CT 90 spare gas can holder (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Mar 23, 2003
Threads
26
Messages
549
Location
Emmett, ID
So I went down to Walmart today (on Dieseldog's '84 CT110 of course:D) and bought a one gallon gas can with the fancy spout for my CT90.

On the way home, I was thinking of what I could make a carrier out of. It needed to be something I had laying around the garage. You'll see in the pics that my garage is messy & I have alot of crap laying around, so I knew that sooner or later, I'd find something that would work. :doh:

The main reason for my trip to walmart was to pick up some motor oil since I was in the middle of the "performance" cam install and needed oil for an oil change after I drove it around the block a few times.

While I finished the cam install, the spare tank holder was still on my mind.... I happened to look down to find what was left of my old 500W halogen work lamp laying by the garbage. The wheels started turning....

With a little bending I got a pretty good working frame.

418dd7qgmzlsl500aa280uy9.jpg


PICT0007-4.jpg

PICT0006-5.jpg


PICT0005-3.jpg

PICT0004-5.jpg
 
Last edited:
I wasn't too happy with how it set on the frame. The ass end of the gas can wanted to slide toward the bike. So I went looking around again & found a piece of sheet metal that was from an old vent hood I threw out a couple years ago.

With a little bending, grinding, drilling, and some self tapping screws I got it to fit just right.

Notice, I bent a tab up on the front inside corner of the metal. That keeps the gas can from working it's way toward the bike.

PICT0009-3.jpg


PICT0010-4.jpg

PICT0011-3.jpg

PICT0012-4.jpg
 
My gut says it's going to flex into the wheel with a full can of gas and a little bouncing. If you can tie the bottom rear into the fender again you could stiffen it up enough to prevent that I think.

My gut also says the two screws holding it on isn't enough - the tube itself is going to wear out and fail there maybe. I have no solution to offer.
 
I would say two washers front and back... the one closest to the fender being larger that the nut would normally use. You could arc the one on the tube for a good fit.

My real concern was whether the nuts inside the fender would stick out too much to clear the tire on big bumps. I would turn them around and put the nuts on the outside and trim off any excess bolt with a stainless steel hacksaw blade.

My second thought was that it would be a mess if you grazed a tree on that side and the tube bent in and cleared out a few spokes for you.

Like Yoop said if there is a third place for attachment on the fender... that would be a good thing. Excellent idea and it will work fine. :clap:
 
I'm sure that you're aware that Honda already makes an auxillary gas can for the rear of the CT series. I didn't see one on the 110 but it may already have one. It's always nice, though, to have something home made on the bike so I understand what you're doing...
 
I'm sure that you're aware that Honda already makes an auxillary gas can for the rear of the CT series. I didn't see one on the 110 but it may already have one. It's always nice, though, to have something home made on the bike so I understand what you're doing...

Yep the 110 has one. I wonder if Dieseldog would notice if it was missing when he picked the bike up from me. :hmm: :lol:

I actually picked the red 110 up from Olympia last fall.

I'd rather not pay the price for the whole set up. I have just over $6.00 (the price of the gas can) and a couple of hours of labor invested in this one . :D

:cheers:
 
My gut says it's going to flex into the wheel with a full can of gas and a little bouncing. If you can tie the bottom rear into the fender again you could stiffen it up enough to prevent that I think.

My gut also says the two screws holding it on isn't enough - the tube itself is going to wear out and fail there maybe. I have no solution to offer.

.....
 
Last edited:
*edit*

I'm an idiot sometimes. I need to change the attachment points of the brace. (thanks for pointing it out Gladly:D)

I will post pics when done with the new and improved brace. :cheers:
 
Last edited:
PICT0009-3.jpg


My ideas:

- Find a piece of tube just barely bigger than the fuel can rack tube and build a plate bracket with a section of this tube on it that attaches to all of the factory holes in the fender. You can attach to section of tube to the plate bracket with conduit half round fittings or something similar. Then just slide the fuel can rack into the tube bracket from behind.

As you can imagine this still lets the entire rack rotate up and down, so you need to add a brace for this. The second brace is a better place to put this stress than the main mounting point.

