TN
Of course by "custom" I mean home made.
$100+ seems like a lot of cash for some polyurethane and zinc plated bolts. How many out there made their own mounts and what did you use. I wouldn't mind adding 1/2" or so while I'm there.
Thanks,
Brog
 
that price seems about right.
my friends 40 has a 1 inch body lift (previous owner) made from 1" square tubing as the spacers
 
Meduse,
I took a look at your site and I'm jealous of you shop.
We expect great things from ya with a setup like that.
Anyhow, where did you find that poly rod?
This is what I had in mind, any thoughts?
Thanks,
Brog

body_mount.jpg
 
bump
 
[quote author=Medusa link=board=1;threadid=4175;start=0#msg31722 date=1060710604]
Sorry for the slow response. I got my poly rods from MSC. http://www.mscdirect.com
[/quote]
Thanks,
Brog
 
[quote author=Medusa link=board=1;threadid=4175;start=0#msg31034 date=1060354541]
I use 80 durometer polyurethane rod. More expensive than boat trailer rollers, but also much softer.
[/quote]

Where do I get this stuff?
 
[quote author=Medusa link=board=1;threadid=4175;start=0#msg31722 date=1060710604]
Sorry for the slow response. I got my poly rods from MSC. http://www.mscdirect.com
[/quote]

guess I should have read the entire thread! ;)
 
Medusa,

Do you have a particular part number you used? I went to MSC's website, quite a few to chose from.

Are you worried about a softer durometer of poly breaking down sooner than a harder one?

I'm doing a resto on a my 77 FJ now and I may have to put in a slight body lift, although I don't want to. I've got a new Gozzard composite tub, and the way it's layed out underneath I may need to be about an 1 to 1 1/2 in off the frame. Also some of the body mounts may need to be cut to custom lengths.

Latest pics of my current project.

http://ccor.topcities.com/mattpicpage3.htm

Thanks, Matt
 
Someone here on the forum had mentioned hockey pucks a while back. Said that they had been in service for a couple of years with no problems.

Just something to think about...
 
My '71 FJ40 had Hockey pucks in it for 15 years before I had the body redone and the fabricator built the body 2" taller for me.
 
[quote author=buckroseau link=board=1;threadid=4175;start=msg32406#msg32406 date=1060966852]
Medusa,

Do you have a particular part number you used? I went to MSC's website, quite a few to chose from.

Are you worried about a softer durometer of poly breaking down sooner than a harder one?

[/quote]


I'm gonna use the 1.5" cylinder and drill/mill a 3/8" hole for 3/8" SS hardware.
Part number 8695K353.
Nah, 80A is pretty resilient stuff. It should last 30-40 years at least.
Brog
 
Brog,

Just curious, why are you using 80A(soft)? I was thinking of going with at least the 90A(medium)? I was thinking that 80A might be a bit to spongy, but maybe my thought process is a little off (wouldn't be the first time). What length are you considering cutting the rod? I would think the taller you go, the firmer you would want it?

3/8" Stainless sounds perfect, are you going to use a 1 1/2" S.S. fender washer on each side of the mount or just let the poly buck against the tub and frame directly?

Do you know what the distance between the frame and body is stock? I was assuming 1"? My old ones were a lot less than that, but they might have been flatened out over 30 years?

Matt
 
Matt,
The old mount that I kept (luckily) only measures about 0.4" which I think is pretty close to original. I'm gonna cut it about 0.75" tall and 0.25" for the top. Anything above that and I would definitely use 90A. I may add some washers there just for added wear protection but it's probably not necessary.
Brog
 
The 80 durometer 2" diameter rod that I have used is MSC part number 31997570 . If you want to use a harder material, then the 90 durometer is 31998735. I use the softer on my FJ45 because the cab is so light. If you are doing a pig or FJ60/62 then the 90 would work better
 
I took some photo's at lunch, hopefully I'm uploading these correctly. I'm going to reply 4 times to get a photo on each one since I'm over the kb size with all 4.

I haven't mentioned this yet because I was still trying to figure it out myself. I got a new Gozzard fiberglass tub about a month ago. I won't have time until late this fall to tear into it but I've been studying and thinking about body mounts and I've had some questions?? ???

I thought the stock body mounts lifted the tub off the frame about a 1/2", which I think is correct. In one of my photo's (hopefully the one attached to this post) you can see where the rocker panel hits the frame and there is still a good 1" gap (probably 1 1/4") between where the tub has to mount and the frame. In your graphic pic of your mount (thank you very much) I forgot about the metal strap stand-off attached to the tub that kicks it out probably another good 1/2" to an 1". My tub was SOOOO rotten that most of that stuff was gone or destroyed when it was cut with the torch.

My next question is, what is the distance between the frame and the bottom of the tub, not to the strap or the thickness of the lower part of the mount (which we already know is approx. 1/2")?

With this fiberglass tub there are some irregularities, so I imagine I will have to get some what creative. I do NOT want to lift the body, I would prefer to keep it the stock height. Unlike a stock body I don't believe I'm going to have a top and bottom to my mount, or a 2 piece mount so to speak. Just one mount from the frame directly to the tub, with a bolt going through the top of tub to the frame.

I included a few photo's... Any suggestions if you think I'm missing something, or I'm I on the right track?

Thanks, Matt
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom