Crusier down!!! Need help

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rfj62

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Jul 7, 2007
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Well I did some extensive work on the Cruiser, basically fixed my own mistake, oil leak caused by over tightening the cam oiler, https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/181264-front-end-plate-gasket-leaking.html. Anyway got it all back together but now she won't start. It turns over but won't fire up. Here are the things I've done or no so far.

Battery good
Cranks good
Fouled the plugs trying to start so I replaced them (that means its getting fuel right?)
Wires and cap new within 300 miles (tested anyway and got the proper resistance)
Completed the spark test with shocking results, that one hurt a little bit.
New TPS within 300 miles (adjusted on the bench when I had it out)
The inspection of the ignition coil yielded some mixed results:
The Primary coils resistance was .9 ohms (call for .52-.64 ohms)
Secondary coil resistance within specs.

So do these results mean that the coil went bad?? Does a coil just go bad? Any other way to test before I buy a new one. Everything was working fine before I took it apart 2 weeks ago.

Any ideas???

Jeff
 
OOh, no trouble codes came up just the fast blinking, says everything is aok.
Also the first time I tried t start it and it wouldn't go I realixed that I forgot the hook up the distributor's electircal connection.
Picture 010.jpg
 
I'll try that, for some reason I thought they were a couple hundred, not $50, but I see that has 2 for under $45.
 
2 different ones, one $36 and the other $45. I'll try Advanced.
 
Of course no one has one is stock :bang: , will have to wait until Friday to get one unless NAPA comes through tommorow.
 
Here are the things I've done or no so far.......Completed the spark test with shocking results, that one hurt a little bit.
The inspection of the ignition coil yielded some mixed results:
The Primary coils resistance was .9 ohms (call for .52-.64 ohms)
Secondary coil resistance within specs.


Jeff

Jeff, Just wondering if you checked for sufficient spark at the coil wire and at the plugs. The coil should be able to jump about a 1/2 to 5/8" gap while cranking. Can you perform that test without getting bit again?

If your coil can't jump a large gap while cranking, it's probably not going to fire the plugs.

Rick
 
Rick, I only tested individual wires for the proper resistance not a with a spark. How long can I crank the engine without fouling the plugs, is it ok to just keep cranking the engine, for no more then 1 or 2 seconds at a time, without hurting anything? jeff
 
Jeff,
No you won't hurt the engine by cranking it for your test purposes.

If you think there's too much fuel in the cylinders, remove the plugs, disconnect the coil primary and crank the engine to pump out the excessive fuel. Do that untill you are sure it's clear and install the plugs after washing them with carb and or brake cleaner.

What it sounds like you need is proper spark at the proper time. Did you do anything that would affect timing?

After clearing fuel out of the cylinders, expose and hold a spark plug lead about 3/4" from a ground surface and have someone crank the engine. Your coil should be able to put out a spark that will jump across the large gap at atmospheric pressure.

Let us know what you find,

Rick
 
x2 on the timing. You removed and replaced the distributor, correct? When you reinstalled the distributor are you sure the engine was a TDC on the compression stroke for cylinder #1? The distributor is then installed with the rotor pointing to the #1 post on the distributor cap.
 
ignition timing

Hey, if anyone out there needs help setting your timing ass back wards, say 360 degrees, just let me know. :doh: So after adjusting the valves I must have forgotten to return the engine to TDC with the first cylinder, well just another one of my many mistakes, with I'm sure many more to come.
But now she fires right up. :bounce: I appreciate all of your advise and tips. thanks jeff
 
I did the same my first time :)
 

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