- You have two choices for the second brace: The fender lower down, or the cargo rack. The cargo rack will be stronger and offers you better geometry since you can attach the outer corner of the rack to it. The attachment to the cargo rack can be via some kind of clamp that is easily opened or closed around the tube of the cargo rack, making the whole thing easily removable.

:cheers:

I just heavily edited that.
 
Last edited:
If you wanted to make it really strong and give yourself a few more options for attachment you could try to find a factory aux tank fender bracket. Look at the one on the 110 and you'll see it's pretty beefy. They are hard to find. I'd give you mine but I sent it to Jman already.
 
Version 1.3

The original design had too much flex and not wanting to drill any holes down low in the fender, I went back to the drawing board.

I had some ½" steel laying around the garage so I copied the shape of the flat spot on the rear fender as much as I could for looks. I clamped it on and with a pencil, marked the mounting holes. They are the vertical ones with the captured nuts on the inside of the fender. I drilled them out with a 1/4" drill bit, found metric bolts that were the perfect length and mounted it. I marked the horizontal holes, then took the mounting plate to my parents house to use my drill press that my dad has been borrowing for the past two years :lol:

I drilled out the horizontal holes 5/16 so I could tap them out for 3/8 bolts. I didn't want to through bolt through the fender, so I figured I'd go this route.

I also sleeved the tubing with ½" sch40 pipe, squished it with my hydraulic press to somewhat of an oval shape so it would have a flat spot where it mounts to the mounting plate. I took measurements of where the threaded holes were, drilled through the pipe and voila, it's done. The 3/8 bolts are just long enough that the threads stop probably 1/8" before touching the fender. I also made the holes line up with the holes that were already in the fender just in case I couldn't find bolts short enough..... :D

I also cut a relief down the length of the pipe right where the weld was. It was just too tight of a fit over the tubing.

PICT0007-5.jpg

PICT0005-4.jpg

PICT0004-6.jpg
 
Last edited:
My gut says it's going to flex into the wheel with a full can of gas and a little bouncing. If you can tie the bottom rear into the fender again you could stiffen it up enough to prevent that I think.

My gut also says the two screws holding it on isn't enough - the tube itself is going to wear out and fail there maybe. I have no solution to offer.

I agree with yoop's assessment and was going to say pretty much the same thing. The stock bracket is very beefy, and attaches to the holes in the fender on the left side and the right side AND where the rack attaches to the fender--it is very rigid, and it carries less than a gallon. A gallon of fuel on that tube will cause tube fail fairly soon, I would think, and would probably bend the fender before it failed. :frown:

Can you fab a tray that has arms that attach to the bottom of the rack, and extends behind it, above the tail light? Angle iron, with holes drilled in it, and U-bolts? With an edged tray attached to the arms that the can can sit in?
 
The bolt heads are gonna wear holes in your fuel can. :flipoff2:

I know. I need to either find different style bolts, or grind the heads down. This is just stuff I had in the garage. I still need to take it all apart and spray paint it. :doh:
 
I agree with yoop's assessment and was going to say pretty much the same thing. The stock bracket is very beefy, and attaches to the holes in the fender on the left side and the right side AND where the rack attaches to the fender--it is very rigid, and it carries less than a gallon. A gallon of fuel on that tube will cause tube fail fairly soon, I would think, and would probably bend the fender before it failed. :frown:

Can you fab a tray that has arms that attach to the bottom of the rack, and extends behind it, above the tail light? Angle iron, with holes drilled in it, and U-bolts? With an edged tray attached to the arms that the can can sit in?

If I had a small welder I could and would build something more extravagant. The only welder I have is an old 220v stick welder. I'm not good enough on it for the small welds it would take.

Remember, this mount is not set in stone. I can and will change it if I see the need. :D
 
If you have to build it, mount it to the rack would ya. Like the others have said, DON'T bolt it to the fender. It is not nearly strong enough. You could hang brackets down from the rack, and use the fender as a tie in to support the bracket, but you can't use the fender to support weight. You are asking for trouble in short order.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom