2nd pic, left side, below rear wheel well
Custom Body mounts (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Brog
- Start date
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3rd pic, left side shot, below rear wheel well looking to the rear of the frame and tub. No mounts so the tub is sitting directly on the frame now.
4th pic, rear top shot.
buck -- that fiberglass tub looks like crap 
and the frame -- rusty as he!! 
i only get this way when i am jellous : -- thanx for making my cruiser look a rust heep
i wanna see pics when she is done!! 8)
and the frame -- rusty as he!! i only get this way when i am jellous :
-- thanx for making my cruiser look a rust heepi wanna see pics when she is done!! 8)
- Thread starter
- #25
I'd definitely put your doors and top on before you shug/ shim any mounts to make sure that everything fits and closes well. Especially with an after-market tub. The poly on top allows the tub to float in between and not "bottom out" on the way back up.
Good luck,
Brog
Good luck,
Brog
If you want to see crap make sure you goto my website
http://ccor.topcities.com
click on the sidebar, "Matt's cruiser" and look through the photo pages and see what I started with, now that was crap.
Thanks though, nice to here compliments from fellow cruiser peers.
http://ccor.topcities.com
click on the sidebar, "Matt's cruiser" and look through the photo pages and see what I started with, now that was crap.
Thanks though, nice to here compliments from fellow cruiser peers.
buck -- how long to get to this point??
damn thats alot of work
damn thats alot of work
Brog,
Thanks for the explanation on why the poly is on top, I didn't even really think of it that way. Unfortunetly I won't be able to put poly "on top" because on top would be on the inside of the tub. I could put poly on top on the 4 mounts across the back lip, but that would be it?
The way I'm seeing it right now, I will only have a 1 piece style of mount, probably around 1" long (depending on location). Which hopefully, will be the same distance from the frame to the bottom of the tub, not the metal retaining straps as in your diagram (which I don't have anymore).
I agree with you somewhat on mounting the hardtop and doors prior to mounting the body to the frame. But, I think you would agree if you saw Mike Gozzard's tubs, they are extremely stout. I don't know if it would be possible to flex any part of it into position without breaking it?
Matt
Thanks for the explanation on why the poly is on top, I didn't even really think of it that way. Unfortunetly I won't be able to put poly "on top" because on top would be on the inside of the tub. I could put poly on top on the 4 mounts across the back lip, but that would be it?
The way I'm seeing it right now, I will only have a 1 piece style of mount, probably around 1" long (depending on location). Which hopefully, will be the same distance from the frame to the bottom of the tub, not the metal retaining straps as in your diagram (which I don't have anymore).
I agree with you somewhat on mounting the hardtop and doors prior to mounting the body to the frame. But, I think you would agree if you saw Mike Gozzard's tubs, they are extremely stout. I don't know if it would be possible to flex any part of it into position without breaking it?
Matt
Customcruiser,
I had been using my 77 as a snowplow rig for many years with the intention that someday when I got time I was going to restore it. This Febuary (about 6 to 7 months ago) the lower rod bearing seized. After I went through quite a bit just to get that rusted up motor out by breaking and torching everything off I decided it was time.
I started about mid Feb. 2003 and was to the point you see it in the website by mid may. A very good friend of mine, who owns an auto parts store and repair shop in town, helped me rebuild the during motor that time, I took care of everything else (blasting, painting, assembling, etc..) That saved me a ton of time, because he knew exactly what he was doing on that motor. Although I'm paying for that now in labor, I just put in a submersable well system for him last week at his house and this weekend I'm putting in an entire septic system for him in his new shop. Although I'm in the hardware business and rental business so I have the supplies and heavy equipment for that type of work. Worked out good for both of us.
You are correct, it is a lot of work. If you knew me personally as my friends do, they would tell you I'm not one to sit still.
Matt
I had been using my 77 as a snowplow rig for many years with the intention that someday when I got time I was going to restore it. This Febuary (about 6 to 7 months ago) the lower rod bearing seized. After I went through quite a bit just to get that rusted up motor out by breaking and torching everything off I decided it was time.
I started about mid Feb. 2003 and was to the point you see it in the website by mid may. A very good friend of mine, who owns an auto parts store and repair shop in town, helped me rebuild the during motor that time, I took care of everything else (blasting, painting, assembling, etc..) That saved me a ton of time, because he knew exactly what he was doing on that motor. Although I'm paying for that now in labor, I just put in a submersable well system for him last week at his house and this weekend I'm putting in an entire septic system for him in his new shop. Although I'm in the hardware business and rental business so I have the supplies and heavy equipment for that type of work. Worked out good for both of us.
You are correct, it is a lot of work. If you knew me personally as my friends do, they would tell you I'm not one to sit still.
Matt
- Thread starter
- #30
Matt,
I don't have any experience with fiberglass tubs but that does make sense.
That two piece assembly would just be mounted up-side down when you bolt through the tub first. The main (1") piece would still be supporting the tub and the secondary (1/4") piece would just controll the rebound. People install solid aluminum mounts so either way is an improvement over straight AL. I'm getting some pix together for a site that you might find interesting. I'll let ya know,
Brog
I don't have any experience with fiberglass tubs but that does make sense.
That two piece assembly would just be mounted up-side down when you bolt through the tub first. The main (1") piece would still be supporting the tub and the secondary (1/4") piece would just controll the rebound. People install solid aluminum mounts so either way is an improvement over straight AL. I'm getting some pix together for a site that you might find interesting. I'll let ya know,
Brog
Question? Do those of you who have made there own mounts, or are thinking of making there own mounts, think I need a sleeve in this body mount. I'm just thinking over time the whole might get whooped out?
I imagine a sleeve could do the same thing? I imagine by putting a sleeve in essentially your making the bolt bigger?
Just curious if anyone has done this, sleeved there body mounts, or hadn't sleeved them and had problems?
Thanks, Matt
I imagine a sleeve could do the same thing? I imagine by putting a sleeve in essentially your making the bolt bigger?
Just curious if anyone has done this, sleeved there body mounts, or hadn't sleeved them and had problems?
Thanks, Matt
another pic
Sorry to drag up such an old thread but it was the only one I could find in a search that was close to the info Im after.
Can someone confirm that the stock total body mount height (from body to frame) is 1" and as buckroseau asked above is it recommended to run crush tubes with poly blocks?
Thanks
Brendan
EDIT: If I run crush tubes should they be slightly (1/4"?) shorter than the poly block itself?